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Long time reader first time poster! Sorry to start in this way but I'm completely lost and if possible I need your help all... First disclaimer, before the attempt on both console to install the modchip everything works fine (stock console no softmod or other modchip). As per the title I've installed the same Aladin XT Plus 2 (pick-up from AliX) but at the end (after the first boot) both console start to have the same issue as per below : Tries to Boot 3x then FRAG (Christmas Lights) Usually due to a failed or improperly installed modchip or the IDE cable being plugged in upside down somewhere. Check modchip wiring and IDE cables. If you did not do any soldering, it could be a bad PSU. - On both console I've already removed all the wires for the Aladin (beside the connector on the MB) - Cleaned everything with isopropyl alcohol - Replaced the power supply - Recaps (Done only on the 1.0) - Searched on the motherboard for broken component or any other strange visual sign of issue Is clear that the Aladin I've is faulty but what I can try now to revive those two console? Thanks!

So I want to build my ultimate XBOX, I already managed to get my hands on a 14.ghz 128 mb ram xbox (1.4 revision), planning to install stellar. But I also want to put it in a nice case. Luckily I can get my hands on a crystal xbox fairly cheap. But this is a 1.6 revision. I know there are issues putting a 1.6 in a 1.0-1.4 case with grounding, how about the other way around? And is there a fix for the grounding issue? Reason I’m asking is that I would probably put the 1.6 board in the 1.4 case to recoup some of my money. I briefly considered putting in a modchip, but sadly the marked for modded xbox in NL is rather slim. With chip, hdd, sata2ide connector and IDE cable I wouldn’t be able to recoup my money

Please help I cannot flash this XBOX I have tinted both point but when I try to flash with HEXEN2020 it says MODCHIP NOT SUPPORTED i have tried to test it by flashing a non windbond/sharp option and it says that the chip is flashable I have very little equipment so using the HEXEN CD is my only option at this point

Was given a few broken xboxes. The one im having trouble with is a 1.4. No power at all. History: was told they replaced the power supply on this one and "something blew up". I see absolutely no signs of anything blowing up. What i have tried: another known working power supply. Another case (incase power button was problem). Changed all the caps to new ones although they looked to be in like new shape. Checked bottom for tracerot from clock cap (which was already removed). Looked over whole board for any previous work (none everything is stock except clock cap was removed). I don't want to give up on it. It is the best looking one of the three I was given. Just not sure what to check or change. I haven't removed the heatsinks to check gpu and cpu. Any input from anyone would be great. I have a multimeter and can check things as suggested. Thanks in advance.

XBOX 1.4 board, ST bios chip. Bridged the usual two points. HDD was dead, so installed Jafar chip and tried to lock another HDD but failed. So booted IND bios from Jafar, run Hexen 2021 and tried to flash onboard bios. It seemed to work but when rebooted the console it still had the stock bios. Tried another HDD which managed to lock to the board using Xblast by booting from Jafar, booted Hexen disc from the soft modded HDD and tried to flash bios but gets stuck trying to erase the bios and nothing happens. Rebooted, then ran xblast OS from the hexen disc and tried Net Flash but again gets stuck. Redid the two boints on the board and re-checked, they're defenitly bridged. At this point I'm at a loss to why it won't flash the bios. Board has some signs of corresion.

There's a few games not working on faster cpu. Does anyone know how to get Return to Castle Wolfenstein (NTSC) to run with a faster cpu ? (1 ghz, 1.4 ghz) ? On startup it dIsplays the first copyright screen and then it freezes just before loading the ESRB notice. HDD spins down to low activity. Same result happens if I use xbepatcher on the default.xbe. On my stock xbox this game runs just fine.

I have a 1.0 model xbox with a faulty 3rd party PSU installed by a previous owner, I also have a 1.4 with a bad video out port that I use as a parts console. I was wondering if there is anywhere I could buy a 1.4 PSU to 1.0 PSU adapter so I can swap the 1.4 PSU in, or if there is a pinout diagram so I can do the pin swap myself. Thanks

Hi! I got an xbox 1.4 in Coma(black screen without sound),with modchip it works only with Cromwell, XBlast or iND-Bios(loading screen), but doesn’t recognize HDD... I’ve another two 1.4 scrap, one has dead GPU and another Fragged(stock / maybe trace corrosion)... Any repair suggestion? Thanks in advance!

Hi, I have a problem with starting XBOX. When I press power, nothing happens, only a hissing sound and a "knock" emanating from the console, as if from the power supply, (something like the console board wanted to turn on but could not). No picture and no errors led on the console. Please advise what can cause this, I will add that the 1.4 board is in very good condition, there are no loose capacitors, the paths are intact and in very good condition. The power supply is checked and working. I changed the console TSOP, ver ind-bios 5003 and it worked for 2 weeks without any problems. Please help.

I gave my friend a 1.4 crystal case I got in a bundle of Xboxes online, I forgot to tell him about needing to remove the metal shielding from a pin. Because of that, it would not boot or show any signs of power even when he put the board back in the old case. This case was completely empty so he did use the 1.6 power supply which is also important about not mixing them. There's this one particular transistor on the standby rail on the 1.6 motherboards that can fail. I have swapped this and it is working again

As the title says i'm after a full cap replacement kit for a 1.4 Xbox. Looking for a UK seller to avoid humongous shipping charges. Looking to replace the caps on the MB and power supply board. This box will be my 2022 Ultimate Xbox build with Cerbios, Huge HDD, Xbox HDMI+ and whatever else I deem fit to add Any ideas anyone? The only place I have found so far is Console5 in the US and the shipping to the UKis $40 at its cheapest. That's a lot for a tiny parcel of caps.

Hi all. Soldered the points required. Ran Bios Checker v5, saw the Winbond. Using Resctoox to flash the bios, when it locked up. It locked up before I even saw the bar. My Xbox will boot, but now the Bios Checker says unknown mod chip ect. I pulled the board as I thought maybe my solder skills weren't what I thought they were. I was able to check continuity on both sides of the and got tone from both sets. Any thoughts at all? This box is softmodded. Ready to pull my hair out. Thanks for any input

I saw on reddit that they recommended a Taiyo yuden or Nichicon 1F 2.5V, but it seems these are now out of production.

Hi everyone - I just successfully finished my XBOX HDMI+ install with open xenium. I was able to get the patched bios working following these instructions: https://github.com/MakeMHz/xbox-hd-plus/blob/master/patches/README.md#xbox-kernel-patches-kpatch---xboxhd My only issue is in-game reset lo longer works? Does anyone know a solve to this? Is it possible for me to patch my new bios with LBA48 v3 to restore this function?

Hi folks, A friend pointed me in your direction, and I hope you can shed some light of this issue. I picked up an immaculate Xbox today, boxed, sealed manual, still had the plastic over the eject and power buttons, not a mark on the case I played some OutRun2 and Dead or Alive 3, no issues. I then decided to “stress test” and run a game for half an hour, and chose Halo 2, letting it sit in its promo/demo loop. After around 35 mins, the game froze. I ejected the disc, returned to the dash, and reloaded the disc … nothing. The green light around eject just flashes, but there’s no action from the drive other than 3 whirs then nothing. Tonight I took the console apart, and it’s immaculate inside. No leaks, no dust, no bulging caps, not even a spec of dust on the fan … I doubt this console has seen much use, which is what makes this issue even harder to understand. When I had the lid off the drive, I tried to load a game, OutRun2 … but the behaviour is the same for any disc. The lens moves to the top of the track and back 3 times, and each time it returns to its “home” position next to the disc spindle, the spindle tries to turn and moves, if it’s lucky, a centimetre or two. It does this 3 times, then nothing. I don’t get any disc read errors, because the disc doesn’t seem to spin up. The drive, like the rest of the system, is very clean but it just stopped working so suddenly. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. I don’t want to return this to CEX for them to scrap it, especially given it’s condition, so I want to try and save it. If the drive is toast, as I suspect it may well be, what are my options in terms of modding without a working disc drive? Thanks all. Edit: I have uploaded a video of the drive in action, here:

Hi I recently got a non working crystal xbox(1.6) for cheap, I already have a tsop 1.4 and was wondering if I can put all it's components(mobo,psu, dvd etc) into the crystal case.

I believe its a Digital Signal problem, Console is set to NTSC-U due to Modding reasons Don't think it makes a difference in pal Anyway, Connecting the simple RGB connections its fine, No green tint/hue. Once a Digital Signal is being out putted it has a Green Hue, This can be via component cable to HDMI. Its currently flashed with IND Bios, Its a 1.4 Motherboard and is TSOP not chipped. Any help is appreciated.

I am repairing xbox 1.4 for a friend. His box is having power supply issue. There is not enough volt to run the hard drive. I used external 12v/ 5v source to power the hard drive and the system boots up fine. The dvd disk drive is also working fine as it is connected to the xbox power supply. I took the xbox power supply out and didn't notice any bad caps or bad solder joints. With everything connected and powered up ,except for the power to the hard drive I get the following voltage values. Orange = 3.3V, Blue = 3.3V, Brown =3.3V, Red = 4.48V, and Yellow = 10.5V. I tried adjust the pot and that is max i can get for red and yellow wires. Which caps do I need replace for these two voltages ? or is there something else i can check? Thanks.

Hi - having gotten the xbox original bug recently I have acquired a few original xbox consoles from friends and colleagues. I have a 1.0 that has a fan on the GPU so it's pretty noisey. I have a 1.6 and that can't be Tspoped and I don't have the skills required to add a chip. Today, a colleague gave me an xbox 1.1 - I opened it and checked to see if there was a fan on the GPU and there isn't - which is good in terms of noise. This also means that I can TSOP the 1.1. I have 3 or 4 more lying around in my attic that I collected over the years at car boot sales (mainly to get the games that came with them in bundle packs) - is there a particular model that I should look out for like the 1.1 seems to have the best of everything for me right now or am I wrong? Which version do you think is the best and why? Thanks in advance.

Hello a couple of days ago I was testing my newly built component cables (Before using them I tested everything with a multimeter and nothing was shorting and I was able to play with them and they looked great since I used shielded 360 cables so I don't think that the cable is the problem) on my Xbox and it was working perfectly fine, I restarted it a couple of times and I didn't have a single problem, today I tried to play again and I got stuck on the iND-Bios splash screen with the light blinking red and green with no change, it just gets stuck there. My Xbox is tsoped and I have installed a 320 Samsung hard drive with an IDE to SATA adapter and an 80 wires IDE cable (Properly insulated), the DVD drive mechanism is not in the best condition since it needs help to eject or insert itself sometimes but it reads discs perfectly fine when they get inside, I tried booting tru Hexen 2019 and the console kept ejecting it, I'm not sure if this is related to the bios stuck problem or the disc drive itself (I didn't have the need to use it for the last half of the year since the HDD was working perfectly fine and I didn't do any major changes to the dashboard/bios). Aside from that it was working without any problems and I didn't change any configs, I just played DOA 3 and Crazy Taxi 3. Now the console just doesn't turn on, I press the power button or eject and the fan spins one time and nothing happens. Video: https://i.imgur.com/aRyVI25.mp4 And i went ahead and took pictures of the motherboard: Motherboard Top: https://imgur.com/a/juHHvXq Motherboard Bottom: https://imgur.com/a/x7QU5BH Capacitors close up: https://imgur.com/a/rtsa2IR None of them seem to be bulging or leaking, and the clock cap is a Nichicon cap (the golden ones) and it looks perfectly fine, the console was retaining the date without problems. Motherboard Sides: https://imgur.com/a/xBjawQV Power Suply: https://imgur.com/a/MsmdA9w Same deal here, all the caps seem to be fine, no leaking or bulging. So i'm not sure what else to check, any advice? Thanks for your time, and let me know if I need to provide more info. Apologies for my grammar errors, English is not my first language.

Hi guys, So a close friend's og xbox had a loud pop and smoke when he plugged it in last month so I decided to give him a spare 1.4 that I TSOPed, put in a 2TB with all necessary parts. He purchased a Hyperkin HDMI and for some reason the there seems to be interference/noise (see pics) on the 1.4 but not on my 1.1. Composite is fine on both. All the settings are the same on both og xboxes. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance...

Equipment Softmodded 1.4 XBOX, clock capacitor removed, EEPROM snagged Hello everyone this my first post! I have gotten my hands on a FRAG 1.4 XBOX, now where this unit differs from any of the traditional FRAG symptoms Is that if you leave the system unplugged over night you are guaranteed to get video and audio on the first startup, Sometimes it successfully boots into the softmod and freezes after 10-120 seconds once you reboot it refuses to go beyond the FRAG loop( i have even successfully booted a original game from the softmod menu froze after a while), on other occasions it hangs during the start up animation and you get awful audio static, reboot the system and you are stuck in the FRAG loop for the day. Anyone ever encountered a unit with these symptoms? I'm thinking this unit might not be fubar, I changed the cooling paste on the GPU and CPU didn't do anything. Just asking around before I go shotgunning and randomly replacing capacitors, any specific ones which tend to go bad?

Hi! I have a topic to start. I'm already happy with my og Xbox upgraded with another 64mb of ram, but I would love to have it modded with 1.4 Ghz Tualatin. My console inside is 1.0 revision motherboard and was manufactured in Hungary, it is also modded with dual tsop and xblast. Do you know if somebody is still doing that upgrade? I've already PM'd to N64 freak but I'am waiting for his reply, so meanwhile when I am waiting for that reply I decided to find out if there is someone else for that job besides of that, I've read that he is only doing 1 Ghz, not 1.4 Ghz anymore - but I already have two proper tualatins so maybe I'll convince him. The only other person I know that was doing this is Trusty but I don't know where could I contact him. My soldering skills are very little, that is why I'm looking for somebody.

Strange I am unable to read burnt discs with Phillips DVD drv on the 1.4 but originals boot fine. No issues with Issues with Phillips DVD drv on 1.1. Do I have to apply a patch to DVD drv? If no I will try another DVD-R burner on slowest speed. Thanks in advance.

Tried to solder the pads for a 1.4 and ended up removing a solder pad. When I try flash it just gets stuck at erasing the 0 percent shows. My solder skills aren't the greatest so I'm not surprised. I've since got some conductive paint/glue and tsop flashed a 1.1 successfully. Is there any other way I can manage to tsop flash this Xbox even though the pads gone?