sweetdarkdestiny

US or EU?

If you have an IDE HDD with stock 40 wire cable - UDMA2 If you have an IDE HDD with 80 wire cable - UDMA4 If you have an SATA HDD with 80 wire cable and cheapo SATA adapter and 80 wire cabel - UDMA4 If you have an SATA HDD with 80 wire cable and an SATA adapter that has a Marvel controller on it - UDMA5 If you have an SATA SSD with 80 wire cable and cheapo SATA adapter - UDMA4 (MAYBE UDMA5 works) If you hace an SATA SSD with 80 wire cable and SATA adapter that has a Marvel controller on it - UDMA6 If you flash a UDMA5 bios and you have just a stock HDD with 40 wire cable, you can trigger the save mode by starting the console with the eject button. That will trigger UDMA2 and you be able to reflash a lower UDMA mode. For normal however the bios will reboot it self into lower UDMA mode after displaying a massage which informs you what may gone wrong.

You didn't searched hard enough. There is the option to flash it with an evox flasher oven to flash it with xblast.

XENOCHIP - Extra Chip For Your Console (archive.org) There are so many clones and clones of clones even with SST's and not winbonds...... Once there was a company named "Aladdin Advanced" which created a lot of copies and Xeno changed then the name or even had a copyright on it. Not to sure here.

Probably the 47nf & 220nf (maybe the 100nf as well) caps are dead. If you have one at least ne working drive, you can check the pcb's in it. If the drive refuses to work with the PCB you have put in you can assume that, if the reisitors are fine, the caps are dead. And doing it, no leaser tweak needs do be done! Replace the caps and check again in the woking drive.

Here's some small info on the bottom of the pic I attached. Xeno cam up with the design and such and then some one took that cloned it and named it Aladdin.

The Aladdin chips are clones of the XenoFX chips. And yes, there is also a version of the XenoFX with LC4064 chip on it called AXT Xenochip Pro. The one showed in the pic above the AXT32 Xenochip lite

Not possible. The one with LCD support use a LC4064. So even you add the pot nothing will happen. And if you use Ryzee's AladdinLCD (which will work if you mod the chip slightly (See he pic of a mod I made using a XenoFX which is the original (All aladdins are clones)) you lose the bios function (So you would need a TSOP flash).

Push pins aint come cheap and as a adapter..... How many dirt cheap pin header I can solder before I save a penny? (Side note: My last 100 2x6 male pin header was around 5 bucks euros.

Maybe bad caps. Post some pics of the MB.

XMugen. The other day someone on asked me about that on kleinanzeigen.de. ^^ Get a RaspPi4 for Mugen or find someone with enough Linux & XBox skills to fix the problem.

The loaders it self (Gentoox, Resctoox, XBlast) all wörk fine on any output. The problem is you can't launch any linux like Xebian for example. On the other hand why would you want to launch any super duper outdatet linux on the xbox now days?

Not possible atm.

Let me get this strait. You have softmoded the console which was before stock. Do you still have the modchip in? The solid amber/orange light indicates that the softmod works but it may is in conflict with your modchip.

Was it save to your soldering and hot air station there? Just watch out for the 110v version. Here's one on shebay : https://www.ebay.com/itm/225640197165

I usualy Set my hot air to 380°C with 30%-35% airspeed for desoldering with a bent 9mm nozzle. I pre-heat the surrounding a bit before I focus on the chip legs/pads. I always start at the bottom then the two on the upperside and then the last one on th ebottom. And as I wrote before it helps to work quick (but not rushingit) to keep the board "hot". So just flip the board over and remove the two chips on the upper side of the board in a couple of seconds. The flip it back again and remove the last chip. Here's the video : And there is always a sweet spot between time and heat. Saw some videos on YT about removing xbox am which say something like "Do not go higher than XXX°C" and at the same time in the same video they focus the head right on the top of the chip instead of the legs/pads. The lower the temp the longer it takes right? The higher you go up with temps the faster you remove the chip but you could also killing it by going to high and heating it up "wrong". The chip basicly can withstand some heat as long as you not try to cook it "Al dente" like noodles . And one importat point is, that the temp, time vary for the equiment you use (Writing this for other users which may read this). So 380°C on the here used Atten is maybe 420 on another hotair station or just 350 on another one. (Thats I guess one point no one realy tells you anything about used temps). Works for me - May not works for you. You are right, practicing on dead boards didn't show you if it works. How ever, you build up the skill needed. Once you acquired that skill on a dead board, which means you are happy how it looks, no bridges, no ripped pads etc. you can do it on working hardware without any doubt in your head (If that makes seens). Point here is, get a feel for when you rip pads, go and do it on pourpose on dead hardware. How to remove solder bridges, go and cover a chip solder and remove it then. Cut a trace and repair it. For all that you don't need anything else as a dead board. You then also don't need any of those soldering test thingy things. Loosing fear (not the respect) is key and to understand how things work. If you got that, things become easy. And since you bought the tips I have, you DO NT NEED any other. Everthing can be done with these 6 tips. And do not buy the ACHI6500. Waste of money imo. If you want a IR Station aim for the Achi ir pro sc (Or scotle as it's called now). Yeah coast a penny more but at the end you would need to update the 6000/6500 with new heaters, mod thhe station blablabla which then costs you more.

That should not be a problem. As I writen in a different topic it should harm the XBox when soldering a ram chip the wrong way. A guy on eBay from which I bought ram chips, did that on his xbox and nothing happend to it. Anyway, if you can solder a GPU I could send you one or two or three for free since I have a couple of them for each version.

I was at the assumtion that you alreay bought a frontpanel and your wife will kick out of the door when you buy more. But, if you feel better, I can write you next time I see something new. Not to sure here. Saw it a couple of times starting with 300,- €. I feel sad for that poor little xbox.

On kleinanzeigen.de was one the other day with x3cp for 379,- euros but with a smartxx v2 in it. Would still prefere another XBCase over the X3cp even those XBCases are ultra long sales.

As a resin print it should look decent I assume but I guess it would come cheap. But that x3cp for 1300,- € is just ridiculous expensive.

If you know how, you can also super glue em. I would like to say It's basicly pretty hard to kill a ram chip when desoldering but I know that ppl have killed em by cooking them to dead (#IR soldering? LÖL). I personaly never killed one, not by removing them with hor air, soldering with the iron or even through esd by touching them and not beeing grounded. And killing a board by soldering a "dead" ram chip is highly unlikely. Even if you solder the chip the wrong way it would just kill the chip, not the board (proven by someone I bought some chips of). So if you kill your entire board by soldering 1 ram chip well, don't be mad at me but, I would say you doing something very wrong. And reflowing with hot air or IR is not bad but not good either. Point here is you apply a lot of heat just because of bad soldering in the first place. I have a video on my YT channel where I remove ram. Since you have the same HA station you could just copy and past and be sure the ram will still work. After removing the first chip don't let the board cool down, flip it remove the next and so on (And heat the board, not the chip). Brigdes behint the pins is possible sure but also highly unlikely at least in my opinion. Guess you will win a lottiery before you end up with bridged pads behind the legs not seeing it. And ofc you have had a chance to see it but (yeah start to hate me) you prefered to buy TV's before a scope. Was a good trade of? I would say this (and others here may too) 1: Get your tools 2: Learn 3: Rapair 4: Sell 5: Buy shit you like. And belive it or not, seeing how others do it helps a lot. It's still different when you do it your self the first time but it helps to understand and see how it should be done. And rushing things (Yeah, seems you rushing things a lot and didn't pay to much attention on things (# Your TSOP Topic for example)) DO NOT HELP - AT ALL! (You're free to hate me even more yet). And ofc we all (maybe with the exception of @SS_Dave who I belive has alsready soldered in his moms belly before he was born ) has fucked up things one or two times. And some times you do it right and it still didn't work. You start over and then it works and you has not done anything different. Thats live. Finaly gaining skills. Grab a dead board,desolder parts, solder em back, repeat. And it also dosnt matter how you solder as long as it works for you and didn't kill parts. You are (by your own words) still afraid of causing bridges when drag soldering. Fuck that, bridges are the least thing you should be afraid of cause they are the simplest thing to remove. And if even you don't like dragsoldering at all, it also does not matter if you solder pin by pin as long as it works. The only real difference is you need more time by doing so nothing else. More skill will come over time so you may should give your self some time to learn no matter how long it takes. I presume that you will lought hard at your self in a year compairing your work you did these days with the work you will do then. A short anecdote. When I startet Dave said something like soldering the ram chip no. 4 (the one in front of the GPU) is a pain in the ass to do (Guess he ment that from a beginners point of view). Today I think it's just a walk in the park to solder that chip. Didn't take longer or is more complicatet as the others but that came over time (Important point!) like many other things.

Flux didn't causes shorts. I mean it could but dont. I have done boards full recap + ram upgrade and cleaned it after the last test. board "full" of flux. Work on your soldering skills, and do not splash solder anyware. And ofc if you bridge (for example) 2 wrong pins on a ram chip it kills the chip. IR soldering ram? Do you realy want an answer to that qustion? I mean what? Why? Gaining skill is to hard? You have the tools on hand, learn how to use them. And with IR soldering you fuck up even more since you have to learn how to use it as well (Check RIP Felix Channel for some funny entertainment about it (Cudos to him though!). And here, watch, lörn, practice and watch, lörn and practice again to become better: IR soldering ram - löl.

Do you also have soldered the point on the bottom of the board? Have you checked with the multimeter that both points (top/bottom) are soldered?

Use rockys SMT. And you dont need any game when A chip is present to launch the exploid. Copy the 21585554 folder to E:\UDATA (IF the folder is already there delete it first!). Then navigate to " E:\UDATA\21585554\000000000000\softmod files\ and launch the UX.xbe which is in that folder.

First softmod and then going from there to TSOP.