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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/10/2019 in all areas

  1. And, the SMD transistor (Q7C2) between the clock cap and Xyclops chip had 3.3Vdc present on the collector (pin labeled C below). ____ B --| | | |-- C E --| | ------ Updated: Added a better picture of the transistor from the ONSemiconductor datasheet. They are one manufacturer of this part - MMBT4403LT1 (part labeling 2T). Another Xbox Repair Manual states that the replacement part is an MMBT3906LT1 (part labeling 2A). Odd, not sure why it would not power on. Next, check the voltage level present at the PowOn control line of the motherboard PSU connector. Does it go high (3.3 or 5Vdc) when you press the power button and is low (0Vdc) when not pressed?
    1 point
  2. Thanks for measuring the voltage levels. I guess part of the system does still have 3.3Vdc in standby (while off). MS changed the voltage supply level that runs to pin 6 of the LPC debug port. Pre-1.6 consoles have a switched 5Vdc level while 1.6 versions have a constant 5Vdc present as long as AC power is connected. The 3.3Vdc must still run to the clock circuitry as it did in previous versions of the console. I need to see if I can track down (someday really soon now ) where the 3.3Vdc blue wire runs to on the motherboard.
    1 point
  3. When your tring to solder to a circuit board and you damage it don't despair most stuff up's can be fixed If you have ripped the trace off the Xbox circuit board you need to STOP and try to relax, Walk away from the job for a minute or ten or more if neaded This is the trace that is damaged and need's to be repaired. This is a pic of a undamaged PCB same location. The red wire is what was suposed to happen 1st step Clean off the paint. I cheated and used a Glass fiber pen to do that but gentley scraping the track is ok you only nead to remove the paint. 2nd Step Add flux to the board 3rd Tin the trace 4th Prep the wire you are going to use. I use wirewrap wire for a repair like this one as it's a single strand. 5th Tin and trim the wire. I should have trimed it a bit shorter 6th Lay the wire on the tinned trace and apply heat. 7th Clean up the PCB Now rince and repeat for the other end. Once you have tested it and your happy a small dob of hot melt glue or even a dob(pin head sise) of super glue to stop the wire moving. Not on the solder joint say 5 to 10mm(1/4 inch) from the solder joint.
    1 point
  4. Totally agree to that. I got added to the order on E*T*S*Y just 2 days ago and looking forward for beeing cordless on an 16 years old XBOX OG. Just some offtopic, the OG Xbox was only used during my study between 2006 and 2012, we had a lot of fun, especially with Mario Kart 64 and Fifa07. My roommates loved this box. In 2006 I softmodded with ltools procedure and placed a 200GB IDE HDD locked to it. Since I got more and more *.mkv files even XBMC was not used anymore by me or my wife. My twins are currently getting older and I bought an Xbox360 RGH with 2TB, of course only for Backups But I realized early, for some stuff (a lot actually) my OG XBox is better, so I decided to do some rework. The box is now completely reworked: TSOP with IND 5004.76 2TB SATA incl. SATA Adapter and better IDE cable Flashed and Modified LG8163b DVD (AllesFresser) Removed Capacitor Placed a quiet 70mm fan (80mm seems also to work but the thermal tunnel is broken, so temp is getting higher than before) New Themal Paste Ghostware Collections (SNES / N64/ SegaGenesisiMegaDrive) XBox HDD Ready Collection OpCoins Premium Elite In Progress: Xbox360 Controller for OGBox Todo: 128MB RAM Upgrade 720p xbe adjustement for "tested" games Truely, I think I spend many many hours to get back into especially to have lovely hours playing with my kids, but from an financial perspective it was non-sense (but fun) BR Mopped
    1 point

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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