dbrown1986

XBOX v1.0 ST TSOP iND-BiOS 5003 06 Minebea PSU SAMSUNG Optical Drive 500GB SATA w/ high performance PATA adapter 1Ghz CPU (courtesy of N64Freak) 128MB RAM (courtesy of N64Freak) Emustation/CoinOps w/ Chihiro ROMS. Dual Dash (Retail + Debug) GhostCase Protected AC Power Adapter A/V Composite A/V Component Aftermarket Controller Aftermarket USB Adapter. Video:

Solder wick is your friend.

^ this I was looking for that article when I originally posted. It's easier to get an Aladdin xblast.

I think you might be a little confused. You can use xblast to flash recover a tsop or flash any bios to it, but I'm fairly certain it wasn't designed to be flashed directly to the TSOP. Given that xblast is written with original code and not proprietary Microsoft code, there's a small chance that flashing it directly to your tsop might not be a good idea. Also, if it did work, you would still need to wire up and bridge points to enable tsop splitting; and because xblast would be on the tsop, and not the usual modchip, there would be no way to avoid your MCPX chip burning out (literally), as the modchip with xblast usually sends a signal to stop positive flow to the MCPX gate. There's also a chance you may end up flashing a bank improperly, leading to a dead-end tsop which only loads one bank, or worse, loads none of them. Gemma still sells xblast upgraded aladdin chips for $18, shipping included. Twenty bucks ain't much of a splurge for making sure your oxbox remains unsullied. I have a 1ghz with 128mb, a 500gb SATA, a ghost case, sammy drive and a Minebea PSU. I run all other BIOS through an Aladdin upgraded with xblast and running off the LPC so as not to muck it up.

UPDATE: The seller is sending me a replacement board. No longer required. Got sent a board from an eBay seller that is FRAGGING out of the box. Many loose capacitors and I fear more underlying problems. I need a v1.0 or v1.1 board, as all I have lying around are single ATX power supplies. TSOP flashed preferred, but if not, then EEPROM extracted, if possible. Please PM.

Most likely there are solder joints which are not making a reliable electrical connection (cold joints). These may need to be reflowed with an iron to make a more stable connection between the X3 and the LCD. It's been forever and a day since I had an X3, so I'm not 100% sure, but you could check the X3 Config Menu (power on the xbox with both Power + Eject pressed) and see if there are any relative options there. as it could just be as simple as it not being enabled.

RAM, from UTSource, usually arrives within 5-8 days. https://www.utsource.net/sch/K4D263

TL;DR - I'm David. I know a few OXBOX tricks. Hey everyone. I've been busy with work this week, so I haven't had a chance to properly introduce myself. Names David. I'm 32; live at the beach and work at a casino (why I was so busy when I signed up and didn't write this intro thread yet). I've had a knack for electronics since I was nine. First modded XBOX I ever owned had a X3CE (damn shame I ever got rid of it; as X3CE's can go for a dime these days). The X3 unit was not modded by me, but I'm glad that I had it, as it helped encourage my budding curiosity. I used to do a lot of XBOX discussion on The ISO Zone before the owner pulled the plug on the site. Here's hoping it's successor lives up to the task. First time I ever modded my own XBOX, it was a softmod, followed by using an old Hewlett Packard AMD-K6 to build an upgraded drive for it. Ended up giving it to a friend some time later, he still has it. That one was a v1.6. We had a mutual friend who saw my old XBOX; and wanted one as well. He brought me his old XBOX from storage and it was a v1.1. So, with his permission, I went about doing the TSOP bridge and wrote X2 5035 to the onboard BIOS and installed XBMC on a 160GB HDD for him and used x2config.ini to point to E:xbmc.xbe; worked like a charm. Now, I find myself at it again with a more recent project. This time, I will NOT be getting rid of. I got my hands on an original v1.0 and I have been steadily making improvements. V1.0 4034 Hynix 1MB TSOP w/ X2 5035 64MB RAM 733Mhz P3 equivalent. Removed clock cap (XBMC uses NTP anyway) Samsung SDG-605 (had a Thomson) 500GB SATA II (PATA adapter) 80-wire IDE cable. Ghost case (functional as long as you're careful with them) Protected Power Cord Component Cable Minebea Power Supply (on the way) *In talks with N64Freak about a RAM and CPU upgrade.* Here is a video of the one that our mutual friend got: Here is a video of the one I am currently working on: Yes, the similarities are intentional. The one I designed for my friend was called THE REAPER; but only as a prototype. He later had me change the boot colors and sound to something else. So I have adopted The Reaper as my calling card.

Looks like an Aladdin XT clone. The modder soldered it on (sometimes easier than rebuilding the LPC) and bridged BT to the board so the chip *SHOULD* be always-on. These usually come pre-loaded with evox-m8+_1.6 bios, and it looks like that is a 1.6 board. So you could just stick with the Evox BIOS if you wanted to. The SST chip in the socket there is where the modchip BIOS is stored and is 256Kb, so we don't want to flash any BIOS that is larger than 256k, which leaves you with the following options: evox.m8.v16 evox.m8.v16.fc.137 evox.m8plus.v16 evox.m8plus.v16.fc.137 x2.4981.06 x2.4981.06.fc.ef x2.4981.67 x2.4981.67.fc.ef x2.4983.06 x2.4983.67 I would just stick with the BIOS it has on it already, if you are not sure how to proceed. It should be able to load a burned disc (DVD-R). So grab a copy of Hexen or AID and use that to prepare the hard drive and install a dashboard. Another way to test, is to insert an empty; unformatted hard drive, and if instead of throwing an error code a message pops up saying NEW HARD DRIVE DETECTED, PRESS Y TO FORMAT, then you know that the chip is working and has a custom BIOS on it. Good luck!

The original 40-pin, 40-wire is 22" So, I ordered a 24" 80-wire from Amazon. The one I got, the connectors were inverted, so I had to get fancy when folding the cable.

Another clone shouldn't be necessary as long as you did a byte-by-byte copy. Just make sure the new drive is locked.

The hard drive would need to be unlocked for you to browse it through xplorer360. If you borked your dash files, than the only way you could do this would be to try and hotswap it during bootup while it's in the process of loading your error screen (timing is everything here). Otherwise you would need to build a serial ttl eeprom probe to dump your eeprom and use tools on the PC to read that you dumped it correctly. Then use that dump to rebuild with XBOXHDM or Xplorer360.

My XBOX just squeeled when I turned it off. I'm thinking it could be the power supply; as it is a v1.0. Any suggestions on the best power supply to get for the v1.0?