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Error 9 is said to be a rare Xbox flagged up fault. Never seen it myself until today. My newly successfully pin-headered v1.2/1.3 is destined for a TSOP. The only reason I put the pin-header in was to use the Aladdin chip to allow me to get the eeprom from the Xbox which I couldn't do almost any other way because it came with only an Error 16 HDD when I bought it. I used another Master HDD and Chimp 261812 to fix the Error 16 HDD as Slave BTW the Chimp 261812 Error 16 Fix option did not work. It just spewed out an endless stream of hdb error lines. I let it run for 15 minutes before accepting nothing was going to happen. However simply copying the dashboard to it worked and when installed as Master it booted without problems. Anyway come today: HDD locked with ConfigMagic v1.6.1 then returned to retail state, chip removed, D0 desoldered and wire 'capped'. I also replaced the IDE cable with a newer 80 wire one - that is the significant part in regard to the Error 9 matter but not what you might think. I boot the Xbox expecting so see the MS dash but no: Error 9:- 9 - kernel - HDD parameters (PIO/DMA/or size {debug}, certain size minimum is required for debug) Not very common error, please try another harddisk. Kept on doing it. I replaced everything, checked as working on another Xbox: IDE cable, DVD drive and DVD drive power cable. I tried using the unlocked HDD I'd used with Chimp, not the expected Error 5 but Error 7. This is typical of a problem with anything faulty attached to the IDE cable but I knew both the HDD, DVD drive and IDE cable were good. WTF? I found an old Error 9 thread on another forum that KaosEngineer had taken part in and what he said suggested it was indeed IDE cable issue, like a bent or missing pin. So I took everything apart, rechecked the cable on another Xbox, again, and checked the HDD and DVD drive pins hoping that none were broken. They were not. So what was left: the MB IDE socket. All looked OK then as I shone the torch/flashlight something glinted in the bottom of the socket. I thought it was a splash of solder or a broken pin or the number 4 pin from the pin header which I accidental dropped on removal (pretty sure I hadn't). But when I fished it out it was shiny, metallic looking but thin, flat and flexible. The only thing I could think it might be is a small piece of tinsel about the same length as a header pin. How it got there who knows? I haven't had tinsel in the house for years but whatever it was and however it got there it was conductive and must have been bridging two or more pins because once removed the Xbox booted perfectly, no Error 9 error. Yay! Still very annoying that such a minute thing could cause a problem it took me half a day fix.

There are currently 3 themes. If you want to make any you can. I have tried to make it as simple as I could to do. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1882rgEk4ZazrrC8Hl78c3Cb4jK0iBooB/view?usp=drivesdk Just replace textures and edit xml files to your liking. Then run the build theme.bat and it will do its thing. (Don’t change the name of the template files, they get renamed by the bat during the build process)

Try asking in the XboxDev Discord server. PM sent with invite link. Have a look at https://xboxdevwiki.net/Kernel and https://xboxdevwiki.net/Kernel/LaunchDataPage

Xplorer360: when you open it and choose the Drive > Open > HDD or Memorycard you should see a "Partition 0" in the left pane. Click on that to see the contents of the flash drive in the right pane. But if you've only just opened it, of course, nothing is going to be there. Xplorer360 is used to transfer the game save exploit and installer to the flash drive from your PC. Where this "4 NTFS folders" thing comes in: I assume that is a typo and should be NTSC. I believe it refers to the four exploitable games: MechAssault, SplinterCell, 007:AUF, and TH4. You do not need them all just one, depending on what original game's disc(s) you have. You don't copy the whole folder to the flash drive you must copy only the two numbered folders for the particular game concerned. For Splinter Cell that should be: 5553000c and 21585554. Those are all that should be on the flash drive. Those folders are best copied to the flash drive by dragging and dropping them in the right pane. Once done remove the flash drive in the approved manner and transfer it to the Xbox using a USB to controller port adapter. In the Xbox's Memory ie. game saves the drive should show up as a memory card. Click on that and you should see your two numbered saves and be able to copy them to the XBox's HDD. Voila, all ready for you to launch the game disc and open the softmod installer.

New version is up that will fix that error you are getting. I will check at my end Halo 2 with the DLC. edit: disable flicker filter patching in the programs settings menu and it will fix your issue.

Both of them hold alone except for one. The one. The one you see one the 2th picture close to the resistor and cap. But to hold it in place it's an easy task (Or tape it with scotch tape). You just need one hand for your gamepad and the job is done in under 30 secounds. And, you should aim for very small needles like the one on the right side. Some kynar 30 and voilá, you can TSOP without soldering. :)

i just recently had a problem where a xbox i was softmoding would go blank at certain times. the fix for it was that i changed the a/v connection to the yellow, red, and white cables. the weird resolutions don't work so well with component/hdmi cables alot of the times. try that to finish the set up and then u can go back to high def cables.

Do you have a working DVD drive? And what hard drive have you got Was the Xbox softmodded before? Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Hello UserFriendly Welcome to ogxbox.com A lot of people like to have a hard copy of the games but yes they do take up space and with th DVD drives slowly dying the disks are becoming unusable these days. Especially when you can fit all the games on one hard drive there is no real need for the disks. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

A dot of conductive glue across the bridge points is so much easier. No possibility of burning a trace or pad off the motherboard.

Glad to see new blood running around the scene! It’s kind of a personal thing. But here’s how I rank them; 1.0 being the best. That GPU fan is pretty noisy, but can actually be replaced and the additional onboard fan header allows you to get pretty creative since, as you’ve seen, it’s not really necessary. Liquid cooling, extra fans, LEDs, Et cetera can all get jammed in there pretty easy. The 1.0 consoles also have the largest TSOP chips (1Mbit) so have much higher BIOS compatibility, and, if you’re so inclined you can actually install a switch onboard to toggle between BIOSES without a modchip at all. Be careful if you do choose to attempt this as some additional steps need to be taken not to damage the board. The LPC port in this model is fully intact, so if you do need to install a modchip for some reason you can use pretty much any one you can find. 1.1 comes with literally all the above benefits, minus the extra fan header. Power still runs across that portion of the board though, so if you want it can still be used, just slightly harder to do. One disadvantage of these early models is that they tend to have the hazardous Foxlink PSUs. Replace ASAP if you have one in a running console. Any console after these is a bit is a bit of a downgrade as they all have 256k TSOP chips at this point I believe. Some of them have Winbond or Sharp TSOP chips and are a bit harder to work with in that regard. 1.2 - 1.4 is pretty much the same and you’re not likely to see many. 1.5 is where things change a wee bit, as there are a couple pins removed from the LPC port and you’re likely to notice the problematic TSOP chips on these. 1.6 is easily the worst in terms of modding as you can only softmod. Modchips can be installed but you also have to rebuild almost of the LPC port in order to even attempt a modchip install. I will however admit that on their own I’ve found 1.6 to be the coolest (temperature wise) and quietest revision console. Edit: almost forgot the most important point! EVERY revision console besides 1.6 has leaky clock caps and will kill the board. They NEED TO BE REMOVED from your consoles. Given that and performance in terms of thermals these could be seen as the ideal revision, as long as you’re not doing much tinkering. Most people who just want to play games will fetch away with a softmod just fine. DVD drives are kind of all over the place but early consoles used the Thompson’s... they aren’t great. My ideal console would be a TSOP 1.0 with Phillips DVD drive and IND bios. I could probably go on but I’ll let you have your thread back haha