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Sooo..... chinese IDE 80 way cable to sata adapter (Master jumper available and enabled)... "aladdin advance" modchip with SST chip. 2TB drive yada yada... been working fine for years. with Evox Wanted Cerbios because... y'know - new toysnstuff.... Flashed the default 2.3.1 Beta - All working well - lovely stuff. Then... I thought I'd try the one with UDMA4 on the end. Now - no video output. At all. my TVs all say (no signal)... This is with component and with composite. Green lights come on on power on - flashing if I push the eject button to turn on. (I heard there was a "safe mode" udma2). But alas no video. Did my flash go bad? It seemed to complete the flash just fine in EvolutionX flasher for both the standard 2.3.1 Beta, and for the "UDMA4" version. But dead now. Any ideas? zero cost option I guess is remove the modchip and TSOP flash (I think it's a 1.4 board definitely not 1.6)? Or try to get a disc to load hexen 2021??? the DVD drive seems to try to open (I can force it with the little pokey hole thing - the eject rubber band is dry)... Or do I have to buy a chip flasher... wanna avoid money spend if possible! lol! Thanks folks!

I live in the USA and need a few PAL power supplies for any model besides 1.6, I'd take 1 but would buy up to 3 if you have them available. Let me know if you can help!

I want to change the hdd of my xbox with an ssd, because the optical drive is not working, but I know that I need the EEPROM to trick the xbox into thinking that the ssd is its original drive, but I dont really know how to do it without installing a custom firmware on the hdd and then be able to use an FTP to get it (the stock firmware doesn't allow the xbox to connect to a pc via ethernet). Then the only other way to do that is "hotswapping" but it requires an old computer with IDE connections but it's a bit difficult to find one. so if there is another way of doing this,let me know to try it Thank you in advance

Ok so a few years back I attempted to flash this and killed it somehow, that's all I can remember, I do recall trying a few things at the time to revive it but no luck, luckily the consoles HD was stock so I removed the chip and TSOP'd, the switchbank is still stuck to a faceplate and it even has the x3 holographic sticker Also the D0/LAN/HDD wire is present but not pictured (I found it after I took the pics) NOTE: THIS IS NOT WORKING - IT MAY / MAY NOT BE FIXABLE!

I've tried to boot with a newly formatted 2TB SATA HDD, and have been having issues... Cerbios Hybrid 2.3.1 UDMA5: Stays on the Boot Animation. M8Plus Titan & Stock (TSOP): Error 21. XBlastOS: Black screen, jumps back into XeniumOS The chip has XeniumOS 2.3.5. The drive has been formatted with FatXplorer using the Cerbios preset, and is unlocked. The only data on the HDD is the default C:\ contents from the XBOXHDM build of Rocky5's installer along with cerbios.ini and the BootAnims folder. I used CerbiosTool to generate the ini and have set "DashPath1" to "C:\xboxdash.xbe" and "DriveSetup" to 1 (No HDD, Legacy), with everything else being "stock". Does anyone know what could be the problem? UPDATE: Turns out it was an issue with using Rocky5's softmod files on a hardmod. I fixed this by just copying Rocky5's UnleashX build from xbins onto the C:\ partition.

I'm looking for a BAT file that takes .mp3 files from ResurrectionXtras's PC Engine CD romset and converts them to .wav format, the reason behind this is MednafenX-PCE doesn't get along with .mp3 files while emulating PCE-CD ROMS, what I mean by that is while in game the emulator plays through the first music or sound file in the folder for a few seconds then cuts to the next .mp3 file and basically do this all the time for every game and their respective mp3 files. If there isn't any bat file available to download, I would appreciate an easy and quick way to convert those files and edit the cue files by myself.

Hello where can i find xbox isos, i know vimm.net but it's it any other good sites out there.

I'm looking for something that can stress an Xbox a bit and that I can leave running for stability testing. Can anyone suggest a game with rendered scenes that loop or maybe an app that's made for this?

Opened up the Xbox to fix some trace corrosion. When I put everything back in and booted up, none of my controllers were working. Iv double checked the daughter board several times. Everything is plugged in correctly. On boot up it launches the clock and none of my controllers work in any of the slots. I found out I was atleast getting power through the controller port because when I plugged in my Wingman XB2 it lights up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So my xbox was working fine. I thought there was a wire getting hit by the fan so i opened it up and unplugged the hard drive to see if i could see anything. I didnt so i plugged the hard drive back in and now i cant get the xbox to boot. it just goes to a black screen. the light on the front stays green but its just a black screen. My xbox is hard modded with a xenium chip and xbox HD+. i can boot into the xenium menu and ftp into the console but i can only see "C" and E" folders. i did make sure the cable to the HDD was plugged in all the way.

on one of my hard modded xbox's, i have a 3tb sata3 seagate drive. it has almost every xbox game ever made and some extra stuff too. i have the dashboard set for xbmc4gamers and fast parsing but it loads so slow. i have found that to be the fastest dashboard though. on my softmodded xbox, i upgraded the drive to a 300gb ide seagate drive and the same ide cable. i only have mostly the games that are available with insignia right now plus a few others and it loads to the unleashX dashboard. it loads SOO much faster, even with that old slow ide hdd in it, that i am tempted to use it instead of my hard modded system with all the extra's on it. is there anyway to speed up my hard modded xbox without deleting a bunch of games? i have another hardmodded xbox with a 2tb wd black 7200rpm drive and it only loads 4 seconds quicker(i timed it several time) so a faster harddrive wouldn't help much.

Bought a XBox with SmartXX v2 some days ago and it had a to me unknow rebuild soldered in : Pictures Anyone ( @KaosEngineer ) has any info on that board or can tell my it is so different?

I'm considering getting a mod chip for my Xbox, but I'm concerned with soldering as I've only had one prior experience and I fried out the ps2 I worked on installing it. Looking for something that's beginner friendly. Thank you.

tomorrow I will install the ogxbox installer and everything is new to me about og xbox and I don't know what applications are cool and what they can be useful to me

I cant see anything in the file explorer and FTP doesn't work either. I tried to load a Bios from a usb but it file explorer is still empty.

Hi guys TLDR: - My xbox's Samsung disc drive no longer works, already tried the usual things. - Am I using the correct replacement laser? - have I overlooked anything for optical drive repair? - Can I still mod my xbox with an OpenXenium chip + can I properly upgrade the hard drive without ever needing the disc drive again (eg for running Hexen or OGXbox installation Disc, or can I use another way to properly set up a 2tb hard drive I've got for the planned upgrade). ________________________ Full version. Hi guys. I've got a stock OG PAL Xbox (v1.1?) that doesn't read any kind of discs anymore. I found this out 3 weeks ago when I took my xbox out for the first time after a few months. It doesn't ever give disc errors. It does not have any hard or soft mods applied yet, but I've got an openxenium chip on hand ready for when I eventually get to modding (also have a 2tb Seagate Barracuda drive set aside as an upgrade). I'll add that I've already removed the clock capacitor almost 2 years ago when I bought the xbox and had zero associated issues. I usually run my xbox via RGB scart on my CRT, and it previously ran without any problems. My OG xbox has a Samsung drive: SDG-605 version B, and originally has a SOH-D16 laser. I initially tried the usual stuff and none of it worked : - cleaned the laser lens - tried lowering the DVD Potentiometer resistance through various ranges (1800ohms from factory, lowered down to 830ohms testing every 100 or so Ohms) - checked the lubricants and deep cleaned the console for any dust/debris. - Eject button and disc tray works fine. I can't find any spare optical drive replacements in the UK currently, so I opted to replace the laser assembly. I purchased the replacement from AliExpress, though the laser model number I received was actually SOH-DR16S, rather than the SOH-D16. The listing stated it was for SOH-D16, but I received the SOH-DR16S instead (I can't seem to find any of the former anywhere). I couldn't find any confirming information about whether these laser assemblies are completely cross compatible in my DVD drive (but all the connector assemblies and ribbon connectors seem to fit perfectly fine). I also followed Bahamutfan64's reddit post and the linked guide to try and prepare the laser for best compatibility*: - swapped the white houseing onto the new laser - desoldered the static protection/storage solder bridges for both potentiometers (and tried my best to minimise static discharge risk when working with the lasers after the safety bridges were removed) - reassembled the laser assembly into the Samsung drive and removed the blue lens protection film - cleaned the lens with 99% IPA to remove any residue from the protective film. - recorded both potentiometers' factory resistances. The CD pot was 800ohms from factory, whilst the DVD pot's factory was 2010ohms. These values failed to boot any of my games or CDs. - I then gradually tweaked and tested my DVD pot down to about 1240ohms, testing at roughly every 100ohm intervals, and still couldn't boot into any of my games. I'm not sure if I should go all the way down to 800ohms onnthe DVD pot on a "brand new" laser. Here's how the Xbox mostly seemed to usually behave with the new laser (and even with the old laser with Pot tweaks): with the game disc inside, the eject button would keep flashing. At the same time the optical drive motor would try a few short bursts of spinning the disc, followed by a longer spin. After this longer spin it gives up reading the disc and the eject button stops flashing. I don't know if this is a sign of the optical drive's spindle motor failing, but I think it may be unlikely. I don't get any error messages, and the xbox simply remains in the green home menu screen (even last year when I had occasional failed disc reads, I would never receive error messages). I tried a range of different known working games and CDs to no success. I want some help and was wondering where to go from here. I have a few questions: Is there any way of telling whether the optical drive's PCB is gone? There aren't any obvious signs such as leaky caps or burnt componenents. I don't own an oscilloscope or any really seriously fancy equipment. The ribbon cables are all intact and I've even tried cleaning all of their contacts and reseating. All the necessary moving parts/gears appear/feel lubricated (doesn't appear overlubed) and the laser's worm gear/motor seems to be working fine. The eject/disc tray motor and associated parts also seem to be working. Is my replacement laser assembly actually compatible? I actually tried ordering 2 laser assemblies, sadly I received SOH-DR16S and not SOH-D16. Would these differences in lasers even matter for my Samsung Drive? They both appear identical. As far as I know, I believe an SOH-D16 can be used in place of a SOH-DR16S, but not sure if it works the other way around for my specific context. Would it be worth me trying the second brand new SOH-DR16S laser as well? I have no way if telling if these new lasers were dead on arrival. If I fail with disc drive repair, could I still successfully install the openxenium chip without ever needing the disc drive? Is it possible to run the OG xbox without an optical drive ever again and still get the key modchip benefits? Ie changing the bios/nand file, upgrading to a 2tb hard drive from stock (and boot my backups from this drive). I know that the Hexen disc/OGXBox installation disc would still require an optical drive, but could I still run these (or at least their features) without an optical disc drive? Is Hexen/OGXbox install disc even necessary in my setup is using OpenXenium? Ideally I'd like to avoid grabbing a second xbox just to salvage a working DVD drive that will likely fail soon anyway. I'm also aware with a modchip I can grab a PC dvd drive to play CD/DVD/burned media if absolutely needed (sadly I don't have one of these to hand, and I won't ever be able to use this to boot my original discs). Sorry for the long post, I wanted to include as much detail as possible including everything I've already tried and considered. *Guides I followed for laser replacement: https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/comments/phuhy3/samsung_sohdr16_laser_replacement/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share http://fillwithcoolblogname.blogspot.com/2011/02/xbox-dvd-laser-replacement.html?m=1

Hello I'm just in the process of dusting off my Green Halo edition OG xbox, that I modded years ago. Had a problem with the hdd, formatted it (with a release of slayers) and never got around to finishing the job. There it sat for 10? years and I am now in the process of sorting it out. I dont remember what chip I put in, but I do recall it has connectiopn to the power and eject buttons. When I press the power button, the dashboard comes up (cant remember which one), and when I press the eject button, I get a boot error screen... wall of text.... I remember that it will boot differently depending on which button you use, but I dont recall what it was. So, to get to the point, is there any reason I should lock the hdd? 120gb ide... Does the MS dashboard require it to be locked? I recall I had the p[rescense of mind to unlock the drive before I worked on it way back when, but dont recall why I locked it in the first place...

Going to upgrading from base HDD at some point, but didn't want to start with SATA drives right out of the gate. Wanted to use otherwise dormant IDE drives out in the wild, & was wondering exactly HOW one would know if a IDE Hard drive supports locking for softmod Xboxes.

Hey guys, I've got a 1.2 that I spent the weekend revitalizing with all new fresh capacitors and upgrading the RAM to 128mb. Everything went well. I had Xblast reading all 128mb, and everything was working a treat. That is until I went to pull it apart for final disassembly to clean the case and everything up before putting all back together for the last time. I first removed the SATA/IDE adapter from the HDD, leaving the molex connector in place and holding it by the cables and moved the HDD tray out of the way. It was then, that I somehow managed to let the SATA/IDE adapter dangle enough for it to brush the PSU right along side the big 470uF 250v capacitor without realizing it. And in my excited haste, I had not yet disconnected the power cord from the Xbox... As soon as I saw the bright flash and pop that was the SATA adapter getting completely obliterated, my heart immediately sank. The adapter, of course, is thoroughly destroyed. The logic IC and one of the voltage regulators quite literally exploded. At that point, I knew I'd be extremely lucky if it was the only casualty. On the Xbox itself, it blew the T3.15A on the PSU. I had some spare 3 amp glass slow-blow fuses, so I rigged one up until I get the proper cylindrical fuse to replace it later this week. Surprisingly enough, the PSU still works fine, albeit with a slight discolored battle scar on side of the big capacitor... However the motherboard is a different story. It now 3 boot/FRAGs both with or without the X2.3b lite I've had installed for years present. Thinking I had fried it, not feeling too optimistic about fixing it, I harvested the newly installed RAM, and original RAM but subsequently reinstalled the original, after changing my mind on giving up so quickly. Anyway, I've tried all the troubleshooting methods I could with what tools I have at my disposal, which is not much. All the PSU voltages are good. I've swapped PSUs with another, just in case. One observation I made is that the MCPX X3 gets really hot very quickly, so I'm sort of thinking it's shorted and therefore also toast, and that's what's causing it to FRAG. In any case, I figured, maybe I'd share my story for your entertainment, and maybe even see if any of you had any suggestions on what else I might try to test before I go on the hunt for a replacement board and continue scavenging useful parts from this one.

I bought a 1.6 xbox with plans to modchip it. The first time I booted it I got a FRAG, then after turning it off and on it was fine. I tried booting a few times and everything worked, so I chalked the first frag up to disuse for years. I opened the xbox to clean it in preperation for the modchip, make sure caps were fine and all. The metal shield was pretty rusty so following some advise from other posts here I sanded it and painted it with Rustoleum. Other than that, I didn't do anything to the rest of the box. Since putting it back together it FRAGs every boot. Did I cover a grounding connection and need to clear that? Unsure of what move to make. Here are some shots of the board. https://imgur.com/a/iuc8fc1

Looking for X3 chips, Control Panels, etc. Plus, if itˋs new in the package and unopened. If the planets align, that is.

I mean I can play the game, but I can only select one game mode, and if I get hit even with 1 single punch its KO for me. And also there is a title in the upper corner that I am not using an original copy of the game. I downloaded many different version and all of them had this copy protection. I downloaded the first PS2 ROM put it to my PS3 and that one doesn't have the copy protection enabled, but still an unoriginal copy. Is there any way to patch out copy protection from Fight Club?

I don't remember if its an old problem or not, but what I did recently is I soldered on the Aladdin xt2 chip the "BT" to be always on, and its working fine I mean I can play games, responsive and everything, but I can't turn it off, and it starts right away as soon as I plug it into the wall. With the EvoX dash I could manually turn it off, but then I could not turn it on. The button is green, so its not the button. And its an Xbox 1.6 so theorietically the clock capacitor couldn't leak out onto the motherboard and corrode a trace. Also, I found no corrosion on traces, but I only checked the upper side of the motherboard, I dont really know whats on the other side. Any idea? Thanks By the way this is what I did with the aladdin:

Hello everyone, A while back I bought a couple of Xbox's 1.0 , 1.3 & a 1.6 . Fixed the first two up and running , now the last one turns on and off 3 times, then flashes red/green without video, previous owner says it had the error 06 but for me It doesn't give a video signal at all. A visual inspection of the board for any bulged capacitors shows no obvious faults, although I am aware that sometimes with an ESR meter (which i dont have) you can tell which is good and which is bad. I'm using a component cable and the V1.6 xbox is a PAL unit and the hard drive inside is definitely not stock 160GB storage and no hard mod is installed. A quick search gives me the idea that its probably the eeprom ( dead or corrupted ) if that is the case and assuming i have no backup as i do not know what the previous owner did to it, what should i do ? if not any ideas what should i check / do to troubleshoot the problem ? . I have a Rpi , arduino and an old eeprom universal flasher ( i will check if it supports the chips ). Oh and i have an Aladdin XT PLUS2 on hand if that would help , but kindly note that I have never used them before but if someone has a guide that would be appreciated as well. Best Regards SP