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Hello Guys. I need some advice. I have a Xbox 1.4 with a windbond chip that I TSOPed a few years ago using a Hexen disk, I don't remember exactly the bios that was flashed, but when I turn on the xbox the evoX logo comes up, so I'm gonna guess my xbox has a m8 plus. The console works fine, but the fan is very noisy (it's a Sunon), so today I disassembled the xbox, replaced the thermal paste in both gpu and cpu (i've gained like 5 degrees), cleaned and oiled the fan and...it's still very very noisy and loud. So, I've been looking for a replacement fan, and found that people recommend the "Nexus 70mm Real Silent Case Fan". But, they also recommend to up the fan speed (to 40% I think) because by default, it won't cool the console as the stock fan does. To do that, ¿I should flash a new Bios right? the m8 plus using EVtools and selecting 40% fan speed? something like this: My DVD drive is dead, so I can't use Hexen, or the OGXBOX Installer, but I can FTP to the console. Any advice on flashing a windbond chip? Thank you so much for your time.

Hi, I'm trying to repair my xbox v1.6 with a Delta 220v PSU because it doesn't power on at all(even the fan isn't spinning). Backstory: the xbox stopped working all of a sudden(it worked just the day before even with the leaked/bulging caps), so thinking that maybe the power and eject buttons got broken, I tried to turn it on by shorting the SW1 Eject or SW2 Power(I can't remember which) to GND according to this diagram of the front panel connector. I don't think this was a good idea since the xbox didn't turn on and I heard a small spark but I'm not totally sure. Now from the PSU, not plugged into the motherboard(so in stand-by I guess), I get a ~5v reading from the orange wires but 0.1v from the blue wire(which should be 3.3v even on stand-by according to this table) and ~0 volts from the other 3.3v and 12v rail as it should be. Moving on to the motherboard, after removing all the bad capacitors, I still get a short between the 5v rail and ground(measuring the pins of psu connector on the motherboard). I also tried measuring the caps under the CPU(starting from C2P1 to C2P17) and they're all shorted to ground. The caps C2E2 and C1E1 too. Also, measuring the VRM(?) FAN5059M I'm getting a short on the pins(apart from GND) 2_SW, 6_VID2, 8_VID0, 20_VFP. All this leds me to believe that the CPU is fried but I can't really wrap my head around how I could have done that, is there something I'm missing/misunderstanding? Image 1 mobo Image 2 mobo Image 3 cpu caps

So I have a question....and it may sound dumb but ill explain and hopefully one of you wonderful lads and gents will have the answer I need.... I had two 1tb 3.5 hdds one got locked to a burned out mobo on a 1.2 xbox... 1.can I format that drive without the hdd key? 2.I don't want the data off of it just want to wipe it. 3.Its a WD Blue series hdd. Hopefully someone can relay some info on this... [Mods feel free to put this in the right forum topic as I wasn't sure where this should go]

Hi guys i heard we can extract xbox eeprom with esp8266. i searched the internet but could not find any reliable guide. i only found a youtube video where the guy is speaking in french so i don't understand him. can anyone please help. my xbox is revision 1.2 and i already have removed the clock capacitor. i also have attached the picture of the esp8266 board i have.

original xbox is 1080i or 1080p? because I've already tested photos in 1080p and used it as a screen saver until today, I've also tested 1080p video in .xmv format and opened it without crashing, apart from that when the 1080i resolution is activated it doesn't appear to be Interlaced and yes Progressive

Hello All, Recently started to collect OG Xbox games and consoles, and I've come across something interesting, to which no one seems to know the answer. I bought a couple of factory sealed copies of Madden 05 recently on eBay, and noticed something odd about one of the cases... the outer portion where you open the case has two brackets near the center (see images via the links below). Every other game I've picked up at local gaming shops, or online via eBay have not had this case design. The color of case looks spot on relative to the rest of my games, and everything else looks authentic, and the game is in new condition and plays perfectly. It even had the official seal and legit factory plastic around the case. Has anyone ever come across these case styles? Are they OEM? Worried that I got scammed a bit... though, the games weren't overly expensive to begin with. I've kept a couple sealed, but I can feel that none of the others have this bracket. https://ibb.co/6nTgcPR https://ibb.co/ydMVDWj https://ibb.co/9pwFyzg Any thoughts?

Bought of ebay with error 7 (faulty HDD). Installed Jafar modchip, connected unlocked HDD and locked to it, boots into xdash from previous install with soft mod. Soldered both points on board and even tested with multimeter which confirmed bridged, load up hexen and choose tstop winbond, loads Gentoox and selected HDD flash, soon I hit flash bios console turns off and reboot! Any idea to what's wrong here?

photo 01 photo 02 photo 03 photo 04 photo 05 provides more power and memory for: - removing slowdowns in emulators - hex patches for 720p output resolution - improved dashboard performance on 720p resolution - improved Linux performance 2TB HDD storage: - new unit installed Xerc2: - makes your Xbox turn ON and OFF from a remote (some TV remotes or Xbox DVD remote) - IR receiver was installed on the left bottom side of the front panel (requires some tweaks to work with your remote) OGX360: - lets you connect wireless Xbox 360 controllers to Xbox Original - installed internally (can be turned ON and OFF by clicking the button on left bottom side of the front panel) - 2 channels soldered and programmed (controller port 1 and 2) - OGX360 USB is located on the back of the console Others: - has 2 options, one for stock Xbox speed, and another one for 1067mhz this way you can play stock Xbox games without troubles and glitches, and also play Emulators in fullspeed - painted blue (automotive paint then clear coat) Listing contains: 1 x Xbox console (with 1ghz CPU, 128mb RAM, 2TB HDD, XERC2 and OGX360) 1 x Wireless Xbox 360 controller 1 x Wireless Xbox 360 receiver for PC 1 x Power Cord (USA or European depending on your location, same for Power Supply, if you are from USA it will be 110v, if from Europe - 220v) 1 x Xbox2HDMI

Hello guys, I've tried to search for that kind topic, but did not find any similar. As I recently got my og xbox (already modded), I am not very familiar with all the option of this mod. My main question is - Is it possible to change modded xbox dashboard skin to original green one (like from the factory)? But to keep all the modded xbox perks like 720p+ resolution, hdd saved games etc. Basically just change the look of dashboard, cuz i dont really like that modded look

Hey guys, Bought a second hand xbox that came hard modded with a sst 49lf020. Seems this xbox hasn't been used in a while as some of the apps are a couple of revisions behind. Should I wipe it clean and start again? Should I buy a different modchip? Attached an image below of the details from EvoX.

Hey, I have installed the chip successfully and flashed the M8plus16 bios to the 256k slot but my DVD drive is toast and wont read my setup dvd (I tried tweaking the pot in stages all the way down to 500 ohms but nothing). I have installed and formatted a new harddrive within Xblast but is there a way to install a dashboard without a dvd drive? Is there a Bios with a built in FTP server for example? Thanks!

I haven't really been able to find a ton of info on the communicator, I am curious about it though. It would be nice to have a way to hook up the Xbox to a modern gaming headset, through a combination of Toslink and an AUX jack maybe, ideally without having it plugged into the controller you're using. I'm assuming this is an analog/digital converter and that a simple AUX to USB adapter couldn't replace this thing.

Hey guys, my softmodded 1.6 box with a SATA adapter in it is taking a while to boot up and I'm wondering if the drive is on its way out. I'd like to be able to clone the drive to a SATA SSD I have lying around but every drive cloning tutorial I see out there involves hotswapping an IDE drive. How would I accomplish this?

Hi everyone, new to the forum but looks like it's the right place for me to visit. I have an Xbox 1.6b (2005, Australian 240V model). Tonight it wouldn't fire up at all, completely dead and unresponsive to the power button. I opened it up and there was no obvious damage on the mobo. All i could measure on the 20 pin molex from the psu were some very low voltage (0.6V) on the 5V pins. 12V was reading 0. Ac input fuses showed good continuity. The only thing that looks suspect on the psu is the component in R10. I measured across the pins for R10 and its reading open circuit. I reflowed the solder on the AC input pins, no change. The xbox has been moldded since purchase but has been working perfectly until tonight. Nothing has been changed in the last 15 years. Still in original case. The original power cable seems to be intermittent now but other cables tried and no change. Any suggestions to help diagnose would be appreciated as I couldn't t find any replacement psu online anymore. OG psu is Tuscany rev 1.0. Tyia, tssfka

I wouldn't consider this necessarily a mod as much as a repair but I wanted to talk about how when I was 14 and had absolutely no clue how anything on an xbox worked, I replaced the laser on my disc drive in an xbox that was completely stock (at the time). Now I don't know if I actually fixed the problem but it sure seems like it. At one point I stopped being able to load games from the drive, no games worked except for some reason the JSRF/SEGA GT 2002 game worked every time that originally came with the system. So at the time, all I could think was that the laser was bad and that the only option was to replace it. So I went to Ebay and searched for an original xbox laser and sure enough found one for I believe around $15USD. I swapped it into my drive and its been loading games perfectly fine since. Only I don't know if that affected its ability to read other disc types. In any case, I've read everywhere, for the most part, that people who have dead drives have no choice but to go buy another xbox that still has one working. So the conclusion I am coming to is, why have I not seen anyone mention buying a replacement laser? Did I just happen to find one or did it not occur to anyone that you could potentially just replace the laser? Was just one of my thoughts I've had for several years and just wanted to share and see what other people thought or know about replacing just the laser.

I installed and Open Xenium mod chip and the MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI mod in my old 1.6 Halo SE Xbox, along with a cheap SSD. I initially had everything running, & was able to boot into the EvoX dashboard as well as play games. Once I put all the case screws in & set it up, it booted normally once. After that boot, any other attempt was met with 3 failed boots followed by flashing red and green. I disconnected all the wires, reconnected them, and tried again. Again, 1 normal boot followed by endless FRAG results. Like in Greyleaf's thread, my Open Xenium chip doesn't light up at all with the FRAG boot attempts. I am a soldering novice, having only completed a Boxy Pixel GBA SP Unhinged build and GBC build. I did get some recommendations from a fried for better flux partway through the mod. I accidentally lifted a pad on the HD+ ribbon cable, but I ran a small wire to the trace farther up the cable . My first attempt to solder the cable had some issues. I completely removed & resoldered it. When the system boots, I do have functional video output. If I remove my Open Xenium chip from the pin connector, it boots into an error 16 page (I guess no surprise with a modified dashboard & unlocked drive). I replaced the clock capacitor and reflowed the solder for the Open Xenium. None of this has solved the issue. I also made a Reddit thread when I started troubleshooting. I think I've written the important details here, but it's there if I missed anything important. Summary: 1.6 Xbox Halo SE Delta DPSN-96DP PSU Open Xenium mod chip MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI port SSD upgrade I'm a novice Successfully boots once after reassembly (so far at least) Second boot attempt leads to 3 boot attempts then FRAG No lights on Open Xenium chip during failed boot process Normal lights on XboxHD+ during failed boot Disconnecting Open Xenium mod chip gives error 16 boot screen Looking for any troubleshooting help. Thanks.

Edited by moderator: Originally posted in similar thread "Xbox 1.1 dead no power". Moved @nerdbombing's post to a new topic thread. I'm having a similar issue with a 1.6 I took the box completely apart to put it into another shell. The box had worked before, no issues, fully softmodded with an upgraded HDD. I wast just trying to put it into a nicer shell as the one it was in had a cracked corner. After putting it into the new shell, nothing turns on. I thought it may have been the front switch or PSU but I replaced both with known good ones. It simply doesn't react to the power buttons, nothing comes on, no lights, and my visual inspection didn't find anything. What's a good place to start diagnosis from here? (Ebay#2)

Hello, my name is Carlos, I have an original xbox, I am connecting it by the eject button, because the power button is not working, when analyzing the tracks under the board I did not find corrosion, could someone please provide me with the scheme for measuring the points contact of the four tracks? so I can really check if they are broken.

Good afternoon all i have just upgrade the RAM to 128MB on my 1.2 Xbox and came across a YouTube video sega chihiro games can play on a upgrade Xbox anyone have a tutorial on how to do this?

Good night, I need help about the original Xbox Cromwell, my card is 1.6 and every time I start the Xromwell the screen is full of lines and the control stops working, I've tried changing the resolution to 480i and it still crashes I still don't know what it is. Could this be a BIOS issue?

Hello all, I have a spare XBox, chip and HDD selling as a mod "kit" I just don't have the time or need for it now... This is a 1.6 XBox in working condition. The case has 2 very small marks on it - pictures of all this can be provided based on interest. I have an LPC rebuild board, an XBlast Aladdin2 chip originally bought from Retrogamerstuff and a WD 500GB HDD that has been unlocked and was previously used in another modded console - it still has EMUS, APPS and ROMS and stuff already installed. I can include a composite cable too, but no power cord. The consoles seem to sell between £30 and £50 the chips at £16 and the drives around £15 although I'm sure I paid a bit more as I bought NOS, anyway that would be £61 - £71. Selling here for £55 not including postage within the UK. Fire a message or reply if you are interested or have any questions, I can provide pictures too. Cheers!

So my plan is to design an aftermarket original xbox case that keeps all the original components (mainboard with heatsinks, controller ports, dvd rom, psu, hdd, etc) with the possible exception of the rear fan and metal shielding. To achieve this I have been 3d modelling all of the internals to ensure everything fits. I have some ideas on the style I want to go for but have some questions. 1. Should I include a place to mount an lcd/oled? 2. Would you want to keep the xbox jewel? 3. Hdd/lan activity leds? 4. Any other requests Once I have some feedback the most popular features will be integrated. For now here are some of the 3d modelled components (to scale)

Hi, I have a problem with starting XBOX. When I press power, nothing happens, only a hissing sound and a "knock" emanating from the console, as if from the power supply, (something like the console board wanted to turn on but could not). No picture and no errors led on the console. Please advise what can cause this, I will add that the 1.4 board is in very good condition, there are no loose capacitors, the paths are intact and in very good condition. The power supply is checked and working. I changed the console TSOP, ver ind-bios 5003 and it worked for 2 weeks without any problems. Please help.

Long time Xbox owner... recently decided to get the Xbox out of storage... It was pretty mint when put away. Got it out and the Samsung drive seems to have stopped reading discs while it was packed away. How that happens I don't understand but .. I'm here as part of the rediscovering OG Xbox journey.