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big F

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Posts posted by big F

  1. Checked it out, seems simple enough, half the prep is the same as a standard resto for me, and the rest is the sort of stuff you do prior to painting.

    Just wondering the dye is it a use once throw away or can you have several runs on it.   Not that I am cheap its just that if you can reuse it would cut down on prep etc.  

    Also the creative in me is thinking what if i mix colours………….

  2. 2 hours ago, dtomcat said:

    Not that I’m aware of.  You could sand one down and scan it… and recreate it inside KiCad

    Thats how I have done it in the past, although I didnt use KiCad.  KiCad is the tool to use though as it has the option of essentially tracing the image making it into a cloned board.

    • Like 1
  3. 2 hours ago, Bowlsnapper said:

    Well, I think that's true, however, I would like to get better at resin printing and 3D printing in general. If I improve my skills I think I can make myself worth more and I think that's worth something :)

    That makes sense if you get your own gear then deffo practice practice practice 

    • Like 1
  4. Why local,  local is likely to be a small operation with higher running costs and cheaper printers.  The big boys spend 100k on a printer top end model  buy ten and think nothing of it.  
    Your small mom and pop service operating out of a spare room or a garage can’t compete with that . There are so many resin printing services online. Just post the files tell them what you want, pay and wait for the mail.

  5. I would test print with PLA then get PCBWay to resin print one.  Buttons wise you could silicon cast an original button set, the really big issue is not the tampo print on the buttons, more the carbon contractors on the back of the buttons. Probably best to just case swap an original and live with the off white buttons.

    • Like 1
  6. The plating that Eleflex put on the RF shield is nothing more than plain old tin plating. The bare minimum required for keeping an RF ground shield looking nice, long enough to be out of warranty before any imperfections allow rust in.

    Im sure that one would look lovely in an actual Chrome plate, but would be expensive due to the prep required and i5 being thin steel, which is much more effort to prep for the copper and or nickel plate , prior to the Chrome finish.

  7. 2 hours ago, lopenator said:

    I have a shield that is very rusty. I need to do something like this. I'm trying to get a crystal Xbox but here in the states theyre freaking hundreds of $. I wish I was in uk

    They are going up in price in the UK now, as is the usual with retro items.  That said the clear green Xboxes are not so common in the UK.   Maybe we needo set up some kind of exchange system.

  8. Not sure why you were told the original finish is not plating.  It certainly is. Every one of my extensive collection has a plated RF shield. Maybe yours was painted previously, although it doesn't look like it in the photos. I used to work for a company that did electroplating so have shall we say a bit of experience in it.  You can also solder the RF plating as I have done on a couple,  cant do that with paint.

    That said the work looks good, considering it was less than perfect to start with it looks as good as factory if not a bit better.  The factory plating was never that consistent 

  9. Saw one of these in Japan in maybe 2005, back then the Xbox in japan was about as popular as a tsunami.  Iirc it was about £200.  Didn't have the room to bring it back. Bought loads of very cheap genuine MS accessories for Xbox though.  Next trip over I had learnt enough Japanese to sort out posting my purchases back to myself, via the postoffice. Sadly there were no out of the ordinary Xboxes on sale that I could find.  Did get a limited ED PS2 though.

  10. 1 hour ago, Bowlsnapper said:

    I wonder if it's possible to widen the bed on my Elegoo Neptune 4... it's just BARELY like an inch too narrow. :(

    If it’s built like an ender you can buy the Aluminium square section and essentially cut your own that will give the area then you need a bigger heater bed. The heater beds are fairly generic across the market.  Then just get a bigger glass pad or magnetic sheet or what ever you use to match.

    the printer parameters can be adjusted in Marlin software, so it can be told to expect a bigger bed. Slicer software obvs can be set up to what ever you want.

    • Thanks 1
  11. Just wondering the link thats on one of them, could be akin to the switch on Most decent PC PSUs.  120v one way 240 the other.

    Thinking  of the heritage of the OG Xbox, its essentially a highly modded PC so goes to high possibility that Delta or whom ever built the first PSU’s probably raided the PC parts bin.  

    The PSU does little more than your standard PC’ PSU the only real difference is the latching voltage for the standby PON.

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