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Mattia99

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  1. This transistor is perfectly fine.
  2. I think I'll buy a complete 1.6 with a bad shell and just use it as parts for mine after modding and upgrading the hdd. Thank you again for your precious answers.
  3. So I tested the point that you said and it gives around 0.6 or 12 ohms on a 200 scale depending on the multimeter I'm using, so it's nowhere near to your values. Well about experience, I'm learning and this is the first project gone bad, I had much more luck with crts and other consoles, maybe because they had less layers of pcb. Well if it wasn't for the bad advice that it was given to me on reddit this would have ended differently for sure since the missing pads were not so a big problem, only the outer pad fell off. Yes the xbox was softmodded. Yes it is correct but unfortunately I discovered too latethat the advice given was incorrect. I tried with a new connection, supposedly correct but it doesn't work even removing it. I warn you, the soldering job on this connection is bad and ugly but it was just to try if it worked. The other caps are soldered with good shiny joints that attach perfectly to the pads. The photos are not so good, in person the look much better.
  4. Before and after gives the same values only a 0.1 of difference for the yellow point. The 3 caps near the heatsink are new. I recapped all the board before the disaster.
  5. Hi! Where points the red arrow it shows 5V, the yellow 0.
  6. Thank you for your precious informations. I used a different multimeter and now the voltage is correct for the psu but still 0.2 for the inductor and the transistor near the clock cap is 3.3v so it was the previous multimeter at fault. The 3300uf caps are shorted. If you said that it is toasted I think that there is nothing more that I can check and it is not repairable. If I find another 1.6 xbox can I swap the motherboard an use the dvd drive that I have? It is a Philips and works like new. Thank you again
  7. I checked on mine and it says 0.2V
  8. Hi everyone! After much hesitation I decided to replace the capacitors in my Xbox 1.6 ... well it didn't go as expected. The 3300uf caps were a pain to desolder for an unknown reason and I lifted 4 pads in total (the positive of C1F2, both pads of C1G10 and the positive of C6G3). So, initially I didn't know that I made such a disaster and the console FRAGged with alterating green/red light after attempting to booth two times with green light and also no video. Troubleshooting I noticed that the dvd drive didn't want to open unless I unplugged it from the IDE cable and that no error was showing even with only the motherboard and psu connected. As adviced by some kind guy on Reddit I checked the joints of the 3300uf caps and I discovered what I did with the pads. The same guy said that in order to repair the traces I had to connect the positives of C1F2 and C1G10 toghether an then to one of the legs of the coil above (L2F1); the negative of C1G10 to ground an finally the positive of C6G3 to the positive of the cap next to it (C6G2). Done all that the Xbox doesn't boot anymore. When pushing the power button there is a soft buzzing noise. So I decided to check the voltage of the 220-240V Delta PSU. I found that the voltage doubled: orange is 10.3V, red 10.3V and yellow 0.5 in stand by and 24.8V when pressing the on button. I also tested the transistor next the clock cap and it says 6.3 V. What can I do? Please help me, I don't want to lose my cherished xbox. Thank you in advance!

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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