Leaderboard

Hey, I've done a RAM upgrade on one of my consoles (1.4) and it's doing the on/off/on/off/on flash orange and red dance. I've reflowed the chips, scoured them with a magnifying glass for bridging and the rest of the board for splashes, and scrubbed the board with IPA hoping that if it was a splash, it'd be knocked loose, but I've had no luck. I'm at the point where I think it might just be some bad memory, so what would be the best way to remove the chips without damaging or moving the surrounding components?

Flux is like thermal paste - A relgion. Now day's it's like some repair guy on YT say's I use this and ppl start saying this is the one and only. So I totaly agree with your " works for me and my style of working, may not work for you". And it's the same when it comes to leaded solder vs lead free and which brand or at which temp you solder or which tip is the best for the job. How ever, for beginners or hobbyists it's pretty hard to find recommendations because of that. At the end a lot comes down to your skills and your will to learn (And if you plan to do those things more often or just one or two times a year). Will say, someone who has build up experience over years can solder with pretty much anything (even when he still thinks "that iron sucks" right?). A beginner with 10k equiment would still suck at simple jobs. I remember my very first ram upgrade. It took me 1 1/2 days and a lot of " I can do that, I can do that". Now I do that stuff in round about 30 min incl. testing & coffee break (. Pretty funny when I think back. And I'm still using the same "cheap" YIHUA 862d+ station for soldering which, I plan to replace in the near future (Probably with a station from JBC). Is it possble that it smells a bit in here? Some please turn on the fume extractor.

Hakko solder station + Quick here and love the combo. Reball machine is used way less since quick was added to the family Hakko: Have had this one since about 2013 and same tips in extremely good condition prolly 5,000 ish repairs mods on this single station. Quick only have a year with it with almost 1k repairs / mods and it works like new (Been going hard on repairs this year) mostly switches (Replaced an Ayoue with the Quick and man what a difference in quality) If one breaks I will replace with the same model. For me its not money its finding a combo with high success rate and this is it for me. Was amtech guy but after reballing 10 years kingbo was best in the end and stuck with that. I use that for all my mods, repairs, reballs, and consoles.

Xenium-Programmer-SMD Made a revision to the original Xenium Programmer. Now shows you which step you’re on in the programming process. And the Power LED functions correctly (showing you when pi is powered up and running vs just has power available) thoughts?

I think the only things to say are, even the expensive rework stuff, and by that I mean 100’s of $€£, even if you can afford them may not be 100% right for you. I have one of the relatively expensive Weller workstation, not the retail ones the ones sold only to the Defence industry and its contractors. Its a beautiful thing. But in all the years of owning it I have used my cheap Atten irons and the cheap one one on my Chinese rework station more. Just down to convenience. The other thing to say is dont look at a rework station and think, thats just a heatgun like in <insert your countries DIY chain> . Its not, that 5 dollarbucks thing they sell , has no heat regulation no actual adjustability out side just turning down the fan speed, so theres no knowing if its at 300c or 400c, unless you buy an IR temp probe. If you do that just spend the money on a cheap rework hot gun station instead, saves the hassle and guess work. Footnote, not all flux is the same, and not everyone is right, as its personal taste when it come to flux. What “ works” for me and my style of working, may not work for you.

LOL only shite if not done correctly. Its the same as so many of the youtube videos that say the phat 360’s are all crap. Again only if reballed wrongly or xclamped or cooked in yo mammas oven at gas mark 5.

I use my Quick 861DW hot air + Kingbo Flux to remove chips from donor boards. They come up in 20-30 seconds and after a few hundred 100% success. They have all worked on 128MB upgrades.

I would perhaps one day share the hdd tray, we will see. Anyway I've added the hdd tray to the rest, just need to finish the dvd drive bracket and I can start developing the case

Modified SMD Now I can program just the CPLD and Flash chips

I made a few changes to HeXEn 2017 to... well, update some of it. There's certainly a lot more that could be done, but I didn't feel like it was necessary to go all-out on it, since the disc is primarily just used for TSOP/modchip flashing and building new HDDs. But with flashing in mind, there were some issues that should have been addressed, which were 1) editing the EvoX M8+ BIOS files to disable the need for a DVD drive on boot up (because it makes no sense to keep that restriction enabled) and 2) removing the ability to flash iND-BiOS 5004.06 (F only), since it is apparently broken and just bricks the TSOP/modchip. Full changelog: - Changed the default.xbe's title to "HeXEn 2018". - New menu background image. - Main menu's network type is now set to DHCP. - Updated all EvoX M8+ .bin files (including sharp.bin) to remove the DVD drive check by default. - Removed iND-BiOS 5004.06 (F only) because it bricks the TSOP/modchip it is flashed to. - ind-bios.cfg now supports 480p by default. - Corrected an error which prevented the sharp.bin BIOS file from being copied to the HDD. - Partially rewrote the TSOP/modchip flash menus to make things more clear and to correct spelling/grammar. - Updated XBMC to include JCRocky5's 480p Game Loader scripts (useful if you have a 1.6 Xbox, otherwise it can be ignored). - Updated Chimp261812 to JCRocky5's latest release. - 1080i support is now disabled by default (because it slows the Xbox down if enabled). - UnleashX .xbe file replaced with a patched version that doesn't automatically create UDATA folders for all .xbe files it sees on the HDD. -Updated the main menu's skin.xml file to display more system information to the user (on the right-hand side of the screen), and changed the color scheme of the options menus, dialogue boxes, file explorer, keyboard, etc. to better match the background image (no more of UnleashX's default ugly blue scheme clashing with it). - Various other spelling and grammatical fixes. - Other general housekeeping. As for the rather bland new menu background, I had to go for a very minimalistic design, because I suck with Photoshop, lol. It gets the job done though. OGXbox download link. MEGA download link MediaFire download link