Flowlance Posted July 25, 2018 Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 (edited) Ok this is really frustrating. The xbox flashes green/red (restarts 3 times). And I can't figure out what I've done wrong here. I felt like the job went really smooth. I have also cut the trace near the xbox chip (so it cannot boot from the xbox's bios anymore, right?). I tried desoldering everything, replacing the wires, removing unused pins, adding them back. Grounding D0 (Even though I cut the trace, I decided to try). What else can I try? This was my precious crystal xbox too, and was excited to get the job done Edit: I tried the Aladdin modchip in a 1.4 Xbox, and it worked just fine there. I also checked continuity on the lpc rebuild, and it seems to be fine. No shorts. Did I get any of the wires wrong? Edited July 25, 2018 by Flowlance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlorn Penguin Posted July 25, 2018 Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 Not sure if it's related to the issue or not, but the extra wire that you have soldered to that screw plate is unneeded. Maybe try it without that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowlance Posted July 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 44 minutes ago, Forlorn Penguin said: Not sure if it's related to the issue or not, but the extra wire that you have soldered to that screw plate is unneeded. Maybe try it without that? I installed that wire in an attempt to fix this issue, no difference in removing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traace Posted July 25, 2018 Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, Flowlance said: Edit: I tried the Aladdin modchip in a 1.4 Xbox, and it worked just fine there. Did you flash correct Bios on your modchip that is 1.6 compatible? From Reddit: "If you cut the LFRAME trace it completely prevents the stock ROM in Xyclops chip to be loaded. FRAG behavior (Reboot 3 times and Flash Red And Green) is then expected when no chip is inserted" So I assume -> in your case, modchip bios is just wrong, Want a working EvoX for 1.6 (my personal bios)? Just tell me how big your modchip flash block is and location of your dashboards Edited July 25, 2018 by Traace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowlance Posted July 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2018 1 hour ago, Traace said: Did you flash correct Bios on your modchip that is 1.6 compatible? From Reddit: "If you cut the LFRAME trace it completely prevents the stock ROM in Xyclops chip to be loaded. FRAG behavior (Reboot 3 times and Flash Red And Green) is then expected when no chip is inserted" So I assume -> in your case, modchip bios is just wrong, Want a working EvoX for 1.6 (my personal bios)? Just tell me how big your modchip flash block is and location of your dashboards I just tried flashing the modchip from a 1.4 Xbox using hexen, and putting a 256k 1.6 bios on it. The 1.4 system obviously would not boot with this chip anymore. I moved it over to the 1.6, but the same issue persists. I think even the Aladdin comes with a bios supported for all Xbox versions though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironsniper1 Posted July 26, 2018 Report Share Posted July 26, 2018 (edited) check your wiring against this link https://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php/Attachment/72198-Aladdin-XT-installation-Guide-pdf/ i used it to add a aladdin chip to a 1,6 xbox but i didnt cut the trace, also double check all your wires and make sure they are soldered to the correct area as i had that issue and i didnt get it fixed until i checked my wiring Edited July 26, 2018 by ironsniper1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlorn Penguin Posted July 26, 2018 Report Share Posted July 26, 2018 The Aladdin comes pre-flashed with a 1.6 compatible BIOS, so that's not the issue (though it still should be reflashed because the EvoX M8+ configuration it uses is pretty bad). The L-Frame trace definitely needs to be cut, so that's not the issue either. It must be either the wiring, or some solder splashes somewhere. 1.6 installs are very finicky. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowlance Posted July 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 Ok a small update on this case, I couldn't find any solder splashes/balls anywhere so I desoldered everything, washed the whole motherboard in a bucket of water, and rebuilt the lpc for the 3rd time. Now it was time to test it. To my surprise it actually showed the boot animation (with the Evo X logo in top left), but THEN... the screen went solid pink. I rebooted it, and now the Xbox stays on with green leds, but it does not show anything on the screen. I guess this Mobo is FUBAR. If anyone got a spare 1.6 to sell, let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironsniper1 Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 if you washed it with water you should have waiting atleast a week for all of the water to dry out before even powering it on as there was probably some water trapped some where and that smoked the board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Reese Posted July 27, 2018 Report Share Posted July 27, 2018 Yeah, probably should have just cleaned it with the highest % rubbing alcohol you could find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowlance Posted July 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 I thank you all for all your suggestion. Yes, turning it on in less than 24 hours was probably not the smartest move. We're experiencing 35 degrees in Norway these days (insane!), and I left it out in the sun a whole day and it seemed to be completely dry. I decided to give this board one more chance, desoldering everything and doing it over. And cleaned the board with a tiny bit of isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. All of a sudden, it works now. So there might have been some water shorting it out, I have no idea really. I don't really trust this is going to work forever, but I'm happy it finally works! I didn't have much confidence in my soldering skills so actually achieving something feels really good. So I went ahead and replaced the clock capacitor and thermal paste, and removed pin 6 from the lpc as this kept the Aladdin's red LED on all the time, even when the system is turned off. Every once in a while I get a disc read error though (with both original and burned games), not sure what causes this. Maybe a bad dvd drive? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironsniper1 Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 congrats! another console saved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forlorn Penguin Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 Yeah, don't play games via the disc. Ever. Really bad idea. These DVD drives are old and unreliable and frequently die these days. Always, always, always play games via the HDD and preserve the DVD drive in case you ever need it in the future to run a recovery disc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transitman55 Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 I'm having the same problem. What gauge wire did you use? Hopefully, I will get mine to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wikati Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 1 hour ago, transitman55 said: I'm having the same problem. What gauge wire did you use? Hopefully, I will get mine to work. sounds to me like op's soldering was bad in his first attempt. if the console worked prior to the install, its usually always bad soldering.... usually.... i've screwed around so much in the past only to come back to bad solder. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transitman55 Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 I checked every wire with a multimeter for continuity. Does the D0 ground on the Aladdin chip have to be grounded? Some yes, some no in the research I've done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosEngineer Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 (edited) D0 does not have to be connected on a 1.6 console. D0 is an output from the Aladdin chip. It should not be tied to ground. It grounds the D0 point for 1.0-1.4/5 Xboxes. Not required to be connected to D0 on the motherboard for a 1.6 since it always boots from an LPC connected device be it the Xyclops chip or the modchip. Cutting LFRAME prevents the Xyclops BIOS from loading. Edited January 25, 2019 by KaosEngineer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transitman55 Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 I'll recheck again. Thanks for all the suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transitman55 Posted January 25, 2019 Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 Is it possible to restore the Lframe cut to get the board to repost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosEngineer Posted January 26, 2019 Report Share Posted January 26, 2019 (edited) Yes, you can add a jumper across the cut. Remove the modchip and the onboard BIOS should boot. Edited January 26, 2019 by KaosEngineer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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