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Intro Since the beginning of time (2004) it was known that the 1.6 was missing the unpopulated footprints for the extra 4 RAM chips and this made the upgrade impossible. I was thinking recently that if all the signals for the extra RAM chips are still available on the board, we can add RAM to the 1.6 by just connecting all the necessary signals. After the tutorial segment I'll go into why this mod works. I'll also post a video on YouTube at some point. Be warned: this is more difficult that a 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade Tutorial Required items Everything mentioned in the 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade tutorial: https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:RAM_Upgrade 4x 90mm long mod-wire. I used enamelled wire from a transformer. ~8 hours spare time Step 1: flash the modified XBlast OS BIOS XBlast OS (as a BIOS) is super helpful in doing this install correctly. It will boot with any number of extra RAM chips and includes a test for the additional RAM. XBlast OS will not show the 128MB test option on a v1.6 Xbox, so I've gone ahead and rebuilt it from source with that check removed. xblast_os_v0.60.bin Alternative Download Link: https://mega.nz/file/eeAwTZKQ#aaFcbACj3htA6cEtKwoiy1L7uK93o4YwUSqkGBEsUz8 If you don't trust my build, this is the line of code that needs removing: At this point, I suggest booting it up and running the test. The test is under Settings > Tools > 128MB RAM test Step 2: Remove the motherboard from the Xbox Step 3: Place the new RAM chip on top of an existing chip You'll want to solder down the corner pins first to get a good mechanical bond and so that you can adjust the alignment. I do this by pushing down pins 30 and 31 and soldering them down to the chip below. Then I check the alignment of the rest of the pins. If it's bad, then the chip can be nudged into position while reflowing the two pins. Then solder the two pins opposite. Step 4: Push down the rest of the pins Except pin 28! That is the chip select pin and it is unique for each RAM chip. Leave this pin floating in the air and don't solder it yet. Pin 30 is marked on the PCB. The pins come in a kind of ‾‾\__ shape. When you push them down, the whole pin will rotate around this end -> ‾‾\__ . I like to also push down the tail ‾‾\__ <- of the pin to get more contact with the chip below. Step 5: Start soldering all the pins Very little extra solder is required. Use lots of flux. I like the tacky flux that usually comes in syringes. I also like the drag-soldering method. If there's any excess solder, you will get shorts between pins and this extra solder can be wicked away. The new pins won't naturally touch the pins below even after pushing them down. Step 6: Check for shorts and missing connections For the first pass, I like to go in with a microscope and nudge each pin (of the new chip) with a cold soldering iron tip. If the pin moves easily, it is not soldered. Also check for shorts at the same time. If you have the patience (and want it to work first try without frying your Xbox), check for shorts and continuity with a multimeter. I skipped this the first time and got bitten! Best to clean the pins and pads with IPA before checking with the multimeter. Step 7: Add the chip-select wire First, figure out which bank you are adding: Then, find the chip-select solder point: Bank 1 CS is left of the label for C4P10 Bank 2 CS is between the labels for C4R12 and C4R13 Bank 3 CS is left and above the label for C4P21 Bank 4 CS is between and above the labels C4R1 and C3R1 For banks 2 and 3, the chip-select wire can go through the hole to the left of the GPU. For bank 2, 90mm may be too short, so check the wire length and cut it as short as possible. I removed the GPU heatsink to access this hole. At this point, it should look something like this: Step 8: Reassemble and test in XBlast For a quick test, I don't bother with adding the fan, GPU heatsink, HDD, or DVD drive. The test in XBlast should look like what I first posted on reddit: If the Xbox reboots twice and FRAGs, check the bios selection (if you have one available). A normal BIOS will not accept between 1 and 3 extra RAM chips. If the Xbox reboots three of four times (and it's faster than a normal FRAG sequence) check for shorts. This happened to me. Step 9: Repeat for the other 3 chips The first one is the hardest. Step 10: Reflash with your favourite BIOS Some 1.6 BIOSs won't support 128MB. The X3 BIOS works just fine and it's the only one I tested so far. xblast_os_v0.60.bin

Hello, I have bought chips for this mod. I want to ask if after putting the chips 1 by 1 it is possible to test if it is soldered well or do they all have to be soldered?

I softmodded a series of XBox OGs in a marathon week but discovered an issue with model v1.6 and dualboot not working. All versions below seemed to work ok. Anyone else have this issue? Thanks

Hi, Having modded quite a few Xbox's 'back in the day' I've just come back to one of my old X3 custom front panel one's and am getting some slightly odd behaviour. It was oriiginally all flashed up on the standard 1234 banks and working fine. However, I'm now getting strange errors as sson as I try do boot with the chip on whether I boot normally or into the 256k backup. Although I do seem to be getting different error messages in each case. The bank lights on the front panel (specifically bank 1 &2) seem to be a bit intermittent but not sure if this is the cause of the problem, I've tried switching to the second 1mb bank also to no avail. Finally I'm running it from an HDMI converter at the moment as I'm waiting for a replacement original SD lead, not sure if this would make any difference. I'm a bit stuck as I can't seem to find any reference to the error I'm seeing. Been through all my own documentation and searched extensively online but no dice. Any help would be very very much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

When I start XBMC with LCD enabled settings previously, the LCD screen shows info but then it goes off within like seconds. I then have to go back into system settings and re-enable the LCD again for it to come on. Using Openxenium with spi2par2019 and HD44780 LCD. Once re-enabled it stays on until I turn the xbox off but the same thing happens when I turn it back on again. I'm launching XMBC manually from the dash as I not choose to launch it automatically yet.

Introduction: Designing the "Dual 80mm Fan Caddy" was a nightmare... It's been something I've been working on for a few years now. Tolerances were extremely tight, much of it had to be spot-on to fit correctly. The design has been split into separate pieces to better suit 3D printing. This reduces the chance of failures and helps produce quality prints. I was able to send a half dozen samples to volunteers for testing sometime ago. The results were far better than I had expected, I've still not had the chance to see for myself but I trust the feedback that was given to me.

I’ve been running into issues left and right after swapping from and OpenXenium with the HD+ to Nemesis Xenium. I finally got everything up and running fine and seemingly no issue at all with the swapping. Updated to the latest PrometheOS and HD+ firmware before the swap. I can play around in Prometheos as long as I want, doing FTP, flashing banks, etc. As soon as I load into Cerbios HD I get the normal XBMC login screen, but that’s as far as I can get. It freezes almost every time I attempt to sign in. Once I was able to login, but it froze when I clicked on apps. I’ve done a full reformat and reinstall of everything. Also have made sure I’m running the latest XBMC4Gamers. I was trying UDMA 6 and then tried UDMA 5 on a brand new 2TB HDD, with the same results. Anyone else ever run into something like this? This is happening on my precious Skeleton that I’ve slowly been trying to get done.

Hello, I have learnt a lot from these forums over time, and come here often, but this is my first time posting and i would be really greatful for your help as i cant find a solution on google or these forums. My xbox freezes / crashes on the screen after playing any game for about 10 minutes or so, the screen just completely freezes and sound just makes a constant buzzing sound until you power it off again, then if you turn it back on it will do the exact same again , be ok for 10 mins or so then freeze again. Xbox is a 1.1 with tsop flashed to latest cerbios, and 128mb ram with clock cap removed. So far i have tried, replacing the 5 caps near the cpu with alu polymer caps, cleaning the entire board with 99.9% ipa and leaving to dry, replacing the thermal paste, reflowing ram solder joints, 2 different power supplys, and 3 different hard drives some with file versions of games and some with cci image versions of the games and still same result each time when testing. Any help would be really appreciated from the experts that are on here as my head is well and truly baffled with it lol, i have never had an issue with the xbox till it just randomly did this recently. Thankyou in advance for any help or advice

So I have an executer 3ce chip that is missing the reset/eject adaptor. I have the cable that connects To the chip I just need to know which wires, that are connected to the eject/reset buttons on the Xbox, to splice into. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

I am trying to get one of my Xboxen ready for when Insignia drops, and I am having a wierd issue. If I put in a HDD built with OGXbox installer, it works. I can get all the way through to the create a gamertag screen. If I put a hdd that is a clean build, only MS dash files on it (5960), it fails just after "create an accont" screen. "something went wrong.." Same bios, same dash, only difference being one was hand built with fatxplorer. with just the dash files, the other with fatxplorer and "OGXBox Installer 2021 - v1.5.3 beta 2 For FatXplorer + XBoxHDM" files... The only modification I made to the ogxbox files, was adding the ini file for cerbios. Ideas?

I have a 1.4 with a flashed TSOP on Cerbios running XBMC4Gamers. First symptom I noticed was a half-second complete video and sound blackout every so often which wasn't too intrusive, but I had other boxes to play on, so never thought too much about it until now when I've started using this box again. I'm not getting the half-second drop-outs like before but what I am getting is really stuttery FMV playback. It's a bit weird in that it plays game preview videos OK, but once I start a game, any video sequence playback is all stuttery - like a record skipping every second or two. The gameplay itself is flawless. I swapped the HDD into another system and it played fine while the other system HDD had the same issue in the problem box. When I got this particular system it looked almost like brand new - and still does, and looking at all the caps, they look in pristine condition. Does choppy video playback point to anything in particular to anyone?

I have the Aladdins. I made the jtag cable with 3.3v output utilizing a USB blaster. I managed to get the drivers installed in windows 11. I have the XBlast Aladdin svf file. I have quartus. I have a tl866II. I have the SST flash adapter for the xgecu. I have 1mb flash chips. I should have the software installed for the SST flashing. I have everything. Just don't know how to use the software. Tried urjtag and it just gave me bullshit errors and I don't wanna fuck with it. What do I do? @sweetdarkdestiny @KaosEngineer @SS_Dave @ModzvilleUSA

Last week I purchased a nice OG to revisit a console that I'd had so much fun with 2 decades ago and to do some modding on. I set out to finally recreate one of those Friendtech/trusty/n64freak consoles that I'd wanted to do for a long time, but unfortunately never followed up with. This was made infinitely simpler after n64freak opened up sales of his bare interposer boards, so now the daunting amount of work for engineering these boards myself from the Friendtech patent file and datasheets can be skipped. I sourced the components for the clock switching circuit on the interposer, which totaled an astonishing €5 from Digikey, while I needed to spend €50 to qualify for free shipping. This quickly spiraled out of control, I ordered everything x10... There's another 10 CPUs coming my way and there's a 10-high stack of never-been-opened xboxes behind me already. While awaiting components to arrive, I've been reading about this upgrade and this left me the impression that these CPU-upgraded consoles at some point were highly sought after. I'd like to gauge current interest and am trying to get global idea of what these units should yield when sold. I was thinking of offering the following for €275: - Clean motherboard with CPU upgraded to a 1.4GHz/512kB cache Tualatin using n64freak's interposer - RAM upgraded to 128MB by installing the 4 additional chips - OpenXenium modchip installed (or only with a flashed BIOS for some discount) - no PSU, HDD, DVD, case since cost of shipping twice easily exceeds sourcing an xbox locally for most locations I still have to think about a proper reliable solution for the heatsink if these boards are to be shipped. Any thoughts?

Hi All I thought I’d share my custom prints and files used for the OG CPU upgrade. https://github.com/ACE-AU I’ve done a heap of upgrades as of late. You can see them on my YT channel. https://youtube.com/@aceconsolerepairs?si=RRgvNWeJkBL1a7it I usually stream them live and there is a couple of uploaded vids showing the process. I hope someone has some use for the files etc.

I have a console that a softmod was attempted on and for some reason failed. I happened to use the softmod installer included in the @sweetdarkdestiny TSOP tool. However, I have no reason to actually believe that there is any problem with it, since @Mittyoz had the same problem here: And used a different source for the softmod files. I feel that we may have used some odd, unlikely combination of files with the softmod installer or that there may be something up with our consoles in particular. Admittedly, Mitty did attempt to do a softmod and TSOP on top of each other, but his failure happened before he even TSOPd so I don't think it has anything to do with that. I am scratching my head and trying to figure out what this could be. Basically, The console boots and shows the animation. Once the dash is supposed to load, the console boots to a black screen. The Status LED is orange, there is no sound, no discs will boot and I am not entirely sure how to tell if an FTP server is running and to check if any dash is running that way. I have attempted to research the problem, but no threads or reddit posts end up with a solid solution. I think I saw a couple where people just gave up and hardmodded. lol. @Rocky5 If you would be willing to lend your experience and knowledge here, I would very, very much appreciate it. It will help me and others resolve this issue in the future!

The microscope is a total game changer. It's nice to be using brand new, unused RAM chips instead of having to question the chips I'm using. I think I'm confident enough now to perform this mod on all the boxes that now pass through my possession. Need to sell them though... Hopefully Facebook Marketplace can help me there!

Holy shit. This was quite the process and really tested my patients. First off I installed all 4 chips at once since I didn't think Xblast could be flashed to the tsop or that it wasn't a good idea. I know better for next time. Took me about 2 hours to get all the chips installed and I thought my soldering looked really good. No bridges, but all this xbox would do is frag. After fucking with it for about 4 hours I decided I had enough and put it away thinking the box was dead. This morning I decided to have another go at it, went back over my soldering and once again thought it looked really good but the damn machine still wouldn't boot. Now, I'm really frustrated. I take out the solder braid and start wicking off the solder in attempt to remove the chips. I notice that a couple of pins are slightly bent and might be touching other pads. I proceed to straighten them out, partially lifting a pad in the process. Once I get all of that done, I'm thinking there is no way this thing is going to start now. Well it surprised the shit out of me, it booted and all 4 ram chips passed. Maybe today is the day I should go buy a lottery ticket cause I feel pretty damn lucky this actually worked. If I do it again I'll be putting xblast on the tsop.

Hey Everyone, I am trying to patch to 480p but the game keeps booting up in 480i. I have an original copy of the game which I ripped to my OG Xbox and plays fine of the HDD. I have a 1.4 Halo TSOP running Evox with UnleashX, HD cables and video settings at 480p and 720p. I replaced the default.xbe with the below patch but is still booted up in 480i. (both hard drive files and burnt to a DVD) https://www.epforums.org/showthread.php?86942 I then tried the Hex edit as mentioned below on post #15 but it sill didn't work https://www.ign.com/boards/threads/darkwatch-doesnt-support-progressive-scan.96422065/ I'm not sure if there is something I am missing, any help would be really appreciated. Thank you

Thanks to @zzattack and his help I have been able to more successfully complete CPU Upgrades (2/2) with his technique so far! Will be getting some units up for sale as soon as I can figure out the proper cooling technique! The VCORE Voltage Modifications necessary for 1.45volts on a v1.6 xbox is as follows (using 0ohm resistors)

One down! 3 to go...

So I done a ram upgrade which resulted in a freeze, red/orange then frag (wasn’t able to test 1 by 1), removing all 4 chips didn’t fix the issue. Attempting it again with another board, first chip was a success with xblast, second chip was installed by the cpu, xblast then froze when checking that chip and now that console is fragging, again removing that one chip doesn’t fix the issue. Are the boards dead or is there things I can try?

I've been having this same issue with several SSDs on this v1.6 but not with any HDD I've tried. When I boot the Xbox, the Microsoft logo appears and then it black screens until I press the eject button, then it will load the dashboard. I can tell the dashboard isn't loading at all until eject is pressed since the front LEDs don't change color (they're set to orange). I've tested with 2 SSDs of different models (both from TeamGroup), 2 Startech adapters, and 2 UATA cables with the same results. The console boots fine with video when I start it up with just a stock dashboard on the C partition. Things I've tried to resolve this: - Starting with a stock dashboard on C, copying Rocky5's XBHDM installer on there, and softmodding that way (black screens on first boot without even installing the softmod) - Directly copying the C and E partitions from a working softmodded HDD - Using the Phoenix BIOS Loader and Cerbios - Switching video mode between normal, widescreen, letterbox - Disabling 480p/720p/1080i - Switching video region between PAL and NTSC - Using both component and composite cables - Using several different disc drives I'm running out of ideas, this issue seems pretty weird to me since the same files work on an HDD and the SSD loads a dashboard just fine after the eject/soft-reboot. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.

I've a Xbox v1.2 - 1.5. I know you can TSOP it, but I like the options a modchip brings. So, I soldered the LPC pinheader, a wire from D0 to ground (screwhole) and a wire on the Aladdin XT PLUS2 XT 4032 chip from the BT to the other pad. Now when turning on the Xbox it FRAGs. The led on the modchip is on. When I remove the modchip (I didn`t remove the LPC header or the D0 to ground wire, only the modchip from the header) the FRAGing exists. Before I soldered the modchip, the Xbox was working fine. Some photo's from my soldering job. I also tested from the top of the board the D0 point and my meter beeps on all the screwplates, so that looks fine. Also the LPC pinheader looks good. So I'm a bit frustrated because of this issue. https://imgur.com/a/3IRniGb Above the pinheader you'll see some flux residu, I've taken care of that after the photo's. Is there a way to double check the connections from the pins and the back of the board to somewhere on the board?

Got a modchip installed in a xbox 1.4 that can be turned off when short pressed power on. What’s the easiest way to upgrade to a 2tb that it can be locked so it still boots factory? Chimp or just use a slayers disc format the new drive then lock it. There is nothing on the original 8GB that I want or need. Do I need to back up the eeprom?

I am upgrading the hard drive I installed sometime between 03-05 when I first modded my original xbox with an Xecuter 2. I don't recall which version of the chip I purchased I have all the parts I've seen suggested to begin. My issue is that I have not upgraded BIOS so its sitting at 4983.something. My board is 1.4 What is the recommended method and BIOS to get this upgraded or even upgrade my whole setup so I can utilize the full hard drive?