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My Og XBox Won't Turn On.


Guilleack
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Hi people, i bought an softmoded OG Xbox a couple of months ago with an 80GB Ide hard drive. I wasn't able to use it because i needed to get an Voltage converter (v220 to v110, 300W) and i wasn't able to test it untill now. During that time i replaced the thermal paste following some tutorials and cleaned the upper case. Now that i have the converter the console won't turn on. It doesn't make any noise. I checked the capacitors and all of them seem to be alright (Flat on the top and no leaking) and i tried with a different power cable and nothing. Thanks for your time.

Here are some pics of the console.

https://imgur.com/a/3XkDNpe

https://imgur.com/a/h9GBXQS

Edited by Guilleack
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It does look clean. 

Do you have a volt meter ? 

I would if you can test the ouputs on the powersupply. Obviously being very careful as the whole thing is nor shielded etc.

There are pin outs showing what volts should be present where etc.

yours is one of the later psu types with a similar plug to a computer. 

Before that though check the solder on the back of the psu, especially where the mains connector is as the solder cracks under load and use, if there are cracks you just need to resolder it to get rid of the cracks etc.

It could be as simple as that., obviously it helps if you have more than one Xbox to play with for testing bits.

Where are you based there may be a member near by who could help etc.

 

 

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13 hours ago, big F said:

It does look clean. 

Do you have a volt meter ? 

I would if you can test the ouputs on the powersupply. Obviously being very careful as the whole thing is nor shielded etc.

There are pin outs showing what volts should be present where etc.

yours is one of the later psu types with a similar plug to a computer. 

Before that though check the solder on the back of the psu, especially where the mains connector is as the solder cracks under load and use, if there are cracks you just need to resolder it to get rid of the cracks etc.

It could be as simple as that., obviously it helps if you have more than one Xbox to play with for testing bits.

Where are you based there may be a member near by who could help etc.

 

 

Thanks for your reply!

I have a multimeter, i'll check it out.

Here is a pic of the back of the psu, seems to be in good shape.

The problem is that i don't know if i should refund the Voltage Converter or the problem is on the Xbox.

eO06zMs.jpg

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A different tac on this might be to try a correct voltage psu for the box. Someone on here is bound to have a spare that they could mail to you. That way you are running it with out the voltage convertor and if indeed it is the cause youll know fairly instantly.

Im guessing that as you are going 220 to 110 you are in the states in which case there are quite a few users on that side of the pond.

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I contacted a friend of my dad that is the electrical technician of his work to test the converter and he said that the converter was working.properly. Could it be that the power button is not working?

12 hours ago, big F said:

A different tac on this might be to try a correct voltage psu for the box. Someone on here is bound to have a spare that they could mail to you. That way you are running it with out the voltage convertor and if indeed it is the cause youll know fairly instantly.

Im guessing that as you are going 220 to 110 you are in the states in which case there are quite a few users on that side of the pond.

Unfortunately i live on the other side of the continet (Argentina) here the power outlets have 220v i learned that the hard way with an imported Xbox 360 (Toasted the power suply).

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So basically you need a uk spec powersupply, as they are 220/240v

 

that said it could be the power button. You  could test it with a mulitmeter.

 

there is a way to put a normal atx pc psu onto an xbox. So you could look at that. 

Its not as simple as just plugging in though.

 

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41 minutes ago, big F said:

So basically you need a uk spec powersupply, as they are 220/240v

 

that said it could be the power button. You  could test it with a mulitmeter.

 

there is a way to put a normal atx pc psu onto an xbox. So you could look at that. 

Its not as simple as just plugging in though.

 

Can you point out where i should place the multimeter to test the power button?

Sorry that i ask so much, this is my first Xbox and i have no clue on how to proceed.

Thanks!

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Well i tried the psu with a multimeter and it gives 3.3 on the black and brown wires, but as long as i just put one of the multimeter lead, if i put both leads on different cables it gives 0, This means that the PSU is fine? (Someone on reddit recomended me to test this)

http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1/Power_Supply_Pinouts/

Here is a pic of the back of the board, i saw some people saying that they had corrosion and cleaning it fixed the problem but mine seems clean.

IMG_20180915_063350.jpg

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Check for continuity of the power control signal trace from the front panel connector to the PIC processor. 5b9d6e92cd25f_PowerEjectRedGreenControlSignals.thumb.jpg.b1cbb382c3ff8aa937e02f40b6d3139f.jpg

If that thin trace is cracked/corroded/broken, the Xbox will not power on as the signal never reaches the System Management Controller (SMC) to tell the power supply to power up all the voltage rails.

I can't make out those 4 traces in your picture as they are so thin.

Edited by KaosEngineer
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14 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:

Check for continuity of the power control signal trace from the front panel connector to the PIC processor. 5b9d6e92cd25f_PowerEjectRedGreenControlSignals.thumb.jpg.b1cbb382c3ff8aa937e02f40b6d3139f.jpg

If that thin trace is cracked/corroded/broken, the Xbox will not power on as the signal never reaches the System Management Controller (SMC) to tell the power supply to power up all the voltage rails.

I can't make out those 4 traces in your picture as they are so thin.

I tested the continuity as marked here and all of them seem to work.

 pe_trace_12-15.jpg

I took some close up pictures of the back of the board, Should i try to clean them with isopropyl alcohol?

i found this 

Thanks!

 

IMG_20180916_070325.jpg

IMG_20180916_070421.jpg

IMG_20180916_064505.jpg

IMG_20180916_064803.jpg

IMG_20180916_065046.jpg

IMG_20180916_065047.jpg

IMG_20180916_065119_1.jpg

IMG_20180916_065148.jpg

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It could be the Smc is broken on the psu. It’s a common thing on pc psu’s which the Xbox psu is a version of, albeit a heavily modified one. You should be able to simulate the power button press by connecting two of the cables in the multi plug. Can’t remember which ones and I’m not at home so can’t check. Basically if the psu doesn’t power up the hd and hold it powered when doing this test it will be the smc circuit on the psu. They can be replaced but most people just get a replacement psu instead.

as said there is a way to plug a pc power supply in to an Xbox, google it as iirc for the 1.4 version it’s not to hard to build the conversion lead etc. Might get you out of a hole and help you on the way etc.

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Can be a problem on the switchboard mounted in the front panel too.  Verify operation of the button closure grounding the signal.

xbox_pe_schematic.png.e61d30a3b1b56e96a963fcf3ebd08fc4.png

http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1/Power-Eject_Pinouts/

The RED (power) line at the motherboard resistor network should go from +Vcc when the button is not pressed to 0Vdc when pressed.

Edited by KaosEngineer
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  • 1 year later...

To check the Power and Eject buttons, measure the voltage level of the two pins, one for power and another for eject, at the PIC processor when you press the associated button for the pin.  It should go from 3.3 Vdc to 0 Vdc when depressed and return to 3.3 Vdc when released.  If not changing, start back tracking the connection of each button from the PIC towards the front panel til you reach the button itself.  (Requires removing the Xbox case's front panel. A bit tricky to do to get to the PCB with the switches and LEDs.)

pe_trace_12-15.jpg.f7b39d3704a80149b926836e494f4aba.jpg

With AC power connected, first measure the voltage level of the violet (conditioned power signal) and cyan (conditioned eject signal) colored pins of the PIC processor when pressing and releasing the power and eject buttons. If the voltage level does not change, move back to the same colored vias on the bottom of the picture above.  If the voltage level changes there, the traces are broken somewhere between the via to the PIC processor - broken or damaged trace.

Next, disconnect AC power.  Change the multimeter to measure continuity, lowest resistance range.  Connect the probes, black to ground and red to either the red or blue colored side of either surface mount resistor does the reading change when the associate button is pressed and released.  

frontpanelheader640.jpg.463c3336def84cb2a14cc83556a27cdc.jpg

Next, with AC power still disconnected, measure for a change in resistance level at the pin of the front panel connector to the motherboard associated with each switch.  Do they change?  If not, move to the single row of pins on the back of the front panel and measure the resistance for changes when the buttons are pressed.  Do they change?  If not, remove the console's front panel and disconnect the cable connecting to the motherboard.  Now, measure for changes in the resistance across the traces connecting to each switch on the printed circuit board.

With each step, you can determine where the problem lies - switch, front panel pcb, front panel cable, surface mount resistor on the motherboard next to the front panel connector, broken/rotted trace from electrolyte leak or production contamination.

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58 minutes ago, KaosEngineer said:

To check the Power and Eject buttons, measure the voltage level of the two pins, one for power and another for eject, at the PIC processor when you press the associated button for the pin.  It should go from 3.3 Vdc to 0 Vdc when depressed and return to 3.3 Vdc when released.  If not changing, start back tracking the connection of each button from the PIC towards the front panel til you reach the button itself.  (Requires removing the Xbox case's front panel. A bit tricky to do to get to the PCB with the switches and LEDs.)

pe_trace_12-15.jpg.f7b39d3704a80149b926836e494f4aba.jpg

With AC power connected, first measure the voltage level of the violet (conditioned power signal) and cyan (conditioned eject signal) colored pins of the PIC processor when pressing and releasing the power and eject buttons. If the voltage level does not change, move back to the same colored vias on the bottom of the picture above.  If the voltage level changes there, the traces are broken somewhere between the via to the PIC processor - broken or damaged trace.

Next, disconnect AC power.  Change the multimeter to measure continuity, lowest resistance range.  Connect the probes, black to ground and red to either the red or blue colored side of either surface mount resistor does the reading change when the associate button is pressed and released.  

frontpanelheader640.jpg.463c3336def84cb2a14cc83556a27cdc.jpg

Next, with AC power still disconnected, measure for a change in resistance level at the pin of the front panel connector to the motherboard associated with each switch.  Do they change?  If not, move to the single row of pins on the back of the front panel and measure the resistance for changes when the buttons are pressed.  Do they change?  If not, remove the console's front panel and disconnect the cable connecting to the motherboard.  Now, measure for changes in the resistance across the traces connecting to each switch on the printed circuit board.

With each step, you can determine where the problem lies - switch, front panel pcb, front panel cable, surface mount resistor on the motherboard next to the front panel connector, broken/rotted trace from electrolyte leak or production contamination.

Thanks a lot for the help, i tested the first step before proceeding to brush the mobo with isopropyl alcohol and it turned on! i got error 6 but that may be due to not connecting everything (I mean the controller ports and the disk drive)

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Information on two Xbox startup errors: 5 and 6

5 - kernel - HDD not locked (The retail xbox bioses require the hd to be locked)

When you upgrade your hard disk drive for one that is larger, you most of the times use a new hard drive that you bought in the shop. Now, when you put this hdd in your xbox and you try to boot up with your chip off. It gives you error 5. Why you ask? Well i will try to explain it simple.

The original (also called "Retail") hard drive is locked by MS. Why did they lock the harddrive?

Well if it wasn't it wouldve been more than easy (in the start of xbox hacking)
for hackers to change content on it. Thats why MS locks it. It is just a security measure.

This locking proces uses information thats on the motherboard. The "Lock" on a xbox hard drive contains information that is based on the harddrive itself and the motherboard it came with.

One thing that makes this clear: You can not change a retail harddrive with another one from an other not modded xbox. With every xbox there is only ONE i repeat ONE compatible harddisk drive. That is, if they are locked.

If you don't mod your xbox (tsop or modchips) you can not change harddrives. Not even from another xbox. However when your xbox IS modified you can change your harddisk for almost every other harddisk (thats UNLOCKED). This means that even when your xbox is modified, you can not just put another (retail) XBOX harddisk in your xbox. However some smart people made programs that can lock or unlock your xbox harddisk on the fly.

So when does the error occur? The only time this error should occur is when you boot up your xbox in original mode AND you have a harddisk in your xbox that is not yet locked. So now you ask what do i have to do to make your xbox work again?

Well the answer is pretty easy. Boot up your xbox with the chip on. Preferably with a slayer evo-x cd. Now you choose "Eeprom management." Than you choose: "Lock hdd." It takes one second. After its ready it should say something like "Done"
When it is "Done" just turn off your xbox. Disable your chip and try to boot in original mode. Now there should be no more error 5.

6 - kernel - Cannot unlock HDD

If you understand the above, you should be able to understand what this means. It means you are trying to boot up the xbox with an harddisk that is locked in combination with ANOTHER motherboard than you are using it with right now.

What can i do about it, you ask? Well place the harddisk back in the xbox where it came from. After that, UNLOCK the harddisk with the same procedure i explained above (see error 5). Now when the harddisk is UNLOCKED, put it in the xbox which gave you the error. Now when you boot up with the chip ON it should not give you an error anymore.

However when you put the xbox on with the chip OFF your xbox will give you an error. (error 5) So to make sure you can boot original and boot with the chip ON. Next do the same as above: "Boot up your xbox with the chip on. Preferrably with a slayer evo-x cd. Now you choose "Eeprom management." Than you choose: "Lock hdd." It takes one second. After its ready it should say something like "Done"
When it is ready just turn off your xbox. Disable your chip and try to boot original. Now there should be no more error.

Source: https://forums.afterdawn.com/threads/xbox-error-codes-explained-go-here-first.373255/

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  • 2 months later...

Hello again, so after beinG completely frustrated by this project so many times i left it again.... since i got that 6 and 7 error. A couple of days ago i found an old Office Computer in the garage and saw that it had a 80 pin IDE cable. I tried it on the OG Xbox and worked right away! So the main problem was, probably some kind of corrosion (As i stated before the console didn't turn on at all untill i brushed the motherboard and PSU completely with isopropyl alcohol) and the second problem was the Sata cable that was damaged.

Now that i know that it works i can spend more time on it, so i have a couple of new questions. Someone told me that i have a nichicon cap, should i remove it?

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Yes the corrode the board and have no actual function other than keeping the time when the power is disconnected. Since we cant use XboxLive, and most everyone has a modded dash, you can set the time on boot from the network or Internet.

 

If you really must have time then swapping the cap for a CR2032 coincell and holder tied to a diode will do the same and last many months. Back in the day I did a test on  Xbox Scene doing this with the cheapest of cheap CR2032 battery and it lasted nearly 6 months. There is a similar hack I do on Amiga computers that have the same problem.

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1 hour ago, big F said:

Yes the corrode the board and have no actual function other than keeping the time when the power is disconnected. Since we cant use XboxLive, and most everyone has a modded dash, you can set the time on boot from the network or Internet.

 

If you really must have time then swapping the cap for a CR2032 coincell and holder tied to a diode will do the same and last many months. Back in the day I did a test on  Xbox Scene doing this with the cheapest of cheap CR2032 battery and it lasted nearly 6 months. There is a similar hack I do on Amiga computers that have the same problem.

So i should just desolder it? Or i need to do something else beforehand.

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34 minutes ago, Guilleack said:

So i should just desolder it? Or i need to do something else beforehand.

Yes simple as that. You can just pull it off and it’s legs will separate then just cut them off with side cutters and clean the area with iso and cotton buds.

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18 hours ago, big F said:

Yes simple as that. You can just pull it off and it’s legs will separate then just cut them off with side cutters and clean the area with iso and cotton buds.

Thanks, i had this wrong idea that i needed to do some kind of firmware modification to make the console boot without the cap. (Something related to a bootloop maybe? )

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6 hours ago, Guilleack said:

Thanks, i had this wrong idea that i needed to do some kind of firmware modification to make the console boot without the cap. (Something related to a bootloop maybe? )

No not at all. I fact I did this some time back to a 100%. (Except for that) Xbox. That I have kept that way just because...

 

Edited by big F
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