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Everything posted by SS_Dave

  1. If you have one xbox thats works ok have you conpaired settings like region, time zones, etc Whats the name of some of the games?
  2. What BIOS are you using?
  3. Have you tried setting PAL-60 to No The Pal format is 50 hz and at the momnet you have 60hz\ SS Dave
  4. Yes you can higher in voltage so from 6.3 volt to 10 volt is fine. SS Dave
  5. Good to here you got it going and I think it's going to live. It also looks like you removed some of the excess solder from the LPC port Here is part 2 of my Tutorial with pictures. 1st step Clean off the paint. I cheated and used a Glass fiber pen to do that but gentley scraping the track is ok you only nead to remove the paint. 2nd Step Add flux to the board 3rd Tin the trace 4th Prep the wire you are going to use 5th Tin and trim the wire. I should have trimed it a bit shorter 6th Lay the wire on the tinned trace and apply heat. 7th Clean up the PCB Now rince and repeat for the other end. Once you have tested it and your happy a small dob of hot melt glue or even a dob of super glue to stop the wire moving. Not on the solder joint say 5 to 10mm(1/4 inch) from the solder joint. Once you have it up and running I suggest you use the D0 point on the other side. Then when it can read backup disk's think about putting on the TSOP flash links even if you use conductive paint and reflash the board and keep the chip for a your next one. A search will fill you in how to do that. The best thing I did was get a memory card and the 007 agent under fire game. Easy add the TSOP flash solder links copy game save to Xbox from the memory card then insert the 007 game in drive and reboot the Xbox when game has loaded load the saved mission then less than 5 minutes later it's reflashed. Any way let me know how you get on with the repair. Cheers SS Dave
  6. Have you had a look at the video setting via MS Dash? SS Dave
  7. And let that be a lesson to you. Good to here it's alive!! Post a pic of the repair if you game
  8. Sorry for the long winded post it's more of a Tutorial on geting out of a minor stuff up. All is not lost I have had PCB's droped on my repair bench with a sh!t load more damage than that in the 40+ Years I have been a tech. 1st up carefully remove that wire and bin it. Clean the around where you have been working I use this stuff with an antistatic brush but an old tooth brush will also work. A cotton bud (quetip) is ok for where you had the wire is if your scared. You can also clean the whole PCB with the same stuff. Make sure it's dry befor powering it up a heat gun on low or a hair drier will speed that up. Cleaning a whole board like a xbox with a quetip is for beginers. Boards go though a full autrasonic bath in production so a light scrub with Isopropyl is nothing. In a pinch you can use methylated spirits. 2nd Go and get some Kynar 30AWG wire. While your getting the Kynar wire get some Solder wick, 0.8mm solder and solder flux paste. Look at this pic below if you solder a wire from where you had your wire at the red mark at the top to the trace beside the red mark at the bottom that will repair the board. If you follow where you have soldered the wire along the track you will see what i mean. It's the trace on the corner of the yellow capacitor. A light scrape of the pcb to remove the greenish paint ( I mean light you only want to remove the paint so you can see the silver/copper track) then add flux, then tin the trace (add a small amount of solder to the track) {work Dr Google for solder tinning } now tin the wire now hold the wire on the tined trace and apply heat. Job done. The next 2 pics is from a Aladdin install manual To attach the D0 wire to the PBC on the top using the technique above or you can add the D0 wire to the same wire you repaired the track with. Using the solder wick remove 75% of the solder around the LPC port adding some flux will help use Miss Google again if your not sure on using solder wick. Now remove the clock cap (do a search) Give the PCB a good clean and go over your work with a magnifying glass and redo anything your not happy with. Once you have compleated the repair and it's all working and your happy with your self give your self a pat on the back and post us pic of your work. A hint DO NOT work on this type of repair when tried, stressed and have plenty of light. Also don't rush it just take yor time. If you get stuck or are not sure if your doing it corectly just ask. Good Luck Cheers SS Dave I am just blowing my own trumpet here. This is pic of one of the PS2 Mod chip's I fitted sometime ago.
  9. And yes the pad you have soldeered to is ground. SS Dave
  10. 1st up the trace is damaged and will need to be repaired You will need to link the trace either side of where you tried to solder too. 2nd try using a thiner wire single strand wirewrap wire is perfect and any reason you have the D0 going to ground and not to the D0 pad on the mod chip. 3rd Please clean that mother board and not so much solder on the LPC port. Cheers SS Dave
  11. While you have the box apart Clean the fan with a brush and vacuum cleaner. Un plug the disk drive power and power up the xbox and see if it's quieter.
  12. What happens when you disconect the chip and the D0 wire. Also a pic of your work would help.
  13. A quick update on how I did my version of the internal OGX360 adaptor. I modded this way becacause i wanted to be able to use either a wired or the wireless control, I also didn't want to have a separate switch,switches and extra port for the wireless adaptor and it also had to be kid proof plus as a bonus the case is untouched. This is version 2 you don't want to see version 1. Even this PCB could have been made a bucket load smaller but it is version 2. The Video is version 2 in operation. At the monent and when time permits I am working on version 3 that will use all ports including auto switching between wireless and wired. Meaning the ports are all wireless if the wireless adaptor is pluged in but if you plug in a wired controler into port 2,3 or 4 it takes over that port and hopefully it will be all SMD and plug in to the Xbox control conectors internally so no mods to the Xbox and easly removable if wanted. I used 4 pole change over electrionic relay to change the USB lines between the Wired control and reroute the USB signals via Ryzee119's adaptor when the wireless adaptor is pluged in but I had to add a short delay for the power on the OGX360 PCB to make it reliably conect to a 360 control. A sacrifical control extension lead was used to replace the USB lead in the 360 wireless adaptor as shown in the 1st pic. In the intrest of making it as small as posable I didn't use USB plugs but soldered wires to the OGX360 PCB which is heat shinked along with the switching board I made and easly fits inside the Xbox without any cutting. I will post more in time as I progress with this project. Cheers SS Dave
  14. Is it the fan that's making the noise. I have had hard disks make more noise than the fan.
  15. Hi All It took a bit but it's working the way I wanted. All hidden inside the case. I wanted to be able to retain the Original controller or plug in a wireless adapter for the Xbox360 wirless controller. Using Ryzee119's adapter and some switching and making use of the light gun wire I got it working. At this stage it is just the 1st port with the other ports untouched. The only small issue is the 5 second delay before the 360 controller will work after that the there doesn't appear to be any lag between the 2. The video clip should give you the idea of what I wanted. https://youtu.be/rVq23B0gLdU Cheers SS Dave
  16. Like this Then Yes SS Dave
  17. Hi All Any one know what happen to www.eurasia.nu They had a assume download section for all consoles and a online shop as well. The last couple of days I get unable to connect try again later. Cheers SS Dave
  18. The X2lite glue a magnet on the back and use it as a fridge magnet. Cheers SS Dave
  19. SS_Dave

    X3 Ce Frag

    The first x3 chip I got would frag but that was because i was holding the power button to long try a supper quick tap to turn on with X3 enabled long press will boot the OEM bios SS Dave
  20. I agree with Magicaldave comments. I have a X3 chip with the LCD in a 1.6 box using a 2tb hard disk. I purchased 4 SATA to IDE adapters from AliExpress and found that 2 worked in the Xbox using a 80way lead and the other 2 only work in a PC. The only reason to go with lower MB (1.0 to 1.5) would be for the extra RAM upgrade. As for the clock I have set a local time sync IP for updating the time and date on boot as all my boxes are networked so clock cap not needed. Cheers SS Dave
  21. Best to replace with new parts but if desperate to get it going you could use parts from a spare PCB. SS Dave
  22. Just my 2bob's worth you say your using a crossover cable. but to me it looks like both machines are looking for the GATEWAY I may be wrong but i would have thought the PC would be IP gateway and Xbox IP gateway SS Dave
  23. Hi nikeymikey Why not use one of these pcb's as it's simple just sit on Xbox LPC and solder. I had heaps of them years ago as they came with the modchips I was using at the time now I just use thin wire to repair the LPC. The wire I use is wire-wrap wire as it's a single strand and very thin. A quick ask Dr Google had this site popped up with some for sale. Here is one of probably many sites with them for sale https://www.game-tech.us/product/lpc-rebuild-board-for-v1-6-original-xbox/ As for your network I am sure you have tried a different cat5 lead or a different device (laptop with a wired network port) in place of the Xbox and also check the settings to make sure Network setup is enabled and set correctly. Cheers SS Dave

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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