Megoosa

The traces of the power/eject button are already repaired/bypassed on this one. Also, the PSU should give 3,3v if the button traces on the mainboard are broken. But I have read some thread on this forum saying a pico PSU actually doesn't have enough power on the 5v and on some Xbox boards capacitors are removed to make it boot? Also, without additional hardware the pico PSU is set to always-on so the Xbox board also get power when it's off. That doesn't hurt the board at the long time?

That's true. But I feel bad at the idea of stripping a good console to repair another one. I tried to find a 1.2-1.4 with a dead mainboard but didn't found one yet. In the meantime I have another Xbox OG to play games on. It's a 1.0 with the Foxlink power supply which has the weak soldering points. I resoldered it and hope it will last long. That's sad It seem to be possible to hook up a ATX power supply to it? But it's not practical, doesn't fit in the case.

I don't have the knowledge to repair the power supply, unfortunately. And it's the only power supply I have for this Xbox. I saw the units on Tinker-Mods, but I think the free shipping isn't for The Netherlands. And US power supplies not always support the 230vac used here as input.

You mean the grey one (I have the PSU from Delta), the stand-by 3,3v? There's no purple wire on this PSU. I tested it this time with the PSU connected to the mainboard and it's 0,0v Without the mainboard connected it jumps to 0,05-0,1v when it's connected to the power outlet but drops to 0,0v within a second.

My in January repaired 1.4 Xbox console is dead today, it didn't turn on Both the power and eject button does nothing. It played fine a week ago. I opened it up, disconnected the PSU from the mainboard and used a multimeter to check the voltage between the grey pin and ground according to the diagram below (Delta PSU). It only jumps to 0,05-0,1v when it's connected to a power outlet. It gives no 3,3v. Does it mean the PSU is dead and not easily fixable?

The drive is still working fine. I backed up the save games only. The EEPROM is already somewhere on the PC because I dumped it using a Raspberry Pi, I bought this Xbox with a broken hard drive back then. And I flashed Cerbios to the TSOP, so it should accept any unlocked HDD.

Maybe the molex connector to the hard drive was a bit worn, because this Xbox was dissembled a lot by the previous owner and the connector can be pulled out with very little force. I tried the easiest fix first by bending the pins in the connector a bit tighter and the problem seem to be gone now. It's used for a couple of days already, the same game. If the problem comes back I'll try to re-transfer the game using FTP.

My Xbox with 1.4 board and Cerbios which was repaired some months ago has played many hours of games without any problems. Until the last 3 days. Every day when I play a game (NFS: Underground 2) the hard disk will click once (and sounding like it restarts) within the first 10 minutes of gaming. The game then hangs after a few seconds when it wants to load new data. I can power off and on the Xbox using the power button and then play the same game for an hour or longer without any problems. And the problem repeat itself the next day. The most logical seems to be a faulty hard disk (it's a old 160GB P-ATA drive from Western Digital). But because it only happens once a day (when the unit is cold?), is there another possible cause like a power supply problem or even a worn power connector to the drive? I don't want to throw away a P-ATA hard drive too quickly.

The optical disc drives are exchangeable. I've swapped the drives from a 1.0 (Thomson) and 1.4 (Philips) once and they both worked fine.

I think the cheapest method will be the modchip if you just want to fix this one Xbox (and the only method if you want something other then the standard BIOS because it's a 1.6), but if you want to repair/mod more units a Raspberry Pi to read the EEPROM will be cheaper in the long run.

The bracket is very expensive... €49,62 with the shipping included, without the fan If I find a cheap heatsink on eBay one day I'll go for it. But for now the original fan is lubricated and back into one piece, the spokes are glued back in place It isn't noisy anymore, maybe it will be ok for some time

I updated my previous post, it's popped off now using a tool to pry it I thought it was a coil in the blades part, but it's only a magnet. But a third spoke broke... it's only attached now with 1 spoke and the spoke where the wires are I think I must try to glue that first.

I don't have a spare 1.1-1.6 heatsink and doesn't like the idea to buy a Xbox to scrap it for the heatsink. So I want to service/lubricate the fan. The topic mentions: "it simply pops off if you force it gently with both fingers equal amount of pressure on fan blades as close to the base of assembly." I tried this and it's not popping off. Instead, 2 of the 4 spokes which holds the fan to it's frame broke off. It seem like on the photo in that topic also 2 of the 4 spokes are broken, but he got the blades off Mine are still attached It looks like the coil is near the edge of the blades part so I can't use tools to pop it? Edit: I got it off But a third spoke broke too I must try to glue that...

When I was looking for a extra gamepad, I came across a "duke" gamepad including a whole Xbox for 10 bucks, I couldn't resist not taking it Everything works, but inside the Xbox it looks like it has a 1.0 board. I've read things about the Foxlink PSU in 1.0 units... and this one has the Foxlink The pins on the AC connector are slightly movable and the solder is cracked, but working. After taking the picture I resoldered it. Is resoldering the only fix for it to prevent melting away some day? Second thing is the fan on the GPU heatsink which makes noise the first minute it's tuned on. The same noise PC fans make when they are worn. But with a PC fan I can remove the label to reveal the bearing and put a drop of oil in it, letting it run quietly again for a couple more years. But removing the label on this GPU fan doesn't reveal the bearing. Is this fan repairable in a different way?

Oh, the forum was offline for some time :- o The TSOP is flashed now. There were 2 problems. First one was the shadowC of the softmod. It was only possible to FTP the bios to the real C:\ after starting NKpatch settings program. Second one was a bad solder point (I'm not good at soldering things this tiny). In another topic I saw there are alternative points on the bottom side, I used these to check with the multimeter and one of the points was not connected. After resoldering, Xblast flashes fine. It automatically restarted after flashing and the Cerbios screen was shown. Then... stuck at a black screen, which should be the here mentioned incompatibility of Cerbios+softmod. I created a fresh HDD with FatXplorer and copied the clean files to it. Then copied UnleashX to C:\UnleashX\default.xbe. Also copied the cerbios.ini to C:\ (is not created automatically after first boot) and edited it to start UnleashX. Now it's working fine.

It seem like Xblast OS gives "Unknown device" in the flash menu, cannot flash anything. The board has a Winbond TSOP. Is this a sign that the solder bridges are not ok?

At this moment it seem like the standard UnleashX dashboard from Rocky5's softmod is in C:\Dashboard\Default.xbe. The MS Dashboardinstalled afterwards is in E:\Applications\MSDash\Default.xbe What the C:\xboxdash.xbe is, I don't know. Because now it still has the stock BIOS but boots to UnleashX, I think it's somehow a loader program? But if I install the clean C and E files after flashing Cerbios, then the C:\xboxdash.xbe will be MS Dashboard I suppose? So Cerbios will boot that? With installing a dashboard in E:\, I suppose it's just extracting the (UnleashX) .xbe in the correct location? In what location does Cerbios look for a dashboard if no cerbios.ini is found?

Ok, so I need te reformat/setup at least the C and E drive after flashing Cerbios to remove the softmod because otherwise it will crash with a black screen. Games are on F so I should not need te retransfer them. And, I've read Cerbios needs a C:\Cerbios.ini. Can it boot without it and create one itself or do I need to place it there first? And how about my save files? These are so far I know stored in E:\udata. Can I just copy them over FTP and back after formatting? Will all the save files keep working? As I remember, some save files are locked to the console and disc? The DVD drive in the console is not 100% working anymore, so I can't rely on the option to use a setup disc. If I'm correct, the alternative option is to use FatXplorer on a PC? Does this software include a dashboard and the additional MS Dash as a application (needed for Insignia) after formatting/setting up? P.s. I am a "she/her".

At this moment I have a softmodded 1.4 console (Rocky5's softmod put on a fresh locked HDD with Xboxhdm2) and I'm thinking of installing Cerbios. Is it just easy as bridging the unlock point on the board and use Xblast to flash Cerbios to the TSOP? Can I keep the existing softmodded hard disk with the UnleashX dashboard, games and saves on it? Or do I need to reformat the drive or remove the softmod after flashing? And if I want to replace the hard disk with a larger one in the future, I still use Chimp to clone it and not needing to lock it after?

I resoldered the whole connector the first time, only adding some fresh solder. After that it got better, but the problem was still there. The second time I resoldered it with flux added (some "no clean" flux for electronics repair) and now the problem seem to be gone I tapped the console when it's running and no more distortions on the screen It looks like this is a problem-free Xbox now Why Xbox consoles have these problems like the broken power button traces, leaking capacitor and bad joints on the connector? Wasn't it a quality product?

This is the bottom of the board and the part where the AV-connector is. I'll resolder the pins of the AV connector and give it a try.

I've checked it and the pins on both the connector and the cables are ok. Also, the cable works fine on another console.

I cleaned the port with alcohol and a q-tip, but it's the same. Also, the distortion can't be introduced by tapping the AV-connector. It only happens when the mainboard is tapped harder or bend (like when lifting up the console). I think it really is something on the mainboard.

My hand is not steady enough to safely use standard multimeter probes on the IC when it's powered on But I heated the board with a hairdryer and the problem with the power button didn't return. I also played 3 hours of videogames on it and the power button still works. And the Xbox remains off after connecting the power cord. So I hope the power button problem is solved now with that single wire There seem to be another problem with the board, but only when using a component cable: if the console is lifted or tapped on it when it's on, the video will get pink dots distortion or go blank if tapped too hard on it. When using RGB cable there's only little noise distortion if it's lifted/tapped. It doesn't happen when tapping on the (video) IC's. It looks like it's because the board is bend a very little bit when the console is lifted up (plastic bottom), that causes the distortion. Maybe some traces/solder broken in the board. But it works fine when normally used to play games without moving it

There was no continuity between the pink points (power button), so I soldered a wire between that resistor and the PIC (seem to be the same as the C1 points on the bottom). But it still wasn't turning on. But then I took a closer look and saw that I accidentally dropped a mini-mini drop of solder on part C3G9 (SMD capacitor?) next to the resistors, shorting it After removing that drop, it's turning back on again At this moment I don't have time to play an hour of videogames so I can't test if it still works when warm. But, why is the power button working with the pink (C1) connection broken, when it's cold?