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Just in case you didn’t know this existed… works great and is functional on Insignia!! https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:EyeToy_Mod_Guide I reprogrammed my eeprom (on camera) so that I didn’t need to modify the chat app

I've bought a v1.1 128mb Xbox from ebay years ago with an LCD. However the seller for some reason removed the bottom metal RF shielding. I wonder if there is a way to fix the video without buying a donor xbox (due to high shipping costs). More on the condition of the xbox: - Tsop flashed with a modified Xecuter X3 bios and I am afraid to change it. - It is a PAL unit (not sure on what psu) - Wasn't serviced except for clock cap removal and changed the HDD to a startech CF card adapter. - Changed to 80wire ide

Hey all! I have a 1.0 that spools up to boot for about 2 seconds and then shuts down. Does that twice and then I can get it to stay powered with a FRAG 50/50 but never has any detectable video output. Not hard modded. I pulled the five Caps by the CPU and they all checked within limits. Clock cap is removed and there is not trace rot. Power supply works normal with other 1.0 boards. Any ideas? Thanks in advance

So I have a OEM component cable and a 3rd party. They both work but give me one same issue. The right audio channel wont work, so its just my left speaker. Its not my TV bc my PS2 and Wii component works flawlessly. I cleaned the av port with q tip and isopropyl 91. If I use my Chimeric HDMI adapter both speakers work but I think its still playing through the left audio channel only. Im tryna use component so I can avoid buying another hdmi splitter. My xbox is a 1.2 128mb ram openxenium running IND bios recapped not by me.

I've upgraded my old XBlast + XboxHDMI setup to Stellar XboxHD+ kit and after powering on the system I have no video output. There's a green LED in the XboxHD+ PCB but it's not lit. I've measured the 5V pad and I'm getting around 4.91V. I've also replaced the QSB with a newer revision and it's measuring around 130 Ohms. Stellar board have been updated to the latest firmware before installing and the link cable is connected. Anything I'm missing or should I RMA it?

Removing the delay from the window where the game video is running without it blinking when loading every time you make a move, or at least make the video appear before the slider goes down completely

I'm trying my hand at both soldering (never done it before) and hardmodding by installing an OpenXenium chip onto my 1.0 Xbox. As the title states, I'm getting nothing after my first attempt. My initial assumption was that I probably have a cold solder point on the LPC debug header, although the single wire could cause harm (I doubt that ones bad though.) I remembered, however, that due to it not being used, I left pin 15 filled, as I was struggling to get it opened. While I doubt it, could that be causing any issues? Here's a picture of the joints for easier assessment: Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Every game I've tried has repeated simultaneous audio/video dropouts, though the game doesn't freeze (controller rumble still happens at expected time, and game time has passed when audio/video returns). It seems to be more common when there's more activity in the game scene, though it happens at 'quiet' times too, even in the dashboard (Rocky5) with some video modes. It's a lot worse in PAL-60, but happens in PAL and NTSC, over component and through HDMI converter. I've tried various combinations of video modes set in Rocky5, enigmah or lpartx. Nothing working yet. I haven't done anything hardware-wise to this thing in the ~15 years I've had it, and have only recently installed Rocky5 - seems like a hardware issue?

On to my next project. This is the 1.4 board that came from the 1.6 Halo console. It's why I transplanted. This is the shell that the 1.6 was in. I can not get it to boot with video. It'll even flash green and orange without the AV cable plugged in, but when it's plugged in? Nothing. One time. I got video output ONE TIME for no apparent reason. Got the green blubber and everything. Couldn't believe it. Next boot, nothing. Just a green light. I found a lot of bugs in this case for some reason and they may have caused a short... I'm hoping it was just in storage... And that I didn't fry it when I tested it the first time... I didn't know there were like, 147 bugs inside, man... Any idea where to start? Or should I just give up now? I did verify that it's not a corroded AV port. @SS_Dave @KaosEngineer

Hi all, I've found an Original Xbox which is a v1.6. After connecting it, it doesn`t powering on, so I opened it up and did a check of all the capacitors. The clock cap was a bit leaking, so I removed it, cleaned everything, checked all the traces on the board with a magnifier and didn`t find an issues. At this moment I use a wire instead of the clock cap (I found some topics on this forum and reddit about that). So before ordering a new clock cap I want to have the console working. The console turns on now, but no audio or video. The light around the eject button is solid green. I've no clue how to fix this.

Hello everyone, I am reaching out to the community for some help. Long story I had a working HDMI mod with Open xenium on an Xbox. I wanted to try the ram upgrade. I had the Hynix ram stock, tried to replace them with Samsung, ram error and could not get that board to work again. I used a working spare board from my stock Xbox and just brought the open xenium and Makemhz HDMI over. I rebuilt the LPC using Amtech flux and my hakko soldering iron with my Kester ledded solder. I get great joints with these in combination and using an amscope for seeing what I'm doing. A mistake I think I made because it's been awhile, I removed the AV port and did both the LPC rebuild for the open xenium and HDMI board at the same time. Like I said it's been awhile and I may just need to patch the bios right? Problem is I am getting solid green on the chip and HDMI board (btw I used a new flex cable and use precision micro soldering pen to get those joins solid. I tested with a multimeter getting continuity and 33 ohms across each. No bridging or issues I can see under the scope with the ribbon cable, connector or the packages. I rebuilt the lpc again and still persists. One issue I should be honest and mention is the pin I took out for the lpc pins second one on the back left (was on some install guides to remove the pin). The hole pan was burnt off. Completely my mistake had the iron temp set way too high for another project. The trace going from that to a via on the front side of the board had been disconnected. That via goes to the back of the board but then it goes to the lpc where the pin is missing anyways. Basically I don't know if this is the issue. I am not getting a short that I can tell. Do I need to reflash my open xenium since it was working and setup on the old Xbox or is the issue that disconnected trace from the burnt out hole to the via, or is it something else potentially, can I test something with my multimeter? Do I just need to somehow patch the bios. Idk how now with the old av port missing. Audio works when I disconnect the open xenium but no video. I tried my testbench HDMI monitor. I tested my crt with an adapter that adjusts an HDMI signal to be adapted to composite. I tested on my TV upstairs and computer monitor with three good known working HDMI cables. I get no video when xenium is plugged in. I get no frag and can't see anything under the scope or infrared camera for chips going bad like the encoder. I've attached a short video showing the status of the lights. Any help is appreciated, thank you. https://youtu.be/Q00fV6C5C7c

Hi everyone, There are numerous posts throughout the interwebs with people reporting vertical lines showing in the boot animation and MS dashboard when running in 480i. The standard response when people bring up the issue seems to be be 'check your capacitors' and 'just force 480p'. I've seen some people report their caps are either fine, or they replaced them with no change, and I know that forcing 480p does fix the issue, but what I would like to understand is, are there systems using the Conexant encoder which don't suffer from this 480i issue, or is there anyone who had the issue who actually solved the issue by replacing caps and if so, which capacitors solved the issue? Thanks for any feedback. This just seems like one of those issues which have affected a number of people but that the community maybe doesn't understand the actual cause.

I have lots of og and 360 parts just DM if there is anything specific you need anything on my ebay if you DM me directly i will do at least 20% off and possibly more on top of that if you buy alot or i have had the item sitting for a while https://www.ebay.com/str/mcminer

I have an Xecuter 2.3 lite+ that I hard wired from years ago, but there is no video output. I have unplugged the DVD/HD and turned the chip off and dont get a video signal. There is a blue light on the mod chip that should be solid, but is flickering when I attempt to boot in this manner. I watched this video: and the dude put a heat gun on what appears to be the power supply capacitors and it worked. I tried something similar with mine and got it to boot one time with a solid blue light on the mod chip, but not since. I tested the power supply plug with a multimeter and all the voltages looked within spec/steady under no load. If the power supply caps are indeed the problem, should I just replace the power supply, since it appears that cap kits for it are the same price if not more expensive based on what I can google? Is there a better option to get it working again? Cheers

I don't know why video mode resets to original mode, in my case to PAL, when i successfully switch to NTSC. It resets after cold boot. With SID softmod this not happens. I hate NTSC washedout boot screen when using xbox without virtaul eeprom.

No output at all when connected via component, super dark red with scart.

https://youtu.be/5V48rYfqE6E This guide is a start to finish how to softmod a xbox (upgrade a softmodeded hdd too) and also how to TSOP flash any xbox (excluding mb v1.6) including flashing winbond & sharp tsop chips. All the files needed are included in the video description. I DIDNT MAKE ANY OF THE TOOLS FULL CREDITS GO TO THE DEVS, I just collected them all in one place.

Hi guys, I was previously using a set of third party component cables, but I was getting a lot of interference (faint wavy lines, etc). I made a set of component cables using an official Xbox av cable and an official Xbox 360 component cable, as detailed in the tutorial section of this site. The picture quality is now much better, however, I'm still getting distortions in the video - several glitchy horizontal lines, but always at the same locations. The same distortion was also there when using the third party cables (albeit with a lot of interference too), so I'm not sure if it's a problem with the cables or with the console. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had similar issues and knows what caused them. A video of the distortion is shown here: Cheers

When using/playing the MS dashboard, Halo CE, or JSRF, there's intermittent signal loss, or at least the behaviour of the TV is if the signal is lost (warning pops up). The audio will continue to work though (if plugged in through the reciever). I've got a video of this happening: Youtube video of signal loss. Setups I've tried: Xbox -> Chimeric -> Reciever -> TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Cheap component cable + cheap ADC with HDMI output -> Reciever -> TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> directly to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Cheap component cable + cheap ADC with HDMI output -> directly to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card -> Laptop (no issue) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Cheap projector (no issue) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card (Elgato HD60 S) -> Laptop (no issue) & passthrough to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card (Elgato HD60 S) -> Laptop (no issue) & passthrough to reciever and then TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Composite -> Cheap projector (no issue) Xbox details: PAL (Au) Rev 1.0 Delta DPSN-96AP-1 Aladdin XT with IND Unleash X Fully recapped PSU (didn't fix the issue) Replaced the large motherboard capacitors and a couple of the small ones next to the video DAC (didn't fix the issue) Unused Thompson DVD drive (un/plugged doesn't matter) WD 1TB Blue connected through an IDE-SATA (ofc) and 80 wire IDE cable. Molex -> SATA power is on the SATA-IDE card. Still had the same issue with the original WD HDD EEPROM set to NTSC Video output with 480p, and 720p enabled (480i seems to be issue free when using the Chimeric adaptor) Audio output with surround, DD, and DTS enabled No visible signs of trace rot, no signs of capcitors leaking, all removed capacitors looked to be in good condition and tested well. TV is a Sony KD-65X9000F (Au version of X90F) TV settings I've tried (in case auto detection is freaking out or something): Picture mode - Game Auto picture mode - Off Black adjust - Off Advanced contrast enhancer - Off Auto widescreen - Off Auto over/underscan - Off HDR - Off HDMI video range - Tried limited and full Colour space - Tried auto and sRGB "Motionflow" (not exactly, but effectively motion interpolation) - Off "Reality creation" (upscaling) - Off Smooth gradation - Off "Live colour" (Colour processing incl. fake HDR) - Off I've heard Deep Colour (introduced in HDMI 1.3) has caused issues in the past, but I can't find an option to turn it off anywhere, not even in the developer options. Reciever is Onkyo TX-SR494. Have tried multiple known good HDMI cables that can definitely carry 2.0 bandwidth. The Component -> HDMI DAC has an external power supply. This is it: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07JYHQRDJ I'm somewhat convinced that either the signal from the Xbox is borked, don't know if it's the PSU drooping, there's electrical noise, some thermal protection very briefly kicks in, or the motherboard capacitors I haven't replaced yet. I don't have an oscilloscope nor a way to monitor the HDMI signal to be able to further troubleshoot what exactly is going wrong. I'm after any more potential troubleshooting ideas, or knowledge.

Trying to rescue a 1.6 box. The unit booted to microsoft dash but dvd rom drive has failed, tried cleaning and pot adjustment, no luck. Next obvious option was installing a modchip.Installed an Aladdin XT plus I had working in another 1.6 as was already flashed. On boot I get the unit cycle on and off until the third attempt where it flashes Green and red really fast. I removed the lpc wiring and modchip, even pinheader, checked for damage, the header is perfect and the xbox boots normally. I have never had an issue like this before. Do I just keep trying to install again or am i missing something. Does the 3 boot attempts mean something? I am unsure to the sequence of events from pressing the power button. Any pointers, help would be appreciated. Just dont want to throw it out. Update, the green / red fragging is not modchip related and happens intermittently when running the box without a modchip. Progressively worse the more boot resets.

I'm looking for a video released by Team Xecuter sometime in the early 2000s made to promote the durability of their solderless adapter, the Xapt3r. The video shows a couple guys throwing an Xbox with an Xapt3r installed down a flight of stairs, followed by them immediately powering the console on to see that it still functions perfectly. I'm trying to track this video down for archival purposes, and I remember seeing it relatively recently although I was not able to find it again. Many thanks.

My v1.1 xbox has distortion in its video. It looks like 10 vertical rows of pixels all horizontally shift to the left by about 5 pixels. It's difficult to catch on camera but I've attached 2 photos. In one photo, you can see the pixel shift right in the middle of the letter D on the left hand side of the screen. In the other photo, you can see the same distortion right in between E and F on the left hand side of the screen. It doesn't look as dramatic in these photos as it really is. These vertical distortions appear all over the screen with about 5 or 6 happening at any given time. I replaced the five 1500uF capacitors in my xbox, and that did not help it. This distortion happens when I use the official HD component video adapter. It also happens when I use the Chimeric systems HDMI adapter. It seems like the distortion is not caused by external cables. I tried cleaning the video connector contacts with isopropyl alcohol. Does anyone know how I can fix this or further troubleshoot the issue?

I have a soft mod rocky5 XBMC-EMUSTATION. I have enabled an intro video but with the default media player set to DVD I get a black screen with good sound on the invisible video. with the default media player set to MPlayer I get a grey screen with choppy sound quality for the intro video. is there a certain specific aspect or file type for the intro.mp4? please help

Folks, thanks for letting me tap the vast knowledge here, yet again. I have 3 issues and hope to get at least one figured out, thanks for any help you can give. I didn't have much luck in the search, so I'm sorry if this is a repeat topic, but I'm sure KaosEngineer will prove me wrong yet again #1 Video playback lags in both XBMC and XBMC4XBOX on 2 different V1.6 softmod boxes. I've tried several formats, .avi, .mp4, .m4v, etc., they all open and play, but either have bad/scrambled video, slowed down playback but audio remains normal, and things just don't run like they should (or as I would expect). In XMBC4XBOX, for example, I've tried all the "video" settings I can see, such as pixel shredder, flicker filter, skip loop filter, etc. The same files work fine on my desktop and laptop, nothing wrong with the files I'm trying to watch. -Am I using a bad program, is there a better video player? I'm considering, naively, upgrading to a SSD.... #2 Is there a plain, straight forward tut for video output upgrade, like switching to HDMI or improving from the 480 (or whatever the standard video output is) with a softmod? #3 Far less pressing, on a recent softmod of a v1.6, I get an MS error 07 when I use the restart/reboot action from the dashboard and other apps that offer a restart. It only happens on restarts, I can turn the unit off then on, and NOT get the error, so as of now it's just a minor inconvenience, but makes me wonder why it occurs. New 80pin IDE cable, used in both directions (blue end on mobo and black on hhd, as well as the reverse) and sure to plug them in tightly and completely. Using a 1tb seagate that is listed on the compatibility chart as working. here's the sata-ide adapter I'm using https://www.ebay.com/itm/154372204735 Thanks for the help!