tripplies

Solid orange. XBMC has an option to change the colour, and it was on Leave As Is so I figured it was keeping the error checking from before I softmodded it. Anyway, after I cycled through that setting just now, it has gone back to green on Leave As Is. Weird! I've only ever had it powered on with both drives connected. Anyway, I'm going to use it and keep an eye on any power problems. Thanks so much for your help fellas.

The kit finally arrived (lockdown) and I did it. It did not go well at all, either because there wasn't enough heat or for the lack of flux (dumb, I know, I just didn't want to put any more money into this), so the iron was on the board for much too long in my opinion, but the joints are no longer cracked at any rate. They might have oxidation or whatever now I frankly wouldn't be able to tell. But the power outlet no longer wobbles on the board and I put it all back together and it powers on now. It is, however, still loud and still displays an orange LED light.

Update: I called a local repairs guy who quoted $75 per Xbox which for two reflows and jumping a trace is ridiculous. So I ordered a soldering kit from ebay. Do I have to take off the power plug that's connected to the motherboard? Or is that more to stop the PSU awkwardly flipping over or what have you, while soldering? Also, given their size, should I be de-soldering with a pump those two joints, before soldering them?

I tried for 40 minutes yesterday and I just can't get it off. I tried carefully prying it and everything. I would never usually pull from the cords but I had to do that too and the pin with the yellow cord has come a little loose and it's poking out. I may have broken it full now and should cut my losses. If it needs to come off in order to do the soldering, then I definitely give up.

Melbourne. I'm going to call about soldering tomorrow. I opened up the other (2003) Xbox with the broken power button, to check its PSU. The plastic bit the power cord goes into is much sturdier than the wobbly 2002 model Xbox's, which is merely held there by those clips coming through the board. It's a Delta PSU. I think this one looks pretty good, no? Also, what about these at the other end of the PSU? Both Xbox boards have these sorta bubbled ones (top right):

Thanks for getting back guys. Don't have a multimeter. And I've never soldered in my life. I might make a few calls to see if anyone will accept a small soldering job. A PC repair place? Not sure who'd do it cheap. Perhaps they could fix the power button tracer problem with the other Xbox too? Cheers. Not the third one, on the right? What the....wait, is this why I can't for the life of me remove that connector from the motherboard? It seems to be stuck on. And why would these two be mixed up? I'm in Australia if that means anything. Anyway, the machine works fine when the power is getting through.

Hey everyone, I'm new here. I have two OG Xboxes. The first I bought pre-softmodded and which cannot be turned off by the power button, I gather because a trace was eroded; I did take out the clock cap and cleaned it up, however. And the second I softmodded myself as a project because a guy was giving it away for $5. This one doesn't have power/tray eject button problems, however, it did start to make a buzz (the HDD?) or loud fan noise before this happened, but I'm not sure if that's normal for this model. Yesterday it died on me as I was playing a game, for the first time. I took it off power and gave it a rest and then tried again, and it died after a few seconds. Now it doesn't turn on at all. I did some research and given that this one never seemed to have leaked capacitor fluid, and given the caps all over are fine, no swelling, I think it must be the power supply. I thought I would check with you guys first, as I am not very computer savvy and if all I have to do is solder these, I'm not sure I could do it myself tbh, or if it would be cheaper to just hire someone who already has the tools and know how. But I need to know if these are indeed the culprit.