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  1. I made a few changes to HeXEn 2017 to... well, update some of it. There's certainly a lot more that could be done, but I didn't feel like it was necessary to go all-out on it, since the disc is primarily just used for TSOP/modchip flashing and building new HDDs. But with flashing in mind, there were some issues that should have been addressed, which were 1) editing the EvoX M8+ BIOS files to disable the need for a DVD drive on boot up (because it makes no sense to keep that restriction enabled) and 2) removing the ability to flash iND-BiOS 5004.06 (F only), since it is apparently broken and just bricks the TSOP/modchip. Full changelog: - Changed the default.xbe's title to "HeXEn 2018". - New menu background image. - Main menu's network type is now set to DHCP. - Updated all EvoX M8+ .bin files (including sharp.bin) to remove the DVD drive check by default. - Removed iND-BiOS 5004.06 (F only) because it bricks the TSOP/modchip it is flashed to. - ind-bios.cfg now supports 480p by default. - Corrected an error which prevented the sharp.bin BIOS file from being copied to the HDD. - Partially rewrote the TSOP/modchip flash menus to make things more clear and to correct spelling/grammar. - Updated XBMC to include JCRocky5's 480p Game Loader scripts (useful if you have a 1.6 Xbox, otherwise it can be ignored). - Updated Chimp261812 to JCRocky5's latest release. - 1080i support is now disabled by default (because it slows the Xbox down if enabled). - UnleashX .xbe file replaced with a patched version that doesn't automatically create UDATA folders for all .xbe files it sees on the HDD. -Updated the main menu's skin.xml file to display more system information to the user (on the right-hand side of the screen), and changed the color scheme of the options menus, dialogue boxes, file explorer, keyboard, etc. to better match the background image (no more of UnleashX's default ugly blue scheme clashing with it). - Various other spelling and grammatical fixes. - Other general housekeeping. As for the rather bland new menu background, I had to go for a very minimalistic design, because I suck with Photoshop, lol. It gets the job done though. OGXbox download link. MEGA download link MediaFire download link
    32 points
  2. OGXBox Installer 2021 THIS INSTALLER DISC ONLY WORKS FROM A BURNED DVD DISC, NOT MOUNTING THE DISC IMAGE SAVED TO THE HARD DRIVE Made because ... ! First of, you have the choice between two versions. 1) PBL which uses Phoenix Bios Loader and 2) NonPBL without the Phoenix Bios Loader. Both versions aim mainly for ModChip/TSOP users. So you don't have the options to softmod. If you want that, go with Rocky5's Softmodding Tool. Why using this this instead hof HeXEn/TruHeXEn or Slayers? Well, good question and here is the answer. It's faster as all of them. It dosn't has faulty bioses on it. It's up to date and it offers way, way more to install as any of them. So you have planty of Apps, Dashboards or Emulators to install and a huge amount of bug free bioses (ModChip and TSOP incl. Winbond). It's simple build without any fancy code or the need of copy stuff over and over again. It's clean by default which means no temp files will left behind. You have planty of live apps you can use or just test before you install them. Just give this installer a chance, test it and I think you don't use anything else again (except for softmodding which I don't plan to integrate at all.). NOTE: Use folder links below to download the latest OGXbox Installer 2021 - v1.5.4 archive or other supporting files. 1 ) OGXBox Installer 2021 UX PBL v1.0.0 MD5 for the v1.0.0 ISO: b844a24f31c0c8f41325e783d50f9d1a MD5 for the v1.0.0 RAR: 50ae7369f08a972601c4c75260965532 Download from 1fichier : https://1fichier.com/?44oryacyh292q6t7rbzd Folder link for updates : https://1fichier.com/dir/mX1kipIz Download from Mega : https://mega.nz/file/AZ9zESba#otk8Ckf5LlvkKkw1ty4GIsVyDRnxhuCfZu4M6YqLC4w Folder link for updates : https://mega.nz/folder/xUl13A4B#d_RMbhNrNA81QhgwoaUv4g 2) OGXBox Installer 2021 UX v1.0.0 MD5 for the v1.0.0 ISO: e82dacd9b36f496e85c98b3935462f52 MD5 for the v1.0.0 RAR: d463ac6e8ce9829469c962b790f8d8e0 Download from 1fichier : https://1fichier.com/?52xlot8c5ms9e1rb5n9e Folder link for updates : https://1fichier.com/dir/mX1kipIz Download from Mega : https://mega.nz/file/YA8lHQzJ#VOazKVrHL6oZ9qW0ezyEM3U3hs38_-w5OfOkLCMvX-0 Folder link for updates : https://mega.nz/folder/xUl13A4B#d_RMbhNrNA81QhgwoaUv4g Finaly, because i don't have the permissions to edit this topic later, I have included folder lins for Mega and fichier where you can find updates. Just bookmark them or this topic (I will do a post in case of an update, what ever suits you better. If you have a question or you need help, feel free to ask and i will respond asap. And if you find a bug (which i don't hope) or you have a suggestion, which could make this disc better, let me know, I'm always interested in making things better. PS. Using this DVD as a Frisbee is prohibited! Use other installer for that.
    22 points
  3. Well the “Xbox artwork installer” is out, although it’s only on my downloader that comes with XBMC-Emustation and XBMC4Gamers. Currently prebuilt is 1072 Games with full artwork and synopsis information. There is more artwork done but that’s for specials and homebrew/emulators eg... these aren’t part of the installer. But you can download and manually install them from the github link below. Also a big thanks to everyone who scanned the disc and sleeves of all the Xbox games over at Emuxtras. If you want to make your own artwork or manually install the artwork you can get everything you need here. Link: XBMC4Gamers Artwork Github Full artwork source, 23.1GB worth so it’s big :eek: (removed, as to many downloads effect downloader and all files on this account) Link: Full Artwork Source Google Drive (23.1GB) Here is a preview of said artwork prebuilt ready for the Xbox. Link: 007 - From Russia With Love
    22 points
  4. Intro Since the beginning of time (2004) it was known that the 1.6 was missing the unpopulated footprints for the extra 4 RAM chips and this made the upgrade impossible. I was thinking recently that if all the signals for the extra RAM chips are still available on the board, we can add RAM to the 1.6 by just connecting all the necessary signals. After the tutorial segment I'll go into why this mod works. I'll also post a video on YouTube at some point. Be warned: this is more difficult that a 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade Tutorial Required items Everything mentioned in the 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade tutorial: https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:RAM_Upgrade 4x 90mm long mod-wire. I used enamelled wire from a transformer. ~8 hours spare time Step 1: flash the modified XBlast OS BIOS XBlast OS (as a BIOS) is super helpful in doing this install correctly. It will boot with any number of extra RAM chips and includes a test for the additional RAM. XBlast OS will not show the 128MB test option on a v1.6 Xbox, so I've gone ahead and rebuilt it from source with that check removed. xblast_os_v0.60.bin Alternative Download Link: https://mega.nz/file/eeAwTZKQ#aaFcbACj3htA6cEtKwoiy1L7uK93o4YwUSqkGBEsUz8 If you don't trust my build, this is the line of code that needs removing: At this point, I suggest booting it up and running the test. The test is under Settings > Tools > 128MB RAM test Step 2: Remove the motherboard from the Xbox Step 3: Place the new RAM chip on top of an existing chip You'll want to solder down the corner pins first to get a good mechanical bond and so that you can adjust the alignment. I do this by pushing down pins 30 and 31 and soldering them down to the chip below. Then I check the alignment of the rest of the pins. If it's bad, then the chip can be nudged into position while reflowing the two pins. Then solder the two pins opposite. Step 4: Push down the rest of the pins Except pin 28! That is the chip select pin and it is unique for each RAM chip. Leave this pin floating in the air and don't solder it yet. Pin 30 is marked on the PCB. The pins come in a kind of ‾‾\__ shape. When you push them down, the whole pin will rotate around this end -> ‾‾\__ . I like to also push down the tail ‾‾\__ <- of the pin to get more contact with the chip below. Step 5: Start soldering all the pins Very little extra solder is required. Use lots of flux. I like the tacky flux that usually comes in syringes. I also like the drag-soldering method. If there's any excess solder, you will get shorts between pins and this extra solder can be wicked away. The new pins won't naturally touch the pins below even after pushing them down. Step 6: Check for shorts and missing connections For the first pass, I like to go in with a microscope and nudge each pin (of the new chip) with a cold soldering iron tip. If the pin moves easily, it is not soldered. Also check for shorts at the same time. If you have the patience (and want it to work first try without frying your Xbox), check for shorts and continuity with a multimeter. I skipped this the first time and got bitten! Best to clean the pins and pads with IPA before checking with the multimeter. Step 7: Add the chip-select wire First, figure out which bank you are adding: Then, find the chip-select solder point: Bank 1 CS is left of the label for C4P10 Bank 2 CS is between the labels for C4R12 and C4R13 Bank 3 CS is left and above the label for C4P21 Bank 4 CS is between and above the labels C4R1 and C3R1 For banks 2 and 3, the chip-select wire can go through the hole to the left of the GPU. For bank 2, 90mm may be too short, so check the wire length and cut it as short as possible. I removed the GPU heatsink to access this hole. At this point, it should look something like this: Step 8: Reassemble and test in XBlast For a quick test, I don't bother with adding the fan, GPU heatsink, HDD, or DVD drive. The test in XBlast should look like what I first posted on reddit: If the Xbox reboots twice and FRAGs, check the bios selection (if you have one available). A normal BIOS will not accept between 1 and 3 extra RAM chips. If the Xbox reboots three of four times (and it's faster than a normal FRAG sequence) check for shorts. This happened to me. Step 9: Repeat for the other 3 chips The first one is the hardest. Step 10: Reflash with your favourite BIOS Some 1.6 BIOSs won't support 128MB. The X3 BIOS works just fine and it's the only one I tested so far. xblast_os_v0.60.bin
    19 points
  5. Here is a step by step tutorial for making a high quality component cable using an Xbox 360 component cable and a standard original Xbox Composite AV cable that pretty much everyone will have. I was looking for an original Xbox component cable recently and my options were a cheap Chinese non brand component cable, a monster cable or an official HD kit. The latter being crazy expensive nowadays. Since I have a background in electronics I thought why not make one from a 360 cable if a standard AV cable has all the pins present but not wired. I did a quick Google and I am not the first to have done this but thought I'd throw up this step by step for anyone who isn't afraid of some small soldering. You could just splice a 360 component cable onto a Chinese component cable but this way you have a pretty much official cable that is very high quality.. Here goes. Get yourself a 360 component cable and a standard AV cable with the 3 RCA plugs, red, white and yellow. . Cut the head off your original Xbox AV cable. Take a hair dryer to it now to make the plastic sleeve malleable and remove the sleeve from around the socket. Use a screwdriver to help pry it off if needs be. It should come pretty easy but don't be too rough as we want to get it back on at the end. Now loosen off the clasps around the cable by prying them out with a screwdriver and then with a long nose pliers if needed. Again don't go too mad as we will need to squeeze these back on at the end. Now you should be able to remove half this casing. The socket itself with the pins will still be secured inside. Update: before opening the metal casing as per the following instructions and image you can actually remove the pin connector without opening it, you can push the pin connector out. This is the preferred method but I am leaving the previous instructions here. Now take a long nose pliers and carefully separate the remaining casing. Do this carefully and slowly just enough so you can remove the pin housing. The less you bend this the nicer it will look at the end. Take note of the way the two sides lock into each other. The little tabs click in from the top. So grab the side with the tab and pull up. So pull up the right hand side then turn it around and again pull up the right hand side. Patience, remember this has to go back together. Try to open this up less than I have here if you can. Don't worry about the black shield cables soldered on to the casing. We will be removing these anyway. Once you get the pins out if you're lucky you'll just have a piece of black tape over the pins. If you're unlucky you'll have a blob of hot glue over them both sides. Don't despair....you can get this off with some small effort. If you are met with the glue you can again soften it with a hair dryer and get a screwdriver and gouge the majority of it off carefully. I would then get some sticky stuff remover and spray it on and leave it for 5 minutes. Then carefully scrape lengthways down along each pin with the corner of your small flathead screwdriver until it is all gone. Take your time and make sure it's all off. This is the stuff I use for that. Here is the pins that the lucky people will get with the tape. Lovely clean pins straight from the factory. Now take your 360 component cable and cut the head off this just below it's socket and get the sleeve off your original Xbox socket and put it onto your 360 cable. Just keep turning it until it goes on. It's pretty much the exact fit. And a second time...PUT THE SLEEVE ON YOUR 360 CABLE BEFORE YOU START TO SOLDER!!! You do not want that sinking feeling when you've just done lots of tedious work to find you've to de-solder everything because you forgot to put the sleeve on. Now take a sharp knife and about 2 inches back from the end score a ring around the insulation. Take your time and bend it a bit and let the sharp knife do the work. Don't go mad here. You want all of the shields inside to be intact. Again. Patience. You'll be met with a load of cables with a braided shield around them. The cable with the colour is the signal every time and the shield wrapped around it is that signals ground. It is possible you could find two cables, a signal and ground both insulated and not braided shields. Either way it's the same thing and actually easier if you don't have the braided ones because the braids are trickier to solder because they are bigger. You will also have some white fibres up the middle. Cut these off. And an overall screen, the one that's on it's own. Don't cut this off. For each cable push the braid down a bit to loosen it and make a hole as near the base as you can by separating the braid and pull the coloured cable through. Then pull the braid and twist it nice and tight without breaking it. The idea is to get it as thin as you can. When you've separated each signal from it's screen measure it against the length of cable already soldered onto the original Xbox pins and give yourself a bit extra and cut them all. Strip the ends of each signal. Only about 3 or 4mm and be careful not to pull out strands while stripping the insulation. Make sure there are on stray strands by giving the ends a little twist and tin the ends and also tin about a half inch or so of each braided screen. Try keep them tight with no loose strands. To tin put a small bit of solder on your iron and use this to heat up the wire and flow the solder with the transferred heat of the wire, not the iron. This makes the strands basically into a solid cable. Now desolder all on the cables from your original Xbox pins. Also I highly recommend you use Weller solder or similar decent quality solder as it will make life easier than using cheap stuff. Now to the good stuff. I have taken this diagram from an online search and did not create it myself. It is the best diagram out there and credit to the Creator. I will find the name of the guy on YouTube that has done this and credit him. So you have already tinned your cable ends and braided screens. Now you want to go and tin each pin you will be using. Just a tiny bit of solder and heat the pin for a second. Do not stay on the pins with your iron for anything over 2 seconds or you'll melt plastic. Take your time. Everything one by one. When you've tinned all the pins all you need to do for every solder joint is put a tiny bit on your iron and press down gently and the tinned cable will marry into the tinned pin. Do not use extra solder, no need. The tiny bit I suggest for your iron is simply to transfer the heat. Go ahead and tin pins 1, 2, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 21 and 22. That is for audio right and left signals and grounds, two jumpers for the mode and red, green and blue signal and grounds. To note the connector I've used here is one that was covered in hot glue so it looks a bit bashed up but is electrically sound. Audio right - red to pin 1 and it's ground to pin 2. Also make 2 small jumper wires and tin them as previously. Solder these as shown to pins 6 and 7. Bend the jumper wires around to the other side and solder pin 6 jumper to pin 18 and pin 7 jumper to pin 19. Ignore that strand to the right, that is the overall screen and it's not soldered to a pin, just a bad picture. Blue signal to 9 and it's ground to 10. Green signal to 11 and it's ground to 12. Audio left - white signal to 14 and it's ground to 15. Be careful that you don't mix up the pink with the white, they look very very similar. Last but not least the pink signal wire to 22 and it's ground to 21. Careful with this one. All the rest were 'signal, ground' and this one is 'ground, signal'. Tape up the yellow cable. Nice to have a spare socket at the end of your cable so you can fix this in years to come if one of the rca plugs every gets broken you can solder the yellow up instead. Take the yellows ground and twist the thin overall ground wire around it. Bend it as shown and then tin them together with some solder. We will use this to ground the metal housing on the plug. Scratch up this part on the plug housing with a screwdriver. Now turn your iron up a touch if needed and flow solder onto the part you just scratched up. Solder the screen from the yellow that we tinned together with the overall screen to this part of the case. Cut a strip of electrical tape. The width of standard electrical tape is perfect to cover the pins. I recommend you do this instead of hot glue to insulate the pins. At this point plug it in to your OGXbox and see does it all look good. (Troubleshooting tips at the bottom of this post if it doesn't look quite right) Put this guy back into the other part on the plugs housing and carefully crimp back on the cable grips after around the outer insulation. If you were careful taking apart your plug top earlier you will be happy right about now. If you weren't don't worry, just get a long nose pliers and carefully form it all back together. Remember these tabs click in from the top. They won't sit right if you try click them in from the under side so you'll have to do a touch of light convincing with a long nose pliers again. Be careful of the pins inside now. Don't want to break it now after all of that. Don't lose the cool once they are almost snug you can put a bit of pressure on the tabs with a screwdriver to secure the housing. Once it is fairly solid slide your sleeve back down to cover it up. Now what you have is a top quality fully Microsoft component cable for your OGXbox. In my opinion it's better quality by a mile than the old HD kit and and the monster cable. It's also two fingers up to the cretins that want 70 quid for a cable. You'll get a brand new 360 component cable for around the price of one of those horrendous terribly shielded Chinese component cables and everyone has an AV composite 3 plug standard cable lying around. Also the 360 cable is about 2 metres long. Hope this is of some use to someone. I originally threw a few of them pictures up on the Facebook group but thought I'd post it up here as a reference for anyone who is interested. TROUBLESHOOTING: When you have finished soldering all of the pins do a continuity test with your multi-meter between each pin that are next to each other, You may have one strand from the shield bridging the pin next to it. If this is the case you can try run a sharp knife between the pins to separate any stray strands. A quick multi-meter test is to test between each tip of each RCA plug to the pin you soldered for that signal on the plug. Also check the tip of each against ground (outer ring or barrel the of RCA) make sure there is nothing bridged out. Note that all ground will be connected together. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and it doesn't look right, go back and check each cable you soldered against the diagram again and if needs be reflow any dodgy joints. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and you are missing a colour again go back and check your wiring/soldering. The colours are RGB (Red = Pink cable, Green = Green cable, Blue = Blue cable) For example if you see only Greens and Blues when you load up a game the issue is with your Red colour (Pink cable) and you may have mixed up the ground and signal. The same is true for any colour you seem to be missing. Also do a test of the Audio Right and Left by plugging one out at a time and see do you still have sound. Any issues, the fix will be as above, re-check your wiring against the diagram and re-flow if necessary. Try the cable with a game you know well so you know how it should look colour wise. If it all looks and sounds good close it all back up and enjoy!! Note also that there is a perfectly good optical audio pcb inside the Xbox 360 head, maybe someone could have a go getting that usable. You can also connect the yellow to pin 24 and it's ground to 23 instead of connecting ground to the overall screen and leaving yellow spare. I rather keep it as a spare, means your cable will last long into the future and I don't ever plan on using it as a regular yellow, red and white composite.
    16 points
  6. Updated some things since this video a day or 2 ago from this post going live. Life’s been hard the last year, but am still here plodding away. Hope everyone enjoys the new features
    15 points
  7. Hi all, Long time modder and lurker, first time poster but I wanted to share a project I have been working on the last couple months. It is a small PCB which allows you to use Wireless Xbox 360 controllers (via the Xbox 360 USB Wireless Receiver) on an OG Xbox console. The design is loosely based on another similar project I did for the Nintendo 64 console https://imgur.com/gallery/HVLea3d Following the release of this board another forum user sent me an email asking if this device could be adapted for the OG Xbox, and funnily enough that was the next thing I was going to attempt! I wanted to support the following features atleast: Up to four players with rumble support. 100% USB Bus Powered so no external power supply needed. Fast bootup time, so it's up and running in time for the OG Xbox. Low input lag. As always, this is a hard thing to measure, however I can say that an OG Xbox controller is polled by the console every 4ms or so. My software gathers all the Xbox 360 wireless controller data, collates it and generates all the HID reports every 4 ms aswell. It's possible an input may miss this 4ms window, so would happen in the next 4ms window. As you probably know, an OG Xbox controller is basically a USB HID device, however it has some custom requests and other slight differences, meaning that it doesn't work on a Windows machine without a custom driver, and conversely a generic HID controller will not work in an OG Xbox so there was some work in getting a reliable and compatible solution working. To support four controllers, it is necessary to have 4x Full USB device controllers. However I imagine most people would rarely play with 4 people at once so my design is modular meaning you can support anywhere from one up to 4 players as required to keep cost down. This is a link to the github repo with what I came up with https://github.com/Ryzee119/ogx360 A link to my etsy store where you can buy one pre-assembled https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/672315615/ogx360-add-wireless-xbox-360-controller Cheers!
    15 points
  8. Hi all, Over the past few months I have painstakely reverse engineered the Team Xodus Xenium modchip's CPLD and written a complete open source replacement. I call it OpenXenium. https://github.com/Ryzee119/OpenXenium It has full support for XeniumOS and its features. Repo will list them. The Xenium CPLD is normally read protected to prevent clones. This project did not attempt to break that protection, instead I determined the behavioral properties of the CPLD to write my own VHDL source code. Check the repo out! there is a few xenium related tools that may even help people with a genuine Xenium! Hopefully this will help with LPC related CPLD projects people may have in mind too. Enjoy! Ryan
    15 points
  9. I've been designing and selling xbox mods for the better part of 3 years now. I was keeping things rather low key so I could avoid registering as a business. But it's time to decide either to fade away or go all in coming financial year... You can check out my previous works over at EmuXtras: https://www.emuxtras.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=187&t=6786&sid=092ae8a1ea7b8d5f5ae4b33f3ea1de69 I've been busting my **s over the last 3 months working on projects. Feeling really burnt out I could use some motivation from the community. Below are my 3 main projects for Version 3.0... **Will post images shortly (1) Dual 80mm Fan Caddy Convertion (Beta) - including redesign of the HDD Caddy, etc. - would like to do a PWM fan controller based on CPU and MB temps via I2C. (2) XeniumICE Redesign (Beta) -inspired by the XeniumGOLD 24k modchip. -extra connectors for more specific tasks. -edge connector pads for fast programming. (3) XeniumHD+ Standalone HDMI Mod (WIP) - can't say too much just yet as it's still a work in progress but hope to have a working prototype within the next month or two. I'm sure there will be many questions for a variety of reasons... PS. I'm looking for testers within Australia preferably people who contribute alot to the xbox community. Cheers, NeMesiS
    14 points
  10. I've been asked about hot to internally install my HDMI mod into an Xbox. Well i finally found the time and did such an install properly! As i don't like soldering wires all over the place i went a different route and made it a permanent install replacing the original Video Connector. Cause who would use an old composite cable if you have an hdmi out right? Audio is provided through the HDMI signal of course and it supports 5.1. And with the 3D printed plate to cover the rest off the opening it looks perfect in my eyes. And the best part it does almost not need any modification to the Case! Well except trimming a tiny bit off the DVD caddy so it doesn't touch the PCB. The PCB itself does fit into any revision console and is relatively easy to install. Any thoughts about the install?
    14 points
  11. Heres the link guys, dont know how long it will last in onedrive if you all start grabbing it lol. I suggest grab and reupload elsewhere for others. EJW Standalone 212 pack
    13 points
  12. Oh yeah the default is blue not green. How about True MsDash 2 Green by Peter PL vs Athloni Green MSDash Both of these are in my Top 10 UnleashX Skins pack available here in the ogXbox downloads section
    13 points
  13. As the title suggests, this is a collection of mods for the Xbox version of GTA: Vice City. The aim of this mod was to fix a couple of bugs, to make what I feel are improvements to the game's overall presentation, and to provide a fresh, new visual experience for the same Vice City you know and love, while still maintaining what made the atmopshere and feel of the 1980s American beach city setting so enjoyable. Retaining immersion was also important. If it couldn't have existed in 1986, you won't find it here. Performance was also a key focus. While the Xbox version of Vice City is capable of displaying larger textures just fine, the texture work here was (mostly with very few exceptions) kept at the same resolution with the same compression method as the original textures, because you will run into performance issues, namely regarding pop-in, textures failing to load properly, and frame rate hiccups if you do decide to go with larger textures. In my testing, this wasn't something immediately noticeable in the early stages of the game. It only really becomes an issue when you're driving back and forth between the two islands, particularly late game when you own a lot of properties. This modification performs just as well as the original release from beginning to end. It is recommended that you play this mod in WIDESCREEN with TRAILS OFF. New Roads: Original textures replaced with textures made from real images of Miami roads. This solves the issue of the blurry roads in the original release and generally looks better all around. Sidewalks replaced as well. New particle effects: Particle effects replaced with more realistic representations. GTA III's Liberty City holdover leaves that once scattered the ground have been replaced with palm leaves, much like they appear in the PS2 version. This one small change in particular has a surprisingly large effect on the atmosphere of the world. New Duds: New Miami Vice inspired suits for Tommy and Lance. Most outfits have been changed. From pallette swaps to complete replacements, the new outfits fit the game's world while simultaneously referencing various films, TV shows, and video games along the way. Each outfit functions in cutscenes as well. New timecycle: More colorful days and darker nights. Nights actually feel like night time now. Make the neon of Vice City shine brighter than ever against these blackened night skies, and enjoy beautiful sunsets and sunrises. Fits the beach weather perfectly and looks great with the Xbox version's unique lighting system. New foliage: Fuller and more colorful foliage textures make Vice City come alive. The Xbox version has always had inferior foliage to the PS2 version, this fixes that issue. Bug fixes: PS2 animations, including idle animations missing from the Xbox release, have been restored. Tommy now gives an "up yours" gesture with his arms instead of flipping a nonexistent finger (another GTA III holdover) when standing in front of traffic. A bug preventing the acquisition of the Havana outfit after completing certain missions has been fixed, it is always accessible after having been unlocked now. The brass knuckles have been resized to not look so outlandishly large. Aiming sites for weapons like assault and sniper rifles have been adjusted to display correctly in widescreen mode. This means they display incorrectly in 4:3 mode, however. New animations: A few improved animation replacements for Tommy. He runs with single handed and two handed weapons in a more believable way now. Walking, idles, sprinting, and just about everything else has been kept vanilla for the sake of familiar game feel. Tommy still sprints as fast as he always has - something that's typically changed for the worse with animation mods. Female character models no longer dislocate their hips as they walk. Peds overall have new animation. They all walk a little slower now than before, but their animations look less rubbery. New pedestrians: About 85% of peds replaced with their VCS counterparts. These pedestrians are higher quality than the ones found in the original release of Vice City. Better quality texture work, more colorful outfits, and more diverse models. New surprises: I've thrown in a number of retextured areas and objects throughout the game. From small world objects to interiors, there's a number of new things to see for returning veterans. New weapon: The Ruger has been replaced with an AK-47. New HUD: The radar ring has been replaced with a new, original ring. Icons on the main HUD, map icons, and weapon icons have been replaced with their 10th Anniversary counterparts. The pause screen map has been replaced with the 10th Anniversary map. New text: A few lines in the game's american.gxt file have been modified to reflect some of the changes this modification brings. Mostly in terms of outfit and weapon names. Download INSTALLATION: 1. Extract folders to any directory of your choosing 2. FTP all folders from the archive into your GTA: Vice City root folder on your Xbox, choose to overwrite files in the process. 3. IMPORTANT: Delete GTA_VC.CAP.Final file from your GTA: Vice City root folder if it exists 4. Clear your Xbox's cache and start the game 5. Have fun There shouldn't be any issues with running this mod on existing save files. Feel free to report any bugs you see. What I'd like to change in the future: Improve widescreen mode from the existing pan 'n scan implementation Fix the alpha render state for the target lock and sniper dot
    12 points
  14. I don't like that the Startech SATA-IDE adapter doesn't have a case, so I designed one for it, and thought I'd share it. It's printed in two halves and snaps together (if all goes well). sata-adapter-case.stl
    11 points
  15. They're completely ignoring my responses and questions which make it absolutely impossible to have a meaningful conversation with them. I suggest we do the same, ignore them and give them nothing. They're only purpose here is to insight hate and conflict within the community... It's a shame to see a small handful of people ruining it for everyone else, I'm sure there are good people within the MakeMHz community and I hold no offence to them. But I have never seen such behavior in the 20 years I've been working with OGXbox's... I will not give into intimidation and harassment; it only adds fuel to the fire and drives me further. I will continue working on projects as I did but I will not post anymore updates on the HDMI mod until development has been completed and ready for release... This will be the last time I will address any hostile MakeMHz members on this thread! I can only suggest that others should do the same, ignore them and give them nothing. I have nothing more to say on the matter... NeMesiS
    11 points
  16. TruHeXEn 2021 To all those wanting a proper update to my release of TruHeXEn 2020, you've finally got one Massive thanks to user "sweetdarkdestiny" here on ogxbox forums for the very strong push to getting a proper release out. Without their effort at attempting to clean HeXEn's old code, this update would have taken much longer. This update mainly consists of general housekeeping changes to how HeXEn traditionally got tasks accomplished. Just about every aspect of the scripts has had some level of optimizations done to them to make this the fastest booting/cleanest HeXEn disc to date. All of the original features of TruHeXEn 2020 have been maintained as well as having a few outdated systems replaced. Winbond/Sharp tsop flashing is now handled by Xblast OS instead of Resctoox for example. *noDvd m8 Bios added back to the flashing menu *IND-5003 replaced with the Xiso patched version *Updated Eeprom Nulling tool added. One specific to each system (Tsop/Modchip and Softmod Systems) The biggest change any long time user of HeXEn will notice right off the bat is the massively improved boot times. This was accomplished by splitting up HeXEn into two parts. Upon booting HeXEn will by default load into the menu specifically for Tsop/Modchip systems. There is a new option first in the list to reboot into the Softmod specific menu. Aside from that most all of the features you expect are still present. Love it or Hate it, TruHeXEn is here to stay Google Drive Link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/165tikChvIc8q7HqfLxxACBOMGvNqQL3e/view?usp=sharing
    11 points
  17. I try to stay in the background because the site is really about you all and I would never want to have much if any focus on me. With that said... I have always loved Xbox modding. I was really into it back in 2002-2004. I learned all I could and modded lots of Xboxs back then. I changed careers in 2014 and that took me to a new state and somehow all of that change rekindled my love for Xbox. I looked around for people who were still into it and they were scattered everywhere. Xbox-scene was dying/dead. I created the FB group and it took off relatively quickly. I did a lot of things wrong there by choosing the wrong admins and commenting on topics unrelated to Xbox.... moderating in a way that was frankly unprofessional. (I still do from time to time if I'm in a weird mood.) Once the FB group membership got around 10k, we started having content just disappear from the FB group. I became aware that the group could quite literally vanish in the blink of an eye. My skillset is in the world of IT, so spinning up a web server was really no trouble. So I fired up a VM on my server at home, set it up and allowed it through my firewall and announced the site. Once the site grew, I went ahead and moved it to a VPS cloud host so it doesn't depend on my home's power and internet reliability. Hopefully I covered whatever you were looking for. If not let me know and I'll answer almost anything.
    11 points
  18. Team Cerbios and Team Resurgent are excited to introduce the Official Trailer for PrometheOS, a new open-source operating system designed for all Xenium-based mod chips in the original Xbox. **Key current Features of PrometheOS:** - **Multi-Bank Functions:** Effortlessly switch between different bios images. - **LED Support:** Assign custom colors to each bios bank for enhanced visual feedback. - **Web UI:** Access a user-friendly interface from any web-enabled device for simplified bios management. - **FTP Support:** Facilitate easy file transfers between the Xbox and other devices. - **Skin Support:** Customize the OS interface to reflect your personal style. - **HDD Lock/Unlock Support:** Gain the ability to lock or unlock the hard drive, tethering it to a specific console. - **EEPROM Backup/Restore Feature:** Ability to backup and restore your EEPROM. **A Community-Driven Initiative:** PrometheOS is a collaborative achievement between Team Resurgent, Team Cerbios, and the dedicated Xbox modding community. **Availability:** PrometheOS will be available for download, ensuring compatibility with all versions of the original Xbox equipped with a Xenium-based mod chip. **For Those Interested in Getting Started:** If you're eager to try out PrometheOS and are in need of an affordable chip or external programmer, you can purchase a Xenium-ICE v3.0 & Programmer directly from NeMesiS/XeniumMods. Visit their eBay store at https://www.ebay.com.au/str/xeniummods for more information. **Special Thanks:** Our gratitude goes to NeMesiS / XeniumMods for providing prototype Xeniums, programming hardware, and essential feedback and testing which helped greatly in making PrometheOS a reality. A shoutout to Ryzee119 for the invaluable Xenium-Tools, facilitating the flashing of the new OS via your xbox. (https://github.com/Ryzee119/Xenium-Tools) and the work towards making the original OpenXenium. Stay tuned for ETA & more updates on this exciting development by the Xbox scene community! Please watch the official trailer and show some to all those who contributed and worked towards making this a reality. Source: https://www.xbox-scene.info/articles.html/announcing-prometheos-a-replacement-open-source-os-for-xenium-based-mods-r26/
    10 points
  19. >>> OGXBox 2021 XBlastOS 8MB MC TSOP Flasher <<< I finaly managed to get the (for me) perfect TSOP flasher done. It makes use of the known save game exploids for SC, MA, 007 & TH4 and uses XBlastOS to flash any TSOP right away. As base it will load up UnleashX where you can choose the bios you like to flash (See list below). After you have selected the bios UnleashX will unrar all necessary files and copy them to the needed places and after that XBlastOS will start. Also a pretty bare bone UnleashX will be installed in which you boot after the TSOP flash from which you can launch an installer like the OGXBox Installer 2021 to set up your HDD. So no more softmodding before TSOP'ing or using EvoX, Raincoat or Resctoox to flash a TSOP. All bios files and configs are pre-configured to boot up the evoxdash.xbe of the C drive. Here is a list of provided bioses: XBox v1.0 - 1.1 ONLY! - x2 5035.67 (512kb) XBox v1.0 - 1.3 ONLY ATM! - Cerbios v1.02 ALPHA (256kb) (Will be updated when newer version come out) XBox v1.0 - 1.4 - EvoX m8 plus noDVD (256kb)* - EvoX m8 plus yesDVD (256kb)* - iND 5003.67 (256kb) - iND 5003.67 XISO (256kb) - iND 5004.67 (256kb) - x2 4983.67 (256kb) And since this version is only 6.2MB in size (Incl. all save games!), you could add your own bios files beside the others. Screenshot : https://imgur.com/a/nBwAIIY Pre release version video (The final is slightly different but you get the idea) : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zam2SXG1WI8 All credits go to these guys and teams: pysko_chewbacca, Rocky5, Team Cerbios, Team iND, Team Xecuter, Team EvoX and Team Unleash. Download sites (Pal and NTSC version): https://1fichier.com/dir/dyFJYcXu https://mega.nz/folder/cJ8XRAYZ#cCK8TgW1RsPWPkGvGSiUmA Have fun.
    10 points
  20. I've been sitting on this for a few weeks now, But I think it's perfect timing to announce the Stellar Elimination Module. Above is a minimalistic 3.3v version that I retro fitted to my XeniumICE modchip, there's also a 5v version. These will be OpenSource along with the ST-Link adaptor, including Gerbers, BOM and Schematics within the next week or so. I would say that the MakeMHz XboxHD+ Legacy addon has already become obsolete within 24 hours of its release.
    10 points
  21. Hey Nem, Just came across this thread and I was tagged Good luck with your Xbox HDMI project. I had alot of fun working on my version. Your goals are good and I hope it works out. I know the MakeMhz project initially planned to not even need bios patches but we both hit the same hurdles, which is why he had to release the bios patches for compatibility (and why mine 'failed'). The source for the Xbox HDMI support is actually opensource. https://github.com/MakeMHz/xbox-hdmi-kernel-source So I guess anyone can actually add support if they wanted. The newer version has removed the stm processor but should still be easy to add support. It's just hard for anyone to really contribute to current bioses due no sources, or working on the leaked source code. Yes MS don't care but for a registered business you really can't touch that stuff. I hold no grudges in people keeping their projects closed source. As you say you put many hours and money into them so this is fully supported by me. MakeMHz has done the same thing and been flamed for it for some reason so beware You are more than welcome to use my hardware design and treat it as public domain. It's mainly from datasheets and app notes anyway. The software is GPL so if you use it and modify it etc its easy to keep it opensource. I'm not sure how you will overcome the mess that is the xbox outputs from the GPU though. Some TVs are very picky and if the encoder (adv7511 on my board) doesn't automatically detect the type of video signal you're out of luck. 480i never worked for me, 1080i was generally ok. You WILL need a FPGA or something to convert the video signals to something consistent or bios patches of some description like what MakeMHZ did for anything reliable enough to sell in my opinion. All the best with the project. If you have any easy questions I'm happy to help but it's been a fair while since was down in the detail on this so may have forgotten
    10 points
  22. I think its a good idea to have a thread with all of the 3d printable parts listed here so that others can find them easily. I'll start by adding my own creations, here is a replacement CPU/GPU bracket. Made in Fusion 360: Original Xbox CPU/GPU bracket by ShinGoutetsu | Download free STL model | Printables.com Feel free to add links to your own!
    9 points
  23. I wasted a good portion of the last 3 or 4 years, lots of time and money on this idea. I've created then thrown away at least 6 full prototype xbox case prints that I was not happy with, redesigned several times etc. Here is a link to all versions from start to finish. It's not perfected still, but I am happy enough with mine that I'm not willing to pursue this anymore. I've shared them on cults3d and thingiverse but it's hard to put all the data there. To be clear, anyone can do anything they want with any files I've shared.. print and sell, edit, etc etc. Includes x3cp stl, xtender stl, stock face stl, power button stl, and prototype stl or obj files. I even tried to make a theme based on prototype. It should all be found here. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jPioe3_N8f_HiEhmXxccLfFvJ9h86N6K
    9 points
  24. Here you get a shit load of pre patched EvoX files. 144 EvoX bios'es in total. These files are for 128MB XBox'es version 1.0-1.4 and 1.6/1.6b. You get these in many different versions in many flavors like: EvoX 128MB (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX 128MB 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX 128MB HDplus (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX 128MB HDplus 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX 128MB XBoxHDMI (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX 128MB XBoxHDMI 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB UDMA2 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB UDMA2 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB UDMA4 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB UDMA4 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB UDMA5 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB UDMA5 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB HDPlus UDMA2 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB HDPlus UDMA2 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB HDPlus UDMA4 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB HDPlus UDMA4 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB HDPlus UDMA5 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB HDPlus UDMA5 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB XBoxHDMI UDMA2 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB XBoxHDMI UDMA2 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB XBoxHDMI UDMA4 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB XBoxHDMI UDMA4 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB XBoxHDMI UDMA5 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) EvoX Titan 128MB XBoxHDMI UDMA5 1.6 (256kb/512kb/1024kb) (noDVD/yesDVD) ******************************************************************************* Some infos about the patches I used: Titan Patch Version: 1.1.0 MakeMHz XBoxHDMI Patch Version: 1.4.3 MakeMHz HDplus Patch Version: 1.0.2 MakeMHz EvoX 128MB Ram Patch Version: 1.0.0* *Could also be v1.0.1 how ever, it's the latest m8plus_true_128MB_fixed.ips. ******************************************************************************* All these bios'es are sorted* and ready to use with XBlastOS or any other flasher which requires that the bios is named bios.bin which has to be in C:\bios (C:\bios\bios.bin). Note: YD = yesDVD and ND = noDVD*. (*Yes you can still boot/cold boot any DVD you like with it!) All these files are also packed as bios.rar files using winrar 3.0. So you could unpack these with UnleashX etc.. (Only of interest if you go to use these of an installer). That lead me to one thing. If you are one of the last ones who creates installer, feel free to use these files on your disc. ******************************************************************************* Credits and a HUGE thanks for the patches fly out to: MakeMHz and Gaasedelen. And also a HUGE thanks to Donnie-Burger for testing. ******************************************************************************* And don't forget to suppport the Devs! Buy'em some coffee because nothing works without coffee! Visit : https://github.com/gaasedelen/titan https://github.com/MakeMHz ******************************************************************************* Download Folders: Mega : https://mega.nz/folder/JFlR2Q5C#lxK9TfF_sgGxl2gPI4uqIw 1fichier : https://1fichier.com/dir/cdrhapgD ******************************************************************************* PEACE! EDIT: How to update your ram on a XBox 1.6/1.6b :
    9 points
  25. New splash screen. Several colors. splash.7z
    9 points
  26. We have a prototype design for the XeniumHD+ I wasn't going to include pads on the top side but thought it might be handy to do so. There are 3 connectors on the underside. 3pin to SPD module, 6pin to Xenium modchip and a 5pin for programming. There's 5v coming in from both the SPD and modchip. As a safety precaution I gave both inputs a diode to prevent voltage from passing through the device. I'm still undecided about the 6pin connector going to the modchip but it kinda just works with both designs. Alternatively, I could just go with a 3 or 2pin connector but then we will be doubling up on connectors on the same PCB which I wanted to avoid preventing things getting plugged up incorrectly. And changing connectors at this stage would require a bit of time reworking the designs to suit. Thoughts? Over the next couple hours I'll be touching up the last few things on the designs so that I can order the next batch of prototypes and whatever components I need to hand assemble a couple. If everything goes well, I'll order a small test batch from my PCB assembler which I'll hand out for testing.
    9 points
  27. Oh no, another flasher! YES! I have resently read from the one or the other that it would be nice to have a option to just flash a bios wihtout the need to install any apps, dashboards or what ever. So I decided to make that DVD for the 2-3 ppl. out there. So this DVD provides XBlastOS and EvoX as flashing tool. Like the MC/USB installer I made, all bios files are already packed as bios.bin so you can flash any TSOP (Incl. Winbond) or ModChip with it right away. Other as the MC/USB flasher this DVD version provides more bios files you can flash. And ofc there is also a XBox 1.6/1.6b flasher on board. And no, if you didn't have already a modded XBox you need to use the MC/USB TSOP flasher (Or you soft mod). How ever. On the main screen you simply select what you like to do: Flash XBox 1.0-1.4 Without Dashboard Install. Flash XBox 1.0-1.4 With Dashboard Install. Flash XBox 1.6-1.6b Without Dashboard Install. Flash XBox 1.6-1.6b With Dashboard Install. So you could install one (1) dashboard along if you like (Ava, EvoX, UiX Lite, UX, X4X, X4G or XES). If not just select the "Without" option and the Flash Menu will load up right away without installing anything. Btw. this installer will install nothing if you don't wish (The only thing you could install is a Dash anyway). Not even XBlastOS or EvoX which both run of the DVD. So you will just leave with a Bios folder on C:\ which contains the bios you have flashed. And if need you have some basic tools in the Main Menu under Miscellaneous. You also will find the option to update the MS Dashboard to the lates version (5960.01) if needed in that menu along with some other options. So you see, the main goal here was basicly bios flashing. No Apps, No Dah (If you don't want) and No Crap will left behind. And ofc this installer didn't touch any byte of your maybe already installed Apps/Dashes or what ever like some others do. Finaly this installer provides all the latest bioses like Cerbios, MakeMHz, EvoX TITAN etc.. Finaly one last word. This DVD didn't use a BFM on boot so it's pretty fast. And all bios MD5 check sums I know have been added to the EvoX flasher and to the Bios Checker App (Oh Dave will throw eggs at me for this). HOW EVER..... Hope you guys have a use for it. PEACE! Downloads : 1fichier : https://1fichier.com/dir/wVNkbBai Mega : https://mega.nz/folder/UN1DzDAL#CuuhnuVesotAbaZVmIZzeg
    9 points
  28. Here's my tower of power My pure White #0108/1000 "Dreamcast" Here's my Hulk (came before the Dew's no matter what people say) Most of my controllers Orange Xbox Live Controller https://thepiratepimp.weebly.com https://www.instagram.com/thepiratepimp/ https://www.youtube.com/user/thePiratePimp
    9 points
  29. You missed the point. Your post was made under the premise that we exist to provide you with downloads. We don't. Nobody owes anybody else anything, and we certainly do not owe you or anyone else downloads. We exist to build a community and preserve the knowledge. The files exist NUMEROUS places. The knowledge is actually more scarce than the files since Xbox-Scene went under. So that's our purpose and that's why this rule isn't "f*cking dumb". The fact that this was spelled out in the OP and you STILL didn't get it means you are though.
    9 points
  30. Hey Folks, hey @KaosEngineer and @neighbor! hope you guys are doing well? So today, I ripped the DVD with my XBox. i ripped it with 2 different modes (iso and raw), created a Mega-Account and uploaded all the files, they are ready to go. I also scanned the artwork (front, back and DVD) for you guys (just in case you want to print it out or use it digitally). Here are the links: Raw DVD-Files: https://mega.nz/#F!rZh1SbQL .iso DVD-Files: https://mega.nz/#F!fJoBFRjK Artwork: https://mega.nz/#F!GI4HVLiQ so, start you machines and get downloading! greetings! bot
    9 points
  31. Since the Sickmods site has vanished i thought it might be worth saving the information from there open source projects. Having a backup of the user manual, source code and the shematic can't hurt. So here are the files for anyone who wants to build a couple Xerc2s. And for anyone who wants to build them i uploaded my panelized Layout here: Xerc2 Panelized Have fun building and using the Xerc2 ir mod! Xerc2 Firmware.zip XERC2XE-UsersManual.pdf
    8 points
  32. Cerbios Bios Mirror (Updated) Current: 2.3.2 Since the original thread is no longer being updated, I will attempt to do so in this thread. 2.3.2 Is the ElpisHD version with HD+ support. I have also included Cerbios Tool, as well as UDMA 4,5 and 6 files. Only use 6 if you have a Startech, basically. if you have a cheapo SATA adapter, use UDMA 4. If you have upgraded your cheapo green adapter with "the resistor", try 5. If you are using IDE, use the non-UDMA descripted file, which is UDMA-2. OP will be updated with every release and there will only ever be this thread. .nfo file should contain changelogs. Happy flashing! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mega: https://mega.nz/file/x6VmRbzT#hjH2mFkYUEtqyAUUyJ5dIV-_iCu45Te700TdSoh5cx0 Google Drive Mirror: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/18rD7KbLxou94_J4dP3mujspxTcBcYZ8y?usp=drive_link
    8 points
  33. Hi all, I built an xbox mini a few years ago and designed a case based loosely on ghostavels well known xbox mini. I had it laser cut from plexiglass and it turned out ok, but could be better. I'm looking into possibly designing in CAD and making the cases but want to see if there's enough interest for it to be a worthwhile venture. I've attached some pictures of my original, any feedback or suggestions would be great. Currently it uses the breakaway part of the controller cables for controller ports, I have only used 2 on mine but 2 more can be added obviously. I also added internal wifi hence an extra cutout on the back to loop a small cat5 to an internally mounted wifi pcb, this could be omitted or the wifi pcb could be directly soldered to the ethernet port (I wanted to retain the port). There is also a small window for internal IR dongle, again this can be omitted. The 3 smaller "holes" are for hdd act LED, Power LED and network activity. Again optional. You would need to do the pico psu mod and have some aftermarket cooling for cpu etc (I used Iceberq 4 pro's) Face plates could be any colour, same for the side/back pieces. Also doesn't have to have the xbmc logo engraved Thanks
    8 points
  34. Xbox 1.6 with Hynyx ram chips and Samsung ram chips piggyback: (Pita!)
    8 points
  35. Now that I've had a little bit of time to think... I miss how the way things were before MakeMhz showed up. There were many smaller makers and sellers around. Sure, we were competing with each other in the public eye. But behind the scenes we helped each other out. We even created a Facebook page where we all advertised our products alongside each other without any conflict. The polar opposite of what's been happening today. I would really like to see some of the older sellers return!
    8 points
  36. Since this thread has devolved into shit flinging and “lol I didn’t say that ” posts I’ll make my final stance on the matter. My whole issue is that there is very clear bias, and a do as I say not as I do mentality here. Instead of talking to the right people, it’s always others chiming in and making the arguments against someone or something that may affect MakeMHz. My main issue is that supporters of MakeMHz will come out and speak out on his behalf, but will absolutely refuse to acknowledge the negatives he has contributed to this community. If any of my admins on Xbox-Scene were accused of the shit he was, I’d call them out on it. The same would apply to ConsoleMods, Insignia, XboxDev, TeamUIX, Assembly, Avalaunch. I have friends in all of those places, but never will I ever blindly accept something cool they did over actual claims, with evidence, of their bastardry. Instead, you blindly support his actions and continue to work with him. XS has been reported no less than 5 times, lies have been spread about “alts and trolls”, people have been incorrectly labeled Cerbios developers. Git’s that are completely unrelated to him, his business, or his “open source software” have been reported with false DMCA claims. Domains have been registered out of shear spite, and forwarded to MakeMHz’s website.. (Xodus, even Modville after his spat with Modzville on Twitter) The most disheartening part, is that so many contributors to the Xbox community (software, services, hardware) have found their way to his echo chamber, and will say everyone else is toxic, and will absolutely ignore the fact the person they’re defending has been accused not once, not twice, but three times of sexual misconduct. There’s evidence of at least one public case for criminal activity where he was convicted, and there’s multiple posts on Reddit about his scammy tactics in the development for hire space. There’s multiple posts about him scamming users out of dev kits on Assembler, and the original XS forums. There’s multiple screenshots from users, during COVID when everyone was coming out of the wood work implying he *still* owed them money from things back in the day. The dude doesn’t release actual open source software, he makes promises to do so and then back tracks every time. The things he does release, are done in a way that they are either obfuscated bullshit that appears legitimate on the surface, but when you dig it’s apparent it isn’t what it says it is. The XboxHD standalone chip is no longer actively developed, in favor of the Stellar chip, that has a “trust me bro” reverse engineered software, and a license that says you can’t RE it (lol wtf) so *if* Nemesis did make a clone, by your own logic it doesn’t matter as it’s not an active product any longer. The firmware assembly patches that were released, aren’t even compatible with the latest firmware available. Consistently, scene users have reached out to attempt to make things compatible across the entire community, and consistently have they been shot down. Consistently, have scene users released tools, mods, patches, and consistently have they been told that it’s trash, or dirty. Consistently, have scene users done things to be helpful or try to build up this community, and they’ve been labeled bad people because of one person’s need to be on top. One can only assume that the defense of this person, for doing *the exact same things other people have been called out for* is because there is some kind of kickback. So circling back to my previous comments. If you can not speak on his shittiness, don’t try to be a shining light. You’re backing the wrong horse, and it’s honestly pathetic at this point. But then again, I could be completely full of shit. It’s up to yall to prove me wrong. Be consistent and stop backing a rapist and manipulator, because not acknowledging it will do nothing more than taint what you yourself have built. Just because someone is charismatic, and produced something cool doesn’t make them a good person. None of the shit flinging would actually be happening, if the community was actually a community and people worked together rather than make promises to release things, or try to hinder the work of others for their own personal gain. Unless/Until you can prove this dude built something that was purposely designed to infringe on someone else, keep your comments to yourself because throwing stones from a glass house is not a good look. That being said, for anyone else reading this, before you ask about source, again… be consistent. Take that crusade EVERYWHERE. Don’t just target people you don’t have a personal relationship with.
    8 points
  37. Sounds like to me that MakeMHz is trying to claim ownership over "XeniumOS" with the sole purpose of hindering the community as they have absolutely zero use for it. "xenium-update" by Dustin is OpenSource and covered under GNU licensing. And this what I get in return for OpenSourcing my work on the Xenium-Programmer (aka XeniumPGR) to the community. I haven't supplied anything that wasn't already on GitHub other than my own works. It wouldn't surprise me if MakeMHz starts attacking OGXbox related GitHubs in the near future!
    8 points
  38. Took me 2 days to get all the wiring right. for the wii2hdmi for og xbox modd ... using a wii2hdmi device ordered off eBay you can also find an Alibaba and other places like this. Very inexpensive around 5 Canadian dollars. You're also going to need some sort of a donor Xbox RCA wires or component wires in order to pull this off. There is 11 connections total five of which are ground I do not suggest not adding all the ground cuz could cause interference. Had pretty good luck I made to both of them are crystal clear with no interference. I tested on version 1.0 as well as version 1.4 turned out very good. I tried to look up and down online for some sort of schematic nothing appeared. There was one picture that was in Spanish but it was misleading I tried to look into it to find out who the original inventor was found the person at XB Classics a Brazilian site. After conversating with him he told me that he had better pictures but he would not share. Then I noticed a site that they has linked where they were selling these to the equivalent of 40 US dollars a piece so that is the reason the images that they uploaded are just there to confuse people. So that they cannot make it. Does not include audio left or right. And apparently La stands for 5 V? Don't ask me but that's what the guy told me makes no sense at all. I spent two days getting the wiring correct. I documented everything and put it on a YouTube video (link2come) was trying to figure out the best way to make this readily available for everybody in the world any Xbox Enthusiast should have a low cost HDMI adapter solution available to them this is where these schematics come in. Again I didn't notice any interference at all. Just a little bit in the Bios when only running 480 but there's not much you can do unless you re Flash the BIOS to force. I've noticed people in the group posting pictures not even having soldering skills and getting very good results from this method. In theory you can use this exact same adapter in order to have an internal HDMI solution. These images are water marked because these are going to be the only good images that are online and I seen the way XB classic does their water mark and it really bugs me that they did that so I wanted to make sure that everyone knows where it came from. That being said I'm Mister James Reid really helped me out with this he volunteered his services in order to take my hard copy drawings that were on paper and make it look something presentable. Which he did and he did a great job thank you very much James I did in fact alter the images to have the watermark across them. Sorry about that but I figured since I put in the work I deserve to have my name on it. If you have any questions please do not hesitate I do not check this site every day but I do come in from time to time. Thanks again and I hope people online can use this receive money from the big corporations like pounds and hyperkin charging ridiculous amounts of money for something so cheap... I've also got a lot of questions recently about people asking if this is any better than component. It uses the component wires in order to transfer the signal into HDMI. I'm not too technical with that end but when looking up the chip number on the actual board for the Wii to HDMI adapter I did notice in there schematics and their breakdown for the actual board they did mention that the video board that does the decoding actually does video on hand splint what kind of video enhancement I have no idea. But it should be an enhancement over component if they are speaking the truth. Anyway gentleman without further delay here are the schematics. I hope this hope somebody somewhere. Thank you very much Frank
    8 points
  39. Picked up a brand new X3 today. Honestly didn't expect to find an unused one at this point. Think this one may stay in the box.
    8 points
  40. NFO ( ( ) ( ( )\ ) ( )\ ) ( /( )\ ) )\ ( (()/( ( )\ (()/( )\()) (()/( (((_) )\ /(_)))((_) /(_))((_)\ /(_)) )\___ ((_) (_)) ((_)_ (_)) ((_) (_)) ((/ __|| __|| _ \ | _ )|_ _| / _ \ / __| | (__ | _| | / | _ \ | | | (_) |\__ \ \___||___||_|_\ |___/|___| \___/ |___/ ****************************************************************************** * * * .:Release V2.2.1 Beta Hybrid (Xbox V1.0 - 1.6) Only:. * * * ****************************************************************************** ****************************************************************************** * Version :.........V2.2.1 Beta * Size :......................256 KB * * Date :....................23/01/23 * Type :...............Xbox Bios * * Group :........Team CerBios * Platform :.........Microsoft Xbox * ****************************************************************************** * https://discord.gg/VcdSfajQGK * ****************************************************************************** ****************************************************************************** *....:Changes/Additions:.....................................................* ****************************************************************************** * * * --A new custom Bios for the Original Xbox.-- * * * * * * Release: V2.2.1 Beta * * * * Fixed Issue Where Some Split Isos Would Not Work Properly * * Shout-Out To Those That Reported This Bug To Us. * * * * #PLEASE REPORT YOUR TEST RESULTS OR ANY BUGS REPORTS IN OUR ROOM ON * * DISCORD THANKS * * * * * ****************************************************************************** You can use the folder links in the first post or the ddl links below. Cebios v2.2.1 DL Direct Link @ 1fichier: https://1fichier.com/?hccd9wl282smb5asjaa4 Cebios v2.2.1 DL Direct Link @ Mega: https://mega.nz/file/UBk2XZAA#YPli85oGG3FLOV6Co8BjTtvGwxfQh3VoxwH0pbAYWcQ UNTOUCHED SCENE FILES ONLY!
    8 points
  41. And like always.... Cerbios Xbox Bios V2.2.0 BETA Released (1.0 - 1.6) The pack contains UDMA2/4/5 and each as 256kb/512kb/1024kb already packed in a folder "bios" and renamed to "bios.bin" so it's ready to flash. https://1fichier.com/?5iqzwqg3yxoq4x5w1s9q https://mega.nz/file/8EsUkJQK#0vYAfsSHidOznVSBTTggql_8-mNhwEkR4Rre4wbIvNE Have fun.
    8 points
  42. This HDMI mod replaces the AV port completely and offers an HDMI port instead for convenience. The Installed HDMI mod does look like this: The HDMI mod does offer 5.1 sound through the HDMI port. If you don't need 5.1 (or your TV might not support it) you can simply disable 5.1 audio and get digital stereo audio instead. For those who want to add an optical output to there Xbox the HDMI mod does offer 3 solder points to add a TOTX178 optical transmitter. To get the HDMI mod installed you first need to get the AV-port removed. To get it removed you could either use a hot-air station or a heat-gun to remove it at once. But that would put a lot of thermal stress on the board! The better and recommended alternative is to disassemble the Port and remove it one part at a time. First desolder the Metal Tab holding it in place by heating them and prying the metal tab up to pull it out. When the metal tab is removed take a sidecutter and clip off all the pins from the video port as they are what keeps the Port in place. When they are clipped off you can take the port cover off by simply pulling it upwards. Next step is to remove the remaining plastic piece and desolder the rest of the pins and clean up the area a little. Position the first Adapter exactly as show in the photo. The red arrow marks the PTH that has to be alligned centered. Once Positioned solder all the marked points down and make sure they are properly connected before continuing with the second adapter! After soldering all the necessary points insulate the 2 soler points shown in green. A piece of kapton tape works well. You should do this to be sure there's no unwanted connection occuring between the 2 adapter pcbs. Next up is the second adapter. Just position it above the first adapter using the 2 big holes to allign them and solder down the marked points. Again check continuity before continuing with the next PCB! Last PCB is the HDMI mod itself. You need to position it slightly off centered on the second PCB. The HDMI ports pins will be position it correctly. Just solder down the points that are marked with the red arrows and the install is almos done! Last up is setting the Video mode. You need to add 2 small bridges on the bottom side of the PCB. Just solder in the 2 bridges and the video mode is set correctly! If you want to use the optical out you can easily add a toslink port to the HDMI mod by simply soldering a Transmitter to the 3 marked pins.
    8 points
  43. I have a pack of hdd fix for games here the link: https://mega.nz/#!DBQTWYgS!sVLmD-BgzlYaJMO4-w7dznU7c7ysVEypRx4wtJ33ZuU
    8 points
  44. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QmJnbB-NJFH4f3TgVBmit-GRrSJ3Ah4M
    8 points
  45. Basic Networking Guide: I have seen several posts on here from people who avoid FTP because they can't understand networking. I've seen advice from people who don't understand networking. I've seen people try to connect to their xbox but have no clue how. Let me explain this to you. If you don't understand, keep reading it over and over. Nobody can help you any more than this. 1. IP addressing - Your IP address is a series of numbers that gives your devices their identity on your local network. Think of it as a street address that will only mean anything to other people who live in your neighborhood. Anyone who doesn't live in your neighborhood would have absolutely no idea what it means or how to find that address. For example, here is the most common IP scheme (subnet) in the world: 192.168.1.*. for our purposes, we're going to throw away the high level stuff about subnetting here. You'll only ever be dealing with a consumer grade network... or you'd already know this by now. For any 2 devices to communicate on your local network, they need to belong to the same subnet. This means they both need a 192.168.1.* address. (Please remember that I am trying to simplify this for the lay person.) So your pc should be for example: 192.168.1.15. Your xbox could be: 192.168.1.37. As long as they don't have the same number in the fourth slot(octet) as any other device, as long as it is >=1 and <= 254, it will be able to communicate with any other device on that same subnet. By now, you're confused.... "but he's calling the ip address range the subnet but I have another slot named subnet mask"..... 2. Subnet mask - This is a way to chop up a network and keep certain computers from talking to other ones on that network. It was created in the early days of networking as a form of security. It's necessary to configure it for communications, but not necessary to understand it. What you need to understand is that a subnet: (for example) 192.168.1.1 Through 192.168.1.254 is a range of ip addresses. A subnet mask is what determines which IP addresses are in the subnet, so that they can communicate with each other. For our purposes, we're going to always set our subnet masks on all devices identically. 255.255.255.0. This allows each device to talk to each other device. Think of this as a fence... so only certain members of the neighborhood can interact with each other. 255.255.255.0 takes that fence down (by allowing 254 devices to communicate). (Again, I'm trying to simplify this for the lay person. If you get really into networking and realize there are subnets MUCH larger than what we're dealing with and therefore the subnet mask allows this, you may want to argue. I do this for a living and know that the description isn't dead on technically... I'm just trying to make it easy to understand.) All of our neighbors can communicate with each other. 3. Default Gateway - This is only necessary when you need communication OUTSIDE of your subnet. This is always going to be the ip address of your router. It must exist on the same subnet as the device we're trying to give access to. So for instance, your computer is 192.168.1.15 and you want to give it internet access. Your router's ip has to be 192.168.1.something.... If it's anything else your pc can't talk to it. Routers are usually the first available ip address in a subnet. It doesn't have to be this way, but that's usually the way it's set up. So, your pc so far is: IP: 192.168.1.15 Mask: 255.255.255.0 Gateway: 192.168.1.1 Think of the default gateway as the ONLY entrance and exit to the neighborhood. You can't enter or escape this neighborhood without knowing where that gateway is. 4. DNS - Dns is what translates www.whatever.com into an ip address. Your pc uses ip addresses to browse the internet. You just don't know that because we know humans don't remember numbers as well as names. The names mean something to us, so we know them and can use those. So DNS is there to make the conversion for us. This setting for primary and secondary DNS is necessary for internet access. (You need at least one to work. It's not necessary to have both as long as one works.) Google provides free public DNS you can point to, and it will work just fine. 8.8.8.8 8.8.4.4 DNS is like a phone book. You know the name of the person you're wanting to talk to, but can't remember the number. 5. Physical Connectivity - If you're relying on DHCP, both devices will have to be connected to your device that is handing out the addresses via DHCP. This can be directly or via a switch. (think of a switch as being a splitter for ethernet. It's MUCH more sophisticated than that, but for your purposes you can think of it this way.) This will handle the addressing portion as well as make the physical connection properly. You'd only have to configure your devices to use DHCP, and they will get addresses from the DHCP server and you'll be set. If you don't have a router or switch, you'll have to plug a cable directly between your two devices. Since this is an xbox group, we'll focus on cat5 cables and above. (You should be using at least cat5e in this day and age.) Network cables by default are called "straight through". What you need to know is they have 4 pairs of wires inside of them. Some are designated as send. Others receive. For the devices to communicate, one device has to have it's send connected to the other's receive... or else they won't be able to hear each other talk. Switches do this automatically. Some devices will sense this automatically and make the change on their own. This feature is called MDI/MDIX. The xbox doesn't have this feature. If your pc doesn't, you'll have to have what is called a "crossover cable". This cable simply connects send to receive so your two devices can communicate without a switch. 6. Usage - You may ask for clarification on this article, but don't ask for any more networking advice outside of this article. Everything you need is right here. If you're wanting someone to just tell you what to put into each box, ask obama. If you're not willing to do the work yourself and try to understand what you're doing... you don't belong here. If you see someone asking for networking advice in our group, send them the link to this write-up.
    7 points
  46. I'll add my url collection of ogxbox 3d print files MattySudz legendary 3d prints MattySudz ogxbox 3d print files: https://www.mediafire.com/file/e09xzobmrnba83j/MattySudz_XBOX_STLs.zip/file Virus Total test result: https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/ac398e5d0cd313bba9a13b8fe44bcf81518be965a3586a0cecdd51fc1fb41167?nocache=1 3D print fan brackets 3d prints Noctua 60mm fan bracket (A): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4617648 Noctua 60mm fan bracket (B): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5460707 Noctua 60mm fan bracket (C): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5369322 Nexxus 70mm fan bracket: https://www.printables.com/model/79247-original-xbox-70mm-nexus-fan-adapter-and-mount Xbox v1.0 gpu 40mm fan bracket: https://www.printables.com/en/model/79249-original-xbox-10-gpu-40mm-fan-adapter Fan hole fill: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/original-xbox-fan-hole-fill-1-0 OGX360 3d prints OGX360 T4.1 case: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/ogx360-t4-1 Xbox controller & thumbsticks 3d prints Xbox One to OGXbox Duke/S thumbstick adapter (works on 360 controllers too): https://www.printables.com/en/model/139382-thumbstick-adaptor-for-original-xbox-duke-s-contro Xbox Duke/S thumbstick: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2474639 Xbox Duke/S USB to memory unit adapter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4077036 Xbox Duke cable strain relief adapter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5423476 Modchip 3d prints OpenXenium support holder: https://www.printables.com/en/model/313758-xbox-original-openxenium-holder HDD ide to sata adapters, hdd caddy adapters 3d prints HDD adapter for stock dvd drive caddy: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4461734 2.5 to 3.5 inch hdd adapter for stock hdd caddy (A): https://www.printables.com/model/351702-xbox-25-inch-to-35-inch-adapter 2.5 to 3.5 inch hdd adapter for stock hdd caddy (B): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5596972 Tool-less 2.5 to 3.5 hdd caddy adapter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4970131 Generic sata to ide hdd : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3791879 Startech sata to ide hdd bracket: Xbox console outer shell 3d prints Xbox feet with o'rings: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4725922 Xbox dvd drive blanking plate: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5394953 Vertical console stand: https://www.printables.com/en/model/466979-original-xbox-vertical-stand Xbox v1.0-1.4 to v1.6 conversion: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5732958 Xbox v1.0-1.6 front faceplate: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5415785 Xecuter X3CP control panel scan: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5152786 X3CP control panel round buttons: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4854287 X3CP control panel wide buttons: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3731819
    7 points
  47. I recently got asked for some tips on this upgrade and figured others could benefit from the info as well. So for posterity, here's what I recall as being the most relevant info, condensed. There's 2 important topics to get right which require some strategy: alignment needs to be dead-on, and the interposer needs some help to be mounted flat. I'll explain why. For alignment, generally you can be just under half a pitch off with your BGA alignment and it'll work out fine when the chip settles. So, the BGA pitch on this motherboard of 1.25mm suggests alignment is very forgiving. However, vias centered within groups of pads are not nicely tented, and instead take up most of the leeway you'd normally have with alignment. I'd say you don't have ~0.6mm of tolerance, but rather about 0.15mm. To assure I get good alignment, the first thing I do is eliminate the possibility of bridges forming between the BGA pads and nearby vias. You can simply tent these vias manually using UV curable solder mask. Takes about 10-15 minutes, and with this, a lot of alignment margin is recovered. At the same time, I place some 0603 resistors near corners of the BGA array and interposer outline. See the red marked circles below. The BGA pads on the underside of the interposer do not cover the entire interposer area, so the interposer tends to tilt/slant during reflow because it's gravity center is off. When the interposer is tilted, BGA balls can get too compressed and are unnecessarily stressed. Now the 0603 resistors just happen to have a height very similar to properly compressed 0.76mm solder balls, so this very simple approach ensures the interposer will get mounted flat. Next, my definitive way to get perfect alignments, after a number of less precise prior attempts: I drilled through the corner BGA pads on the underside of a sacrificial interposer. See circles in picture below. The resulting holes allows to see the xbox BGA pads underneath, and thereby align the sacrificial interposer perfectly. Then, I tape it down temporarily. The next step is to fix this interposer in place. The idea is that by placing e.g. 0805 capacitors along the edges of this interposer, we can lift it up and replace it with a fresh interposer in exactly the same position. Furthermore, because the interposer cannot move laterally, the interposer won't "dance", and therefore balls cannot join with the vias centered within groups of pads either. With the alignment also being spot on, there shouldn't be a "snap" when the BGA aligns itself due to surface tension either. I believe this thoroughly eliminates everything that could potentially yield faulty mounts. The very last optimization I added was to place a single case screw diagonally over the interposer as depicted above. This counteracts the weight imbalance due to the BGA pads being off-center underneath the interposer. The positioning I found is determined experimentally and results in the interposer settling down perfectly straight, i.e. all 4 corners go simultaneously. This isn't super important since we already guarantee flat mounts due to the 0603 resistors acting as standoffs from a prior step. Running short on time for this writeup so I'll conclude with the only other vital step: use a bismuth compound solder paste for the CPU itself. Bismuth solder has much lower melting point than normal leaded, so this allows soldering of the CPU without inadvertently reflowing the interposer (but with a lot of added weight on top, potentially squashing the balls!).
    7 points
  48. Hi Guys I was able to get Grand Theft Auto San Andreas NTSC-U HDD fix. Still working on Conflict Global Terror (NTSC-U) or Conflict Vietnam (NTSC-U), if anyone has managed to getting it fixed please let me know. Grand Theft Auto San Andreas (1st Edition - Title ID 54540082) [US] [HDD Fix].zip Grand Theft Auto San Andreas (2nd Edition - Title ID 545400A3) [US] [HDD Fix].zip
    7 points

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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