Leaderboard

That part really sucks. I've recently been cataloging and digitally archiving all my old family photos (going back to the 60's). There's thousands. And digitizing VHS tapes. I couldn't imagine losing all that stuff. Sorry for your loss of this stuff. I'm sure there's other folks, but the 1st name that pops into my head for getting a new HDMI-kitted Xbox would be @ModzvilleUSA (https://twitter.com/modzvilleusa) Just FYI, there's about to be two new options for internal/digital HDMI mods. OXHD (by Ryzee and Harcroft) and an HDMI project being worked on by Nemesis. Both are close to being done. Point being- if you wait a bit you'll have more options beyond MakeMHZ to choose from.

Its a full set in that it has at least one version of every game released. If I had included all the foreign language games then I would of had MANY complaints saying the exact opposite of what you said. I did contemplate adding them but as the VAST MAJORITY of users would prefer not to have them I decided against it. A lot of PAL releases contain multi language anyway. Plus as @Dempsey_86 says there was usually some form of censorship IF a German release was made. Better to have the main PAL release every time imo if you must insist on not having the NTSC version. Also consider the fact that many German, French etc people also do speak and read English very well as a second language. That is correct however I did add a couple of the alternate releases from the Repackinator Alt database, but only as I already had the files downloaded for personal use.

If they had extra content, I would agree with you. But censorship is not content, it's deliberately breaking a game in my opinion. (I know it's a law in Germany). I always need to watch out if I buy 2nd hands games, that it's not a German release.

I did not download the set, but I assume @nikeymikey did a full set as in the main set json in repackinator. This set is build like this: Full NTSC set + all PAL exclusives + all JPN exclusives There is no reason to add french or german games because they are the same game as the NTSC versions. Most of the time they are inferior because there is no 480p support in some of them or they dont have the english langue in them. NTSC is always the better version of the game.

After bought and flash CPLD in Aladdin Advance(was selling as XT2+) I've need figure out why fragging my 1.6 consoles. Debugging with datasheet of LC4032V I've discover jumper between B8 and B10(L1 and D0 respectively in XT)... Just cut B8 trace and solder wire directly in pin leg. Profit!

The 'ideal' temperature is, in theory, as low as possible for any PC or games console. Reported temperatures are a matter of question as I suggested in the previous post too and those can vary with Xbox version too. UnleashX and EvoX dashboard temperatures, particularly with v1.6 Xboxes are suspect but are still good for comparison purposes ie. if your normal temperatures suddenly increase without any obvious environmental cause then it is a matter of concern even if the actual figures are unreliable. With any Xbox dashboard you shouldn't be worried if at default fan speed (20%) it reports CPU/GPU as high as 60°C/140°F as it might well do at the height of summer and a long gaming session in a room at 30°+C. You can always switch the fan speed up and, typically, that will reduce the temperatures by about five degree Centigrade with each 20% step. But a retail Xbox fan at 100% is not a quiet thing. With XBMC I'd suggest you do what I do and that is set it to automatic temperature control with the aim temperature as 50°C/122°F and the lowest speed as 20%. In a temperate climate that will keep the fan speed at 20% for much of the year and, obviously, at or below the aim temperature.

Well, It's basically done. I didn't get the DVD "Ready" light to work (it kept fucking with my DVD ROM drive and making it act funny), but I did get the activity light going, separate from the HDD activity LED. LAN is there as well. The two on the left are the RX and TX LEDs for the Super IO debugger. I'll test more tomorrow with the XDK and debugging through LAN, but it looks like this project is good

I got the debugger working. First, some pins were loose on the SMSC chip linking to the LPC pins. Now, it will not work with the 1.4 board I'm trying to use, because the LFrame via is borked. I already know, man. I gouged the shit out of it. Anyway, if I have to use the 1.0 that I used here to test the unit, then I will, but I'm gonna try to get the 1.4 Lframe working. Project is back on track and the BOM I posted is good.

The guy I bought it off of had definitively replaced the paste already and I already re-pasted it again after pulling the heat sinks towards the beginning of this adventure. I may have schmooed a little too much on there or not cleaned them well enough. I didn't have to pry at all to remove the heat sinks so I doubt I damaged the chips. From all the reading I've done on these systems, they seem to be surprisingly durable but also super finicky. Invisible trace rot, bad caps with no signs, stupid disk drives. It all seems fixable, but stupid hard to diagnose. I ordered more thermal paste and I'm gonna drown those chips in ISO soon

Without mosfet: https://github.com/Team-Resurgent/aladdin-xt-cpld/tree/master/1MB_LPCmod_OSSupport

This should be fixed with an upcoming firmware (Aladdin xblasts are confirmed to be fixed… so assume this should be too)

As you are using Cerbios, try a CCI file of the game and see if that works for you.

don't forget pixelfx is also making their retrogem compatible with Xbox. lots of options very soon

If you just did the those I mentioned (and of course any that looked suspect) you’ll probably be fine for a while. Just thought I’d mention the full recap as an option for down the road. If you run in to issues finding the cpu caps on the board dm me your revision or a pic of the mobo and I can give you the locations and values. For the rf shielding I thought you might find this useful. Quite a few people chimed in with different methods they use (sanding, painting, replacing, etc).

Thanks a mill FrostyMaGee! for all the great info and offer in further guidance. It has been a hell of a journey to say the least.In between reading posts, I managed to get one XBox back to stock and softmodded and upgraded the drive. I ordered the IDE(PATA) adapter 6 years ago along with the 80pin ribbon cable, so was all good to go. Had a few 2TB WD green drives that checked all the boxes. I know you said avoid them but they are very quiet and I haven't noticed any stalling when playing or loading - so far. After my negative experience above with the wrong unlock/lock adapter, I had the workflow down pat playing around with the Warmstor brand IDE adapter from eBay, FATXplorerBeta64 and XBoxHDM-2.3-Beta4 (on the borked but recovered drive above). Quick and easy. Did not tick the right box in FATXplorerBeta64 to format the drive correctly so quickly doing that gave access to the whole drive. Managed to rip most of my games onto the HDD (a few refused to work) and have been a happy chappy since. If anyone needs a link to the IDE unlock adapter in Oz, do let me know. The clock capacitor has been removed on this baby, but I need to replace the x3 caps near the CPU/GPU - thermal paste replaced on both chips. Parts coming in from abroad. Another XBox had a flashing orange ring after cleaning copious filth upon opening and stopped working - was working seemigly ok with carpets of filth - with the orange light indicator and refusing to show an image and then completely blank. I narrowed it down and replaced the ADM1032 Temperature Monitor with this https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/temperature-humidity-sensor-ics/7919623, which may have been indicating overheat and causing the issue. I ripped pads and spent a week micro-soldering to recreate connections but managed to get it onfor continuity. I'll confirm all is working once the caps come in so I can recap both xboxes and then add a 2TB to this one, too. Two remaining questions I have: 1. The damaged caused over time by clock and other cap leakage should not be underestimated. I have been lucky with these two I have and will ensure I get to all the other caps in time. Please please please remove the clock cap at minimum. Apart from the four caps I will have replaced, are there others that have a tendency to do the above mentioned damaged? 2. There seems to be a lot of corrosion/rust on the metal suppoprt frame at the bottom or near the fan. I tried soaking in baking soda but that did not help - maybe I should make the bath more acidic? If anyone has any experience with this corrosion any advice would be appreciated

Absolutely, it's on my list. I've already been able to pick up the other Tolkien games. Looking forward to getting the Third Age.

Welcome! Since you said you enjoy rpgs I thought I’d recommend Lord of the Rings: The Third Age. It’s an rpg I really enjoyed on the original Xbox.

Just done a v1.1 myself. Did get a bridge on chip 3 and whilst going to test on a Jafar loaded with Xblast, it started beeping. Just for future reference. All good now, just wicked it away. Quite easy to spot if you look at a cut across of the board at the chip pins, you've added.

Definitely a real thing I've seen in many youtube vids. I most recently saw an lcd temp display on the front of a console. A bit of an eye sore, but a very nice feature.

Hello everyone!, Blz? I'm doing a port of "The Orange Box" For OG Xbox using the official port of HALF-LIFE 2, The Project is already 90% finished and I'm in the last step which is REPACKAGE the files to .XZP (Only)....... In it will include; HALF-LIFE 2 (With some improvements), EPISODE ONE, EPISODE TWO AND PORTAL.... Does not contain TEAM FORTRESS 2 due to Xbox being too weak for it If someone help me create a repackager of .XZP files the game will be completed, anyone available?

Time to annoy Cerbios devs to include that now. Lol /s

im in now

... That's pretty lackadaisical considering what it is you just said. Dude I am so SORRY. That would be a point of mourning in my life for fucking decades. I have one in a Halo edition. Not sure I am willing to sell since I'm a bit attached to it, but who knows, I'll think on it. What all was lost?

Download took about 12h - which is good for me. Extracting took another 10h - now my co2-footprint is very high At least I dont have to ftp all these files.

As I said my personal preference is at or over 60C or 140F at anytime but especially under load. If it was popping over that I’d pull the thermal pads and either replace with the same or go with very good quality thermal paste. That’s just me though. If you’re under that and notice no performance issues then I’d leave well enough alone. Plus you could always kick up your fan speed incrementally and see how that goes. Even a 10 percent bump in speed from default can make a difference. Again, while I have my personal preference on max temps before I do stuff @HDShadow has some great advice above that you can easily heed and be good to go. Shadow and I have some times differed on whether doing thermal paste is worth it at all (once or twice maybe when the subject comes around lol) but I can say I 100 percent agree with his summation above.

Signed up to comment on this. Awesome job can't wait to see. I love playing Half-Life 2 on OG xbox. This might be a strange request, but would you be able to have Portal broken off into its own game/ISO? I would love to put it on its own disc and make a custom cover art etc for it separate from Half-Life. Maybe you could have Portal separate, and include the Portal Still Alive game with it. That would be awesome!

Debugger wired up with relocated TX & RX LEDs Quite the shitstorm of wires, I know. But as long as they're never seen... fuck it. I'll hide the wires better Here it is. SuperIO RX and TX lights working on the left. On the right side, from left to right: DVD activity, DVD Ready, HDD activity, LAN activity. This was a long project, but worth the work. I wanted to do a Development kit, but with a little more than the LAN debugging that came with the regular Debug kit. This more like a mix between the DXT-2 (Debug Kit) and DXT-4 (Development kit). The DXT-4 had serial debugging at the kernel level, as opposed to just LAN. I still have a ways to go with my Windows XP SDK setup, but the console is done. I wanted to internalize the serial debugger, so I did, keeping things neat. The only thing is, I would not have view of the Transmission/Receiving LEDs if I did so, so I soldered molexes to the SMD LED pads on the debugger and relocated the LEDs up front. At first I had issues with the debugger, but I managed to finally find some loose pins on the SMSC chip on the debugger linking the chip to the LPC. Once that was fixed, I had to swap out the 1.4 board I was planning to use with a 1.0, since I determined that Lframe could not be made to work on the 1.4. I basically trashed the via on the edge of the MCPX and couldn't repair it. JESUS that thing is fragile. So I plugged it into the 1.0 and I got output through Windbg. Awesome. Then I saw the video of the status LED array and wanted to do the same thing, so I did. A very statusy and verbose console I have here. I call it the DXT-5. Lol. Obviously the console is upgraded to 128MB of RAM. The SuperIO debugger case is printed green (off color but still) as well as the fan shroud. Also printed some green feet since 3 were missing and the one remaining was falling off. The clips used for the LEDs are 3D printed as well. I went with PETG instead of resin, since I have shit luck with resin and everything I make with it turns into crap. lol. The software setup is TSOP flashed Cerbios 2.3.2 Hybrid flagged as debug in the ini. I wanted to keep the LPC free for the SuperIO ribbon. You can do an LPC breakout and have both the debugger and a modchip, but it served no purpose for me and I wanted as much space as possible. I have a PBL out to retail (XBMC) and will create a shortcut in the future so that I can load XBMC straight from the XDK if I need to debug through it for whatever reason. The HDD structure is just like my other HDDs and consoles. 2TB with XBMC as the main and based on the Origins image. The debug flag in the ini is what gets me to boot into teh XDK dash. However, I still need to learn to code, so I will probably start with hello world, and then write my first app installing and then enabling or disabling the FPS overlay DXT extension. The USB-C breakout I used is here: https://www.adafruit.com/product/4090 This is what fits into the Rear USB-C breakout board mount STL I included in the bundle. Buy one, it's only a few bucks, but get the 1 Ft cable, too. Forgive me for not doing a pinout, but a pinout can be done yourself with a multimeter and a cable with the wires exposed on one end and the other plugged into the jack. That's what I did. You have to put the cable through the RF shield and then solder the wires to the board... unless you wanna just cut some of the grille off the RF shield. However, you do need to fit it into one of the bottom vents (the bottom left, looking at it from the inside of the case) and you will see a channel in the fan for the USB cable to go through. Line it up with that. I have included in this package all the 3D prints, wiring diagrams and info (Gerber, BOM) for the SuperIO debugger that I used to make this development kit. If you need anything, ask me. Debug Kit Goodie Bundle: https://mega.nz/file/JqdiFTqb#Ca4eF9tDnwTdIUDDyewTpFyj7p-Jqa73LLHCZmvV5jU

I found it. Lan and HDD activity LEDs have cathodes to the solder points, with resistors. DVD activity are anode to points. I need to take a closer look and see why this is not working. I suspect a short. I will try to ask him for gerbers of the PCB and parts, but I think that this is his baby.

The HDD and LAN activity LEDs have the cathode go to the point indicated. DVD points, however, must have anodes go to the point.

I’ve never actually seen one with a refurbished sticker. I would generally disregard unless they give a detailed list of the work done to them and it includes a recap. For any I’ve ever sold I never called them refurbished and always listed a very detailed sheet of things done (including an itemized list of caps replaced including location, values, brand, etc) and photos of the work inside and out. Half the Xboxes I’ve seen of late with the claim of “refurbished” appear to have been opened up and blown out with a can of compressed air. Somehow that’s “refurbished”. Lol Btw, how did these people leave a psu screw out? They’re only two in it. LOL. It shouldn’t be missing any but I could maybe understand if one was missing from say the mobo. Maybe. The broken tabs for the heat sinks and no screws for one of the dual controller ports…unacceptable. I’d expect that in a parts box only.

Yes, but then you should not call it "Full Redump Set" because its not. For sure, NTSC is the best to go with. But for the german ones they are diffrent - mostly censored - which makes it kinda a diffrent game

Thank you so much @nikeymikey for your effort. But its not a full redump set - there are missing alot of european games, like the german and french ones.

I found this usb c to xbox controller port adapter on AliExpress: https://a.aliexpress.com/_Euz8mmF I think it would be a nice fit for this project!

Idk either but thank you, I'll give it a shot ASAP. Gotta order some more thermal paste first. If that's all it ends up being, I'll be thrilled

To create a properfly formatted version for a game's XISO disc image, run the XISO to HDD Installer script in XBMC4Gamers. Upload the XISO files to the Games folder on your Xbox, run the script. It will prompt you for the source folder of the disc images. It then moves each to a game named subfolder and places the attach app named default.xbe file in each subfolder.

This is all in work so to quote author “yes just usual clause of use at own risk hehe ” (referring to my question of can I share repo) so use are own risk. 2mb version will require a yet to be released version of Prom 1mb mosfet should fix D0 https://github.com/Team-Resurgent/aladdin-xt-cpld/tree/master/1MB_LPCmod_OSSupport_MosfetD0

Yes you can... However, you will be limited to UDMA 2 speeds, reliably. You can either flash the UDMA 2 version of Cerbios for the time being, or flash UDMA 6 to get prepared for the cable and just boot into safe mode using the eject button to power on. Using UDMA 6 will definitely result in an error.

fyi, what lopenator and bowlsnapper said about the d0 on an aladdin is true. If you want to be sure, you can desolder the yellow wire from the chip and solder it to a ground. This way you are sure the console does always boot from the chip. (ground can be one of the screw posts)

Acquired in Aliexpress, from link I've see in another thread, selled and printed label as XT Plus 2 but all pcb layout is from "XenoFX", or Aladdin Advance, same piece of sh*t hahaha Yes, CPLD needs a new code to use 1mb BIOS(PrometheOS/XBlastOS). What's firmware? Here in all my tests, only "Aladdin_XBlast.svf" works(in both, XT and Advance), it's same as old "1MB OSSUPPORT.SVF" from Kekule's Github... No one from Team Resurgent works, IDK why.

Nothing else should be necessary, Extract the downloaded zip file Drop that "Toonami Aftermath for XBMC" folder into your Xbox's C drive, or any location that has space. Using the file browser in XBMC4Xbox, locate the folder and open any of the .strm files inside I'm new to this round of Xbox mods but back in the earlier 2000's there was a OS called Xbox Media Center (XBMC). It was the go to way to turn your Xbox into the center piece of your home theater. It had all sorts of addons to enable live TV, web streams, Youtube and loads of community content. XBMC evolved into what is now known as Kodi, and XBMC4Xbox was created to further XBMC on the og Xbox while Kodi branched off to every other device known to man. XBMC4Xbox was dropped around 10 years ago, and now we are onto XBMC4Gamers which only has the gaming focused side of the original XBMC4Xbox, but at least it's getting support I don't know how many, if any, of the XBMC addons work in XBMC4Xbox or XBMC4Gamers, but I do know of someone who is trying to update XBMC. Or maybe he's gonna rebuild it from scratch?

But why sad? Shouldn't it be exciting to see the OG xbox getting some new life? And yeah, you nailed it. Those files basically contain the URL to the actual stream location of https://www.toonamiaftermath.com/ Way back when, there was a XBMC addon that supported Toonami Aftermath more natively but using the file browser is the only way I found that still works. Toonami Aftermath itself is a recreation of Toonami from back in it's hey-day. It's got EST and PST streams that are identical except for the PST being a couple hours behind. I enjoy running it on a Xbox through a CRT for a extra nostalgia hit

If you all you wanna watch is Toonami Aftermath, you can dump the attached folder on your Xbox and use the file browser to open the .strm files Toonami Aftermath for XBMC.zip

Doesn't hurt to inspect the solder work as a sanity check though. I had a 1.6 with a shitty rebuild that got artifacts and froze. After I rebuilt the rebuild and fixed the lpc header it worked. Probably not their issue but you never what job was done.

The 2Tb sata upgrade makes sooo much difference. I love having games running on it and not having to use the dvd drive. I’ve had it that way for far too many years and have been spoiled by it. Lol. Oh and that warmstor adapter has been one of the most consistent adapters I’ve used for locking/unlocking the ide hdds since my old usb adapter died a few years back. I’ve never run in to an ide hdd it didn’t work with using fatxplorer or Xboxhdm. When you get to the hdd upgrade stage you’ll need an 80 wire 40 pin ide cable to replace the stock cable, a sata to pata adapter for the hdd (startech preferred unless you have one of the dvd drives that doesn’t play well with those and then usually the green Chinese brand works. The most important feature is to have a master/slave pin designation option as you’ll need this), and obviously a sata drive. If you stay mechanical something like a WD Blue or Black works well. Avoid any of the green or power saving type hdds. If you’re not building a new drive via fatxplorer or Xboxhdm and plan on using Chimp to clone your old drive then you’ll also need a molex splitter or you can use the power from the warmstor adapter to power the sata drive during the cloning process. It’s an easy process and everyone here can make recommendations on hardware and help out with the process when you get ready to proceed. Best of luck and glad you were able to get the current stuff straightened out!

Hey, I've been watching your progress for a couple days now, I cannot wait for this to release! Amazing stuff.

Yes, I usually only post when there is a big update, at the moment I'm without my PC, so I can't go very far, but I have 2 maps from Episode 1, and 2 from Episode 2 running successfully.... Portal is already running all (missing models and textures).... When I get another PC I will start making optimizations on the episode 2 maps to be able to run them all on the Xbox with a good frame rate and all the content (or almost everything).

Down to 9. I am currently in the hospital (for my Wife) so I may be a bit more slow to respond... but I will! (on a plus side... Our family has grown by one). @roastedRingwormI haven't forgotten about you... and yours are set aside and not included in the 9. I should get with you by the end of week (so far been extended 2 more days in the hospital)

Hi all, I have decided to fill some of my spare time ( just need to find some) with getting back into the OG XBOX and modding. Hoping that I can find all the tools I need here. I have my old XBOX ready to go Wish me luck im going in

Hi ! I'm from Italy, i have my Xbox since when i was a kid and now that i have some time i want to bring back to life my old Xbox. It's nice to that the Xbox is still alive !

I installed all KODI music addons and MOST of them work without problems, For KODI video addons some works but all video are in 720p and xbox can't play this with a stable frame rate.