Jump to content
Blake Clements

How To Install an Aladdin XT Plus 2 Modchip in a 1.6 Xbox

Recommended Posts

I took a 1.6 board I have laying around and decided to do a speed-mod. I paid no attention to quality of solder joints, length of wires, or anything else that a more experienced technician might look at. I did it as quickly and as shoddy as I could, so I could show results similar to what the average Joe may expect. I'm not trying to talk it down. THIS WORKS, and that is what matters and that's what this guide is for. 

1. Insert the pinheader. Hold it with one finger against the board and flip it over. Solder 1 pin on the bottom side in place. Make sure your finger is not touching this pin on the other side. Let it cool, and then look to solder the opposite corner (diagonally). Don't let your finger touch that pin this time, and solder it in place. Now you can stop pressing on the opposite side with your finger, and just solder all of the rest of the pins in place. (A MUCH better way than using your finger, is to add a drop of super glue between the plastic holding the pins, and the board. Don't let it touch the metal or it will cook away in a very eye-irritating vapor.)

LPC Pinheader

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Now we're going to attach the wires to rebuild the lpc. On the top is the guide you should use. On the bottom is the demo job I did, and yours should look similar or better. You'll notice on the bottom picture, the LFrame/D0 wire is soldered to a pad you don't see anywhere else. The guide tells you to solder it to the chip, and the chip has a pad for it. That's not necessary. Just solder it to the pad I show you. That pad is ground, and grounding LFrame/D0 causes the Xbox to boot from LPC instead of the onboard rom. Doing this allows you to take the chip off at will for hotswapping/flashing other chips. (The dark colorations in the bottom pic are not burns. I use rosin-core solder. I usually clean it off to look nicer, but in this case I was trying to demonstrate a real-world normal job someone might do.)

LPC Rebuild Guide 


 

 

 

 

 

2_2.thumb.jpg.1f28c20e671926241d345fcd6b6c48fd.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. Now it's time to get the Aladdin ready to go in. It has features built in for xbox live, which no longer exists for the original Xbox... so we need to defeat those features. Solder the BT pad on the Aladdin to the pad shown. This will enable the chip as soon as power is pressed.

Aladdin BT Ground

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. Now you're ready to fit your chip and test it out. It mounts on the pinheader like this:

Chip Fitted

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
glitchd    1

I have an aladdin chip that the pad for BT ripped off. Theoretically, couldnt I just bridge the pins together with a small blob of solder since they are right next to each other on the Lattice chip itself?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
glitchd    1

Also, in the first picture at the top of the page that shows the pin header in the lpc, there isnt a pin missing. I was under the impression that a pin had to be remove?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, glitchd said:

Also, in the first picture at the top of the page that shows the pin header in the lpc, there isnt a pin missing. I was under the impression that a pin had to be remove?

No. On a 1.6, you don't need to remove a pin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, glitchd said:

I have an aladdin chip that the pad for BT ripped off. Theoretically, couldnt I just bridge the pins together with a small blob of solder since they are right next to each other on the Lattice chip itself?

In that case yes. Good luck. Those pins are tiny. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
T2Steve    12
On 2017-04-28 at 9:11 PM, glitchd said:

I have an aladdin chip that the pad for BT ripped off. Theoretically, couldnt I just bridge the pins together with a small blob of solder since they are right next to each other on the Lattice chip itself?

you could scrape some of the masking off the trace and tag that instead

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
T2Steve    12

worked this all goddamned night and i still haven't got the LPC quite right.. tomorrow will remove D0 and see if it stops FRAG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
glitchd    1
On 5/1/2017 at 1:31 PM, T2Steve said:

you could scrape some of the masking off the trace and tag that instead

 

That's exactly what I did. Worked imperfectly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MrMajst3r    1

I always remove 6th pin of the pinheader for 1.6 Xboxes. They have 5V active in standby. If you leave this pin, Aladdin's LED will light all the time when console is plugged in. I think it's annoying. 

I also never ground D0, it's better to solder it to modchip's D0 point. When modchip fails, with grounded D0 console will FRAG, whereas with D0 soldered to modchip, console will boot from motherboard's bios.

 

pinheader_1.6.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tim    3

hiya..

as much as I appreciate a post for "average joe" with no prior soldering skills, I would like to add a few things:

If you are new to soldering and attempt this get yourself a few things:

- A cheap multimeter that beeps when the setting is set to continuity (these cost no more then 3$)
it is dead easy to use (and will come in handy in a milion little repairs around the house)
This function of a multimeter is used to measure if point A and B are connected on a board.
(A)------------(B) = beep
(A)----    -----(B) = no beep (and a break in your line)

You will notice lines on a board running from where you solder to somewhere else.. these lines are called traces... for rookie soldering guys it isn't uncommon to solder too deep in a board and somehow breaking (or ripping) a trace line... so the beep check is good to check if you eyeball your work and think.. hmm.. lets check

Another thing the beep check is extremely (!) handy for it to see if your solder job didn't accidentally solder onto something else... especially if it's small.. just hold the two leads on both the points and no beep.. great, you didn't connect your solder... get a beep? then use some braid to remover the solder and go for it again.

- Secondly I highly highly recommend you get a cheap 15w soldering (pen style) iron with a pointed tip.. please don't use your dad's old soldering iron with a thick tip (guess how i started back then).. it usually will run far too hot (as it's meant for soldering larger objects) making you burn through a board and potentially wreck it.. a cheap pen style can be picked up for 5-10$.. if you're thinking of doing a lot more, have a looksee for temperature controller soldering irons.. the china models are absolutely low in price, since soldering irons aren't rocket science, so might be worth it depending on how often you'll use.

- When rebuilding the LPC.. you might absolutely want to stick down the wires so that can not move around.. solder points can detach over time.. hot glue is one option, but I've never been a fan of that myself.. if you do glue I highly recommend you don't glue on the solder point, but a bit off from that.. should you ever need to resolder then you don't have to worry about the glue. when I started I used heatresistant foam tape, but these days there is a whole range of heatresistant tape available and even compleet sheets in sizes.. I wouldn't recommend generic electric tape because their 'stickyness' wears out very fast when stuck to a mainboard.

- And lost, but MOST important.. keep in mind you're messing with electricity.. I've modded thousands of devices and know what I'm doing.. and even so, I have told every single customer I ever had to use an extension cord with a on/off switch.. and turn it off on the extension switch when you are done playing. If you've ever seen a housefire.. the 2 seconds to flip it off/on is worth it :)

 

happy modding!

Tim

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, Tim said:

hiya..

as much as I appreciate a post for "average joe" with no prior soldering skills, I would like to add a few things:

If you are new to soldering and attempt this get yourself a few things:

- A cheap multimeter that beeps when the setting is set to continuity (these cost no more then 3$)
it is dead easy to use (and will come in handy in a milion little repairs around the house)
This function of a multimeter is used to measure if point A and B are connected on a board.
(A)------------(B) = beep
(A)----    -----(B) = no beep (and a break in your line)

You will notice lines on a board running from where you solder to somewhere else.. these lines are called traces... for rookie soldering guys it isn't uncommon to solder too deep in a board and somehow breaking (or ripping) a trace line... so the beep check is good to check if you eyeball your work and think.. hmm.. lets check

Another thing the beep check is extremely (!) handy for it to see if your solder job didn't accidentally solder onto something else... especially if it's small.. just hold the two leads on both the points and no beep.. great, you didn't connect your solder... get a beep? then use some braid to remover the solder and go for it again.

- Secondly I highly highly recommend you get a cheap 15w soldering (pen style) iron with a pointed tip.. please don't use your dad's old soldering iron with a thick tip (guess how i started back then).. it usually will run far too hot (as it's meant for soldering larger objects) making you burn through a board and potentially wreck it.. a cheap pen style can be picked up for 5-10$.. if you're thinking of doing a lot more, have a looksee for temperature controller soldering irons.. the china models are absolutely low in price, since soldering irons aren't rocket science, so might be worth it depending on how often you'll use.

- When rebuilding the LPC.. you might absolutely want to stick down the wires so that can not move around.. solder points can detach over time.. hot glue is one option, but I've never been a fan of that myself.. if you do glue I highly recommend you don't glue on the solder point, but a bit off from that.. should you ever need to resolder then you don't have to worry about the glue. when I started I used heatresistant foam tape, but these days there is a whole range of heatresistant tape available and even compleet sheets in sizes.. I wouldn't recommend generic electric tape because their 'stickyness' wears out very fast when stuck to a mainboard.

- And lost, but MOST important.. keep in mind you're messing with electricity.. I've modded thousands of devices and know what I'm doing.. and even so, I have told every single customer I ever had to use an extension cord with a on/off switch.. and turn it off on the extension switch when you are done playing. If you've ever seen a housefire.. the 2 seconds to flip it off/on is worth it :)

 

happy modding!

Tim

Thank you Tim. Good advice.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tim    3

oh few more tips :)

- try NOT to cross your wires on a lpc rebuild.. i've seen it cause glitches

- when bending wires, it's Always better to use a slight curve instead of a 90degree hook (just sometimes a cable breaks inside of its shielding under a hook.. not very common, but still, i tend to use curves)

- not 1.6 related but still a good tip... i love using flux.. if you first start using it, it's almost magic guiding your solder to only stick on places it should... however when you want to TSOP flash (connecting two points close to eachother).. the flux will often cause the two points not to touch.. so for tsopping I highly recommend not to use flux :) just thought I'd throw in that tip too

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
UKXboxDad    1
On 17/05/2017 at 10:59 AM, T2Steve said:

worked this all goddamned night and i still haven't got the LPC quite right.. tomorrow will remove D0 and see if it stops FRAG

I have the same problem.  Addressing the soldering as soon as better equipment arrives. I hope it solves it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
barnito    9

Check this out... LPC Rebuild.

No automatic alt text available.

 

Aladdin Multibank!

Image may contain: table

I would NOT tie D0 to ground on a 1.6, get a mod chip that properly releases the D0 point from ground after boot to avoid damage, here I am using L1 on an Xblast chip. D0 is held to ground only until the bios is loaded to memory over LPC from the mod chip, then it is released. Not doing this can damage the MCPX over time due to high load on a data line not designed for the high current.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

    • By angelauds1990
      Hello everyone,
      I recently bought an Xbox and on the first day I turned it on and it booted up fine. Days later I am now trying to turn it on again and nothing.
      No lights, no sounds. I have another Xbox and the cable works fine. 
      What do I need to do to fix this issue!
    • By N64 freak
      As there might be a couple people out there who want to own an Xbox Alpha Development kit but don’t want to spend the Cash they cost I thought I just write up a guide how to build one yourself with off the shelf parts!
      This is not the first guide about this topic out there but hopefully the most detailed and helpfull!
      I’m going to do this as a picture supported step-by-step guide so it should be easy to follow for anybody.
       
      Let’s start with the parts used in the Alpha2 Console:
      -Intel VC820 Desktop Board                                            
      -128MB RD Ram (Kingston KVR800X 18-8/128)
      -733Mhz Slot 1 CPU  (Part number SL3XN)
      -250Watt ATX PSU (ATNG Model: PS-250S)
      -20GB IDE HDD (Fujitsu MPF3204AT)
      -3,5” FDD (Sony MPF920-C)
      -DVD Drive (Hitachi GD-7000)
      -64MB Geforce3 (180-P0050-0000-A05)
      -Network Card (Intel Pro/100)
      -Soundcard (Wolfson Micronics WM9707_AMR_EV1_Rev2)
      -USB Card (Xircom Portgear PGPCI2 )
       
       
      Now on to the parts you need to buy for a basic bootable setup:
      -Intel VC820 Desktop Board
      -128MB RD Ram
      -733Mhz Slot1 CPU
      -Any ATX PSU 250Watt or more
      -IDE HDD 20GB or bigger
      -Any DVD Drive that reads self-burned CD-r
      -64mb Geforce 3 NV20 Video Card ->more details a bit later!
      -Intel Pro/100 Network Card
       
       
      That’s the minimum that is needed to get the alpha to boot the recovery CD. If you want to be able to do anything except looking at the Recovery Screen you need some more parts:
      -2 Port USB Card that uses an Opti Firelink 82C861 Chipset
      -Xbox Controller to USB Adapter +Xbox Controller
      -Wolfson Micronics Soundcard (or the recreated Version)
       
       
      That’s how my stack off parts for the alpha looks like:
       

      Once you have all the parts together let’s start by putting it together!
      Guess I don’t have to cover how to install the CPU, Ram, Video Card, PSU, Network card, Audio Card and the Drives.
      The end result should look like this. It’s not important in which pci port the usb and lan card are installed. BUT it is important that the lan card is installed as the Alpha won’t boot otherwise!!!

      When it’s all put together turn it on and check that it properly posts and there are no errors or whatever before continuing!
       
       
      Now on to burning a recovery CD!
      (Thanks to Borman for releasing the May2001 Alpha2 recovery! All credit goes to him for the release!) You can find the files in the download section and can simply download them.
       
      Here's a direct link to the files on an external Server: Alpha Recoveries and VGA Bios
      Once downloaded just use ImgBurn (or any other iso burning software) to write the May2001 recovery to a cd-r disc.
      Pop that disc into the DVD drive off your alpha and you should see the Xbox animation and should be greated by this recovery Screen afterwards:
       
       

      Now (if you haven’t done it earlier) plug in the Controller using the matching adapter and Press any button to start the recovery. The progress bar should show how far the progress is. It shouldn’t take any longer than 5 Minutes to finish and you will see this screen. Then remove the recovery disc from the drive and reboot.
       
       

      You should then be greeted by the following screen where you can set a name for your alpha console.
       

      Congratulations your Alpha Development kit is now fully working and ready to be used!
       

       
       
      Soundcard:
      I recreated the Soundcard to build a completely working alpha kit for myself as the original Alpha soundcards are as rare as the original alphas. If you need one for your build just drop me a message and I can build a couple more!
       

       
       
      Graphics Card:
      The video card is an important part of this build so here’s a little extra information about that part.
      The Card needs to be an NV20 Core Card with 64mb. 32MB cards might also work but we want to be as close as possible so buy a 64mb card to not get into trouble!
      I successfully tested 2 card from 2 different vendors:
      -Medion MS-8838 Geforce3 200ti
      -MVGA-NVG3T2A 64MB
       
      Many other NV20 core cards should work and I gladly extend that list if you used another card on your build! J
      Flashing the engineering Bios is NOT needed it is only a cosmeticall detail you might enjoy.
      The motherboard does also not need to be on a special Bios version or anything.
       
      Troubleshooting:
      You Get a blinking black cursor and no Xbox boot animation?
      ->You might have forgotten to install the Lan card, got a wrong one or your Nvidia Card is not supported!
      Your DVD-drive doesn’t spin up and you end up with an intel Network card boot/bios Screen?
      ->Something might have gone wrong with the CD you burned or your drive can’t read the cd-r!
      Could also be a problem with the boot order!  Check that in the Bios the dvd drive should be the first boot device!
       
      If you have any questions about the build or anything just drop me a PM!

    • By MvZiC MaN
      Have a 1.6 Motherboard with matching Hard drive.
      (has a 1.0/1.1 GPU heatsink on it)

      1.6 Delta PSU

      OEM Fan
      also have controller ports from the same motherboard
      (Not Pictured) Can add leds to them for a few extra $$

      Im not 100% sure what everything is worth so make me a reasonable offer.
      US Shipping only and PayPal only please. Might have a few other
      extra parts laying around. Just ask and ill let you know.
       

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.