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Hello everyone, A while back I bought a couple of Xbox's 1.0 , 1.3 & a 1.6 . Fixed the first two up and running , now the last one turns on and off 3 times, then flashes red/green without video, previous owner says it had the error 06 but for me It doesn't give a video signal at all. A visual inspection of the board for any bulged capacitors shows no obvious faults, although I am aware that sometimes with an ESR meter (which i dont have) you can tell which is good and which is bad. I'm using a component cable and the V1.6 xbox is a PAL unit and the hard drive inside is definitely not stock 160GB storage and no hard mod is installed. A quick search gives me the idea that its probably the eeprom ( dead or corrupted ) if that is the case and assuming i have no backup as i do not know what the previous owner did to it, what should i do ? if not any ideas what should i check / do to troubleshoot the problem ? . I have a Rpi , arduino and an old eeprom universal flasher ( i will check if it supports the chips ). Oh and i have an Aladdin XT PLUS2 on hand if that would help , but kindly note that I have never used them before but if someone has a guide that would be appreciated as well. Best Regards SP

I have two Toshiba/Samsung drives that have bad lasers, I can only seem to find replacement lasers for Thomson drives available to buy online. Is there anywhere that sells lasers for the T/S drives, or are there lasers from other products that might be compatible? I saw someone online who replaced a Playstation 2 laser with one from a music CD player and it worked, not sure if something like that can be done with the Xbox drives?

I can't see it on Evox trainers list.. Basically I need to overcome a certain bug of the game that doesn't make you gain further skill points once you reach the top grade in career mode (not looking for a complete savegame or other cheats, just something that unlocks the stats).

I got a 1.6 Xbox off ebay today. Still works (minus the dvd drive, but I got several spare dvd drives), but the case is absolutely fucked in and out. After taking the controller ports out, I can't even put them back in - all but one of the posts for screws that hold the controller ports in are broken! I can only hold controller port 4 in with the intact post, all the other posts have big chunks broken off. Is there anything I could rig up to hold the rest of the controller ports down, or bolt it down, or should I just try to find an intact 1.6 case?

I just installed a 2TB SSD in my Xbox, as the previous HDD I had in it died. Once I got a dashboard installed (UnleashX 0.39.0528A), I started copying over my games. After 145 games, I started getting errors during FTP. When required, the FTP client would create subdirectories, but then trying to change in to the newly created sub directory would fail. All file uploads would fail as well. I've tried both FileZilla and WinSCP and both have the same problem. Here's the error from WinSCP: Dir already exists in cache! "/F/Games/<game name>/DATA": Directory not found. I deleted the cache volumes on the Xbox, but the error continues to happen. As it stands, I'm unable to upload anything else to the F volume. There's 708GB free on F, so disk space shouldn't be a problem. I also did a test using the File Manager app on the Xbox. I created a subdirectory in F:\Games and then copied a file from the E: over to the new subdirectory. The file doesn't show up in the subfolder. I did have the my games split between F and G before, but that was because of how the volumes were original configured and there wasn't enough space on a single volume. I should be able to fit everything on F, but this issue is stopping me from doing so. In case it matters, I'm using an M8Plus BIOS with LBA48 support which is patched for the XboxHD+. Both F and G are partitioned to about 972GB each.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFT1TPJ/?coliid=I34W0053FX96LE&colid=3BP1APT3T9SB8&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Hey Everyone, I used to have the official xbox component cable, but like a fool didn't understand their value until now. I just recently got back into xbox, purchased a system I'm working on repairing and modding, and I was able to locate a advance high definition AV pack with the component connections. just curious, is the breakout box better than the cable? or about they the same? Thanks! ~John

Got a 1.6 crystal in pretty great condition here with one serious problem - DVD drive (SDG-605) is dead, error 12. Tried swapping a known working DVD drive in and using exactly the same power+IDE cable+HDD it successfully boots to dash so it's definitely the SDG-605 causing the error. If anyone has any working DVD drives they are willing to part with, especially if they're in the UK, that would be great. Otherwise, it's going to be the eBay lottery, and I'm not feeling lucky.

Coming back to the ogxbox is great, but playing games that have inverted look/aim (opposite of modern games) in such a pain and just can't get used to it. Luckily most games have an option to swap but for the ones missing the option is there any way to patch the games? Thanks.

As we all know the Xcalibur encoder in the 1.6 Xbox, was Microshafts in-house built chip.. No public documentation or anything. I'm wanting to find bits and pieces of info that may be round from old dead forum threads, randome files etc.. Sadly I have no Reverse Engineering and little coding know how to be able to pick a newer Kernel apart, but I am thinking I may be able to dump some info from my 1.6 itself while it's running. So if anyone has any ideas please post here!!

After upgrading my xbox HDD, it not only boots and runs 10 times slower, but the DVD drive now doesn't read any disk I put into the disk drive even official xbox games. It just says unknown. Now I don't mind the system booting up slower, but not reading anything in the disk drive is a major problem. I followed this tutorial exactly (I used the exact parts and followed all steps)

New to the forum and to the topic in general. The console was given to me by a friend, it comes loaded with some version of Unleash X. I have been trying to connect via FTP to load more games (DVD reader is broken). Sadly i don't know the credentials and not finding any way inside the dashboard to go to the config.xml file to get them. I read about FATXplorer so I guess that if I don't find any alternative from inside. I can always just plug in and look for the file on my PC but I will like to avoid buying all the adapters just for a one time use. Couple of pics from the menus that I can access (In Spanish lol) https://ibb.co/XWMmkfn https://ibb.co/C8GHv9J https://ibb.co/kJ0y2tF

Is there any interest in CNC’d hardware? Specifically the long screws that hold the case together. I’m thinking of getting some made for a few of my units, and just wanted to gauge if there was any interest. Not looking to get rich but I’m hopping to get some others on board to bring down the unit costs to something reasonable. See the rough mockup below.

I swapped in a 1TB HDD replacing my original 10GB drive. Is there any reason to hold on to the old hard drive at this point or can I safely recycle it?

i had ordered a lpc rebuild board and it got here today. turns out the one i ordered is too small to fit a pin header in so i'd have to solder the chip directly to the board for this rebuild board to work. i don't want to order another one so i am strongly considering just using the wire method to rebuild the lpc. problem is that i really dislike the kind of fine soldering that i'd have to do if i use this method. any tips on how to do the wire method the easiest way?

i haven't seen any difference. is there any reason to use one over the other?

I purchased a second hand XBox from eBay. The console came with an Aladdin Advance mod-chip already installed. This chip looks different to other "Aladdin" chips in that it doesn't have the 12-pin female header. Where that socket is on other chips of this kind there is a unpolluted area labelled "FLASH". I don't think this console was ever used for anything else other than playing copied games, as it was running on the stock Dashboard, and still had the 8GB HDD installed. Even when the EvoX mode was initialised by holding the power button to turn on the chip, the console still booted to the stock Dashboard. To cut a long story short, I opened the console up to remove the clock capacitor, and give the console a general clean, and I accidental knocked off the wire going from L2 to the IDE socket, at the socket side. To be honest, the soldering was extremely bad, and looked like it had been done in a rush by someone who had very little idea of what they were doing. I promptly repaired the loosens wire, and as the soldering attaching the chip to the motherboard was a very bad job also, I decided to add some solder to the points to reinforce them a little. I personally don't like the 'quick-solder' pads much, but that's how this chip had been installed. And as I mentioned there is no header socket at all. However, on reassembling the console, it won't boot. Neither into EvoX mode or 'stock'. The way this chip was set up was to hold the power button to activate it. But that isn't working either. All that happens is the console powers on, then off, on again, and off a second time and when it powers on for the third time (all of this is automatically on it's own) the console doesn't display anything on screen (although I do hear a normal 'click' of the speakers when the power comes on) and the consoles LEDs are alternating red and green. Which, from what I read is a bad BIOS read. I don't understand why though, as I haven't done anything to the BIOS. I did load up Hexen 2018, and went into the flashing options, but I didn't actually do a flash, because I didn't know what the chip was at the time, I thought it best to see what I was going to flash to first. This also installed the EvolutonX Dashboard automatically, which did work okay at first. I really don't know what has happened, but I have now done some damage to the chip itself in trying to find some way of getting the console to boot. There is a surface mounted capacitor right next to the LPC labelled "C7D2", which I must have accidentally touched with the tip of my iron, as there is a little 'spike' of fresh solder on it. Is it plausible that I have damaged this capacitor, and that is what's causing the console to fail to boot? If so, can I bypass this capacitor, or replace it? As I said, with all of the soldering and desolating I have ruined most of the 'quick-solder' pads on the chip now. As such I have ordered an Aladdin XT PLUS2 from eBay, but it's coming from China, so it's not going to be here for a few weeks. But as the console doesn't boot at all, with or without the chip installed, I am wondering if a new chip would actually make a difference. Because I haven't mentioned it above; it's a 1.0 XBox. I have even tried completely removing the chip altogether, which is how the console is right now. Yet, it still refuses to do anything other than what I described above. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I really don't like the idea that I've killed the console. I could obtain another, sure, but I would like to try and repair this one if I can. I dislike giving up on things if there is still a chance I can fix it.

G'day all! i've recently got myself a soldering iron and am eager to TSOP my 1.1. I've not yet used the specific soldering iron (waiting for a practice kit to arrive in the mail) but i do have some experience with soldering so i generally know what i'm in for. The main issue is that the fear of messing something up and rendering the console useless is immense! I've barely used it as is so as to not wear out the hard drive, so it'd be a shame to have to bin it. What would be the correct method to join the required points. From many of the sources i've seen, the general strat (without using conductive ink or wire) seems to be apply solder to iron apply iron to points and move it around for no more than ~2 seconds pray that the points have been bridged is this correct? would it be a good idea to use flux on the points or would it not really do anything? Cheers!

Hi guys, newbie to the forum. I've just ordered an Xbox One X and am now looking at a few games to go with it. Keen to buy Skyrim and Forza Horzon 3 (interesting contrast I know). The local game store has a deal for 4 Xbox 360 games for $20. Skyrim and Forza Horizon 3 are included in the deal, while their Xbox One counterparts are triple the price. So my question is, is it worth paying extra for the Xbox One version vs the 360 versions considering they are both "Xbox X enhanced"? Hope that makes any sense. Thanks to anyone with any advice &/or knowledge on the subject. Cheers

The debug unit I'm waiting to receive (tracking shows it will probably get here Tuesday) has the potential to run any unsigned code without any softmodding or hardmodding is what I have been lead to believe, is this right? I can transfer over or boot from disc any .xbe, for example Rebellious Bullet an unreleased Japanese game that was discovered on a debug unit and uploaded to the internet? edit spelling and youtube link

Hey everyone, I purchased a original Xbox off eBay, it looks brand new, and hasn't been opened, all stickers intact. Only issue is when it powers on, red and green flashing led and a error code 12 on screen. Online suggests it's a DVD drive issue, bummer. It looks to be a Xbox 1.6 and has gotten very little use (if any at all, still has a brand new smell to it, spotless inside and out and not a spec of dust) is there anything I could try to fix the system? Could I try recapping the DVD drive board? I hate to buy another drive off eBay, as the only ones I found cost more than the system I got (including shipping), I have a mod chip on the way as well, if that might help Thanks in advance! ~John

Hello guys I am really stuck and broken 4 xboxes the last week with flashing wrong because i want to know where my problem is. My xbox has the aladdin xt plus 2 modchip in it and it work fine but... when i want to put a new drive in it it wont boot from disc(auto installer, hexen 17 and 19, rocky) The only disc it boots is slayer 2.7 The problem is with an other IDE or Sata drive no one boots up and slayer says the disk 0,0,0,0space The sata adapter is with the 2 capacitors and it has worked on a softmodded xbox with the same 2tb sata drive. I have tryed with different dvd drive, ide cables also the 80pin. Also tryed different bios files, m8, xecuter 2 the other brokes my chip. When i want to hotswap it the hdd clones the slave but when i want to boot it cant from drive or disc. So what is the problem and what can i try next? thanks for youre time.

I recently got a green xbox and want to sell my old black xbox. I want to remove the 500GB sotmodded hard drive and replace it with the original 8GB. I know how to do that but I want to be able to use the 500GB drive in my Green xbox - how do I do this? I don't mind formatting the 500GB drive and starting afresh. I have an IDE PC if that's any use. Any help greatly appreciated

I opened an xbox that I picked up at the weekend last night. There was a problem with the disk drive as it kept opening an closing and wouldn't read a disk when it was held closed while the disk was spinning. I suspected a faulty drive but when I opened it I found that it was absolutely filthy inside and that something had leaked - I have attached pics - I think it's a 1.6 so I don't know what is leaking or if it is repairable - any help greatly appreciated. Thanks

I picked up a particularly grotty and smelly xbox the other day - I bought it because I thought the case might be in mint condition underneath the layer of dirt and I was right. I washed the case with fairy liquid (dishwater detergent) and a microfibre cloth but although the plastic casing looks clean it isn't - I ran a baby wipe over a tiny section of the case and it was brown. Same result when I used a baby wipe on the inside of the case - brown residue inside the case as well. Is there any special paste I should make? Could I make a baking power and vinegar paste? The reason I'm reluctant to try these is I'm afraid I'll damage the case - any one any tips on how to get rid of the brown residue. Thanks in advance.