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I gave my friend a 1.4 crystal case I got in a bundle of Xboxes online, I forgot to tell him about needing to remove the metal shielding from a pin. Because of that, it would not boot or show any signs of power even when he put the board back in the old case. This case was completely empty so he did use the 1.6 power supply which is also important about not mixing them. There's this one particular transistor on the standby rail on the 1.6 motherboards that can fail. I have swapped this and it is working again

There's a few games not working on faster cpu. Does anyone know how to get Return to Castle Wolfenstein (NTSC) to run with a faster cpu ? (1 ghz, 1.4 ghz) ? On startup it dIsplays the first copyright screen and then it freezes just before loading the ESRB notice. HDD spins down to low activity. Same result happens if I use xbepatcher on the default.xbe. On my stock xbox this game runs just fine.

As the title says i'm after a full cap replacement kit for a 1.4 Xbox. Looking for a UK seller to avoid humongous shipping charges. Looking to replace the caps on the MB and power supply board. This box will be my 2022 Ultimate Xbox build with Cerbios, Huge HDD, Xbox HDMI+ and whatever else I deem fit to add Any ideas anyone? The only place I have found so far is Console5 in the US and the shipping to the UKis $40 at its cheapest. That's a lot for a tiny parcel of caps.

Hi all. Soldered the points required. Ran Bios Checker v5, saw the Winbond. Using Resctoox to flash the bios, when it locked up. It locked up before I even saw the bar. My Xbox will boot, but now the Bios Checker says unknown mod chip ect. I pulled the board as I thought maybe my solder skills weren't what I thought they were. I was able to check continuity on both sides of the and got tone from both sets. Any thoughts at all? This box is softmodded. Ready to pull my hair out. Thanks for any input

Please help I cannot flash this XBOX I have tinted both point but when I try to flash with HEXEN2020 it says MODCHIP NOT SUPPORTED i have tried to test it by flashing a non windbond/sharp option and it says that the chip is flashable I have very little equipment so using the HEXEN CD is my only option at this point

I saw on reddit that they recommended a Taiyo yuden or Nichicon 1F 2.5V, but it seems these are now out of production.

Hi everyone - I just successfully finished my XBOX HDMI+ install with open xenium. I was able to get the patched bios working following these instructions: https://github.com/MakeMHz/xbox-hd-plus/blob/master/patches/README.md#xbox-kernel-patches-kpatch---xboxhd My only issue is in-game reset lo longer works? Does anyone know a solve to this? Is it possible for me to patch my new bios with LBA48 v3 to restore this function?

Hi folks, A friend pointed me in your direction, and I hope you can shed some light of this issue. I picked up an immaculate Xbox today, boxed, sealed manual, still had the plastic over the eject and power buttons, not a mark on the case I played some OutRun2 and Dead or Alive 3, no issues. I then decided to “stress test” and run a game for half an hour, and chose Halo 2, letting it sit in its promo/demo loop. After around 35 mins, the game froze. I ejected the disc, returned to the dash, and reloaded the disc … nothing. The green light around eject just flashes, but there’s no action from the drive other than 3 whirs then nothing. Tonight I took the console apart, and it’s immaculate inside. No leaks, no dust, no bulging caps, not even a spec of dust on the fan … I doubt this console has seen much use, which is what makes this issue even harder to understand. When I had the lid off the drive, I tried to load a game, OutRun2 … but the behaviour is the same for any disc. The lens moves to the top of the track and back 3 times, and each time it returns to its “home” position next to the disc spindle, the spindle tries to turn and moves, if it’s lucky, a centimetre or two. It does this 3 times, then nothing. I don’t get any disc read errors, because the disc doesn’t seem to spin up. The drive, like the rest of the system, is very clean but it just stopped working so suddenly. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. I don’t want to return this to CEX for them to scrap it, especially given it’s condition, so I want to try and save it. If the drive is toast, as I suspect it may well be, what are my options in terms of modding without a working disc drive? Thanks all. Edit: I have uploaded a video of the drive in action, here:

Hi I recently got a non working crystal xbox(1.6) for cheap, I already have a tsop 1.4 and was wondering if I can put all it's components(mobo,psu, dvd etc) into the crystal case.

I believe its a Digital Signal problem, Console is set to NTSC-U due to Modding reasons Don't think it makes a difference in pal Anyway, Connecting the simple RGB connections its fine, No green tint/hue. Once a Digital Signal is being out putted it has a Green Hue, This can be via component cable to HDMI. Its currently flashed with IND Bios, Its a 1.4 Motherboard and is TSOP not chipped. Any help is appreciated.

I am repairing xbox 1.4 for a friend. His box is having power supply issue. There is not enough volt to run the hard drive. I used external 12v/ 5v source to power the hard drive and the system boots up fine. The dvd disk drive is also working fine as it is connected to the xbox power supply. I took the xbox power supply out and didn't notice any bad caps or bad solder joints. With everything connected and powered up ,except for the power to the hard drive I get the following voltage values. Orange = 3.3V, Blue = 3.3V, Brown =3.3V, Red = 4.48V, and Yellow = 10.5V. I tried adjust the pot and that is max i can get for red and yellow wires. Which caps do I need replace for these two voltages ? or is there something else i can check? Thanks.

Hi - having gotten the xbox original bug recently I have acquired a few original xbox consoles from friends and colleagues. I have a 1.0 that has a fan on the GPU so it's pretty noisey. I have a 1.6 and that can't be Tspoped and I don't have the skills required to add a chip. Today, a colleague gave me an xbox 1.1 - I opened it and checked to see if there was a fan on the GPU and there isn't - which is good in terms of noise. This also means that I can TSOP the 1.1. I have 3 or 4 more lying around in my attic that I collected over the years at car boot sales (mainly to get the games that came with them in bundle packs) - is there a particular model that I should look out for like the 1.1 seems to have the best of everything for me right now or am I wrong? Which version do you think is the best and why? Thanks in advance.

Hello a couple of days ago I was testing my newly built component cables (Before using them I tested everything with a multimeter and nothing was shorting and I was able to play with them and they looked great since I used shielded 360 cables so I don't think that the cable is the problem) on my Xbox and it was working perfectly fine, I restarted it a couple of times and I didn't have a single problem, today I tried to play again and I got stuck on the iND-Bios splash screen with the light blinking red and green with no change, it just gets stuck there. My Xbox is tsoped and I have installed a 320 Samsung hard drive with an IDE to SATA adapter and an 80 wires IDE cable (Properly insulated), the DVD drive mechanism is not in the best condition since it needs help to eject or insert itself sometimes but it reads discs perfectly fine when they get inside, I tried booting tru Hexen 2019 and the console kept ejecting it, I'm not sure if this is related to the bios stuck problem or the disc drive itself (I didn't have the need to use it for the last half of the year since the HDD was working perfectly fine and I didn't do any major changes to the dashboard/bios). Aside from that it was working without any problems and I didn't change any configs, I just played DOA 3 and Crazy Taxi 3. Now the console just doesn't turn on, I press the power button or eject and the fan spins one time and nothing happens. Video: https://i.imgur.com/aRyVI25.mp4 And i went ahead and took pictures of the motherboard: Motherboard Top: https://imgur.com/a/juHHvXq Motherboard Bottom: https://imgur.com/a/x7QU5BH Capacitors close up: https://imgur.com/a/rtsa2IR None of them seem to be bulging or leaking, and the clock cap is a Nichicon cap (the golden ones) and it looks perfectly fine, the console was retaining the date without problems. Motherboard Sides: https://imgur.com/a/xBjawQV Power Suply: https://imgur.com/a/MsmdA9w Same deal here, all the caps seem to be fine, no leaking or bulging. So i'm not sure what else to check, any advice? Thanks for your time, and let me know if I need to provide more info. Apologies for my grammar errors, English is not my first language.

Hi guys, So a close friend's og xbox had a loud pop and smoke when he plugged it in last month so I decided to give him a spare 1.4 that I TSOPed, put in a 2TB with all necessary parts. He purchased a Hyperkin HDMI and for some reason the there seems to be interference/noise (see pics) on the 1.4 but not on my 1.1. Composite is fine on both. All the settings are the same on both og xboxes. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance...

Equipment Softmodded 1.4 XBOX, clock capacitor removed, EEPROM snagged Hello everyone this my first post! I have gotten my hands on a FRAG 1.4 XBOX, now where this unit differs from any of the traditional FRAG symptoms Is that if you leave the system unplugged over night you are guaranteed to get video and audio on the first startup, Sometimes it successfully boots into the softmod and freezes after 10-120 seconds once you reboot it refuses to go beyond the FRAG loop( i have even successfully booted a original game from the softmod menu froze after a while), on other occasions it hangs during the start up animation and you get awful audio static, reboot the system and you are stuck in the FRAG loop for the day. Anyone ever encountered a unit with these symptoms? I'm thinking this unit might not be fubar, I changed the cooling paste on the GPU and CPU didn't do anything. Just asking around before I go shotgunning and randomly replacing capacitors, any specific ones which tend to go bad?

Hi! I have a topic to start. I'm already happy with my og Xbox upgraded with another 64mb of ram, but I would love to have it modded with 1.4 Ghz Tualatin. My console inside is 1.0 revision motherboard and was manufactured in Hungary, it is also modded with dual tsop and xblast. Do you know if somebody is still doing that upgrade? I've already PM'd to N64 freak but I'am waiting for his reply, so meanwhile when I am waiting for that reply I decided to find out if there is someone else for that job besides of that, I've read that he is only doing 1 Ghz, not 1.4 Ghz anymore - but I already have two proper tualatins so maybe I'll convince him. The only other person I know that was doing this is Trusty but I don't know where could I contact him. My soldering skills are very little, that is why I'm looking for somebody.

Strange I am unable to read burnt discs with Phillips DVD drv on the 1.4 but originals boot fine. No issues with Issues with Phillips DVD drv on 1.1. Do I have to apply a patch to DVD drv? If no I will try another DVD-R burner on slowest speed. Thanks in advance.

Tried to solder the pads for a 1.4 and ended up removing a solder pad. When I try flash it just gets stuck at erasing the 0 percent shows. My solder skills aren't the greatest so I'm not surprised. I've since got some conductive paint/glue and tsop flashed a 1.1 successfully. Is there any other way I can manage to tsop flash this Xbox even though the pads gone?

https://gyazo.com/8f116b4a34f4e478647879340b7f74aa what bios @SS_Dave do you think i should go with? 1.4v revision

Hi guys after succesfully tsop my crystal og xbox 1.4 i was trying to re-install xbmc4gamer and when i try to install it in partition e i get an error of cannot copy D and is not working. Only way i found it to work is if i install it as an app but then im unable to have it on boot Anyone knows why? Forgot to say im using rocky tools extra disk for installing xbmc Thanks

I'm a total newbie to soldering/electronics and I messed up while trying to replace the capacitor on my old xbox. I took a picture from underneath the motherboard and labelled which hole is positive and negative, and I'm trying to understand what my options are for getting a cap in there. For the record, I damaged the "via" rivets so the holes are damaged. Some people talk about scratching off the light green stuff to reveal the copper and attaching wires to it, to which a cap could go on the end? I'm really confused and would appreciate any help you could offer. First pic was the bulged caps. Damaged cap slot is on the far right. Next pic is of the underside of the 3rd cap slot. 3rd pic is from the top of the motherboard, same cap slot. I think the copper vias connecting the different layers in the board were damaged, as they came out with the cap that I had to remove (yes I'm dumb, got frustrated and had the temperature too high). What are my options here? Is there any way to go around this? Is it worth just filling in the holes with plenty of solder and installing the cap as normal? Really don't know what to do

How are y’all doing? I’m trying to install the Aladdin chip on my 1.4 motherboard and I need to know if I need to solder the LAN and the HD to the Aladdin chip?

Could I have some advice please on a way to TSOP flash a bios of recommendation without the use of the DVD drive. So off the hard drive or USB.

Hi,have another xbox 1.4 no modchip no softmod no tsop flashing, DVD is Philips and HDD Seagate,when turn on the xbox red ring lithing any solutions? Desolder a clock capacitor.

Dvd drive power cord got shorted out now the xbox turns on and off twice then stays on with no video. No visible damage to mother board could I have wiped the tsop by shorting out the cable? Tryed swapping power supply from working xbox samething