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Found 13 results

  1. Hi Again, just wanted to share a link to a custom IDE cable. this is an ultra-ide cable made to the length and connector spacing of the original cable. no more awkward twisting/folding, and the blue connector actually goes in the motherboard this time. There are bulk packs available also. As always, international buyers, beware that shopify can generate some crazy freight prices. Sometimes it IS just that expensive to ship from the US, but often there are 3rd party shipping alternatives and i'm happy to help you sort those out directly. I'm in the process of trying to integrate a 3rd party shipping service to the site to help make it easier all around. https://gameroomcustoms.com/products/custom-80-conductor-ide-cable
  2. Has anyone run across a decent aftermarket power cable? All of the cables I’ve seen in the last few years have seemed like they use way too small a gauge of wire, don’t seem to have nearly enough insulation on them, and generally feel extremely flimsy. Just curious if anyone has found one that doesn’t seem like it might split in half or burst in to flames. Lol. Also if you have used any of the aforementioned how did they perform long term?
  3. I'd like to make some 80 wire IDE cables for the Xbox, 80 conductor 30 AWG ribbon cable is no issue but when it comes to IDC/IDE/PATA connectors there are a lot of different names and specs, I'm quite sure which ones I have to account for. I've been told that normal keyed 40-pin IDC connectors will not do the job, so what type of connector is needed? Also, if you've made these cables before, where did you source the connectors from?
  4. Hi Everyone, i'm currently offering these replacement cables in an effort to bring back to life as many original xbox Microsoft branded controllers as possible! This cable includes a 5 pin connector so it has all of the data lines that the xbox cable uses. It's a simple replacement, just de-solder the existent pin connector, and put this in it's place. This is a full length cord, includes the breakaway, ferrite cores, strain relief etc. It can also be used as a replacement on most (maybe all) of the cheap aftermarket controllers if you want to be able to use sit further from your monitor/TV. The new connector inserts vertically, the old one lays on it's side, this has no effect on the shell. There is one other difference i will point out for complete transparency. The original xbox controller uses 5 data lines, and has 1 chunky stranded line of shielding that is soldered as a 6th pin. These do not have that 6th pin. For comparison, the cheap aftermarket controllers use 4 pins in their wiring (missing the yellow wire), have no breakaway cable, and are only 5-6 feet in length. These ship from the US, and currently listed at $5.99 per cable. I do have a shopify store for easy payment options, but will not link that here until i have permission to do so. If you are interested, please drop a comment and feel free to PM me. Bulk rates are an option, just have to figure out the best method of shipping whatever qty it is you may be interested in.
  5. Hey everybody. After a dozen years and 450-500 systems, I need to make a lot of space and I'm making my exit. Tested and itemized to the best of my ability, here's what's left after the past few months of purging. I'm located in the western burbs of Philly and would prefer not to ship, obviously, but buyer pays shipping/packaging if so. Everything is 100% negotiable. Everything is AS IS. The complete consoles are mostly Frankensteined, because like many of you I would buy dozens at a time sight unseen from the usual places, some arriving partially modded. Will also be posting on the FB group, where I've posted and lurked for years. Xbox ("complete") -2001-11-13 ($40) TSOP, runs hot, boots unlocked drives but behaves erratically, DVD board is dead -2002-09-18 ($25) TSOP, clock cap removed, no video output, DVD drive *may* work -2002-08-28 (v1.0) ($20) For parts, no video output, no PSU, DVD board is dead -2002-12-23 ($65) softmodded, clock cap removed, winbond, working Samsung DVD drive, needs recap near CPU Xbox (incomplete) -2001-12-11 ($20) 1.0 w HDD, Bottom shell/cage, no PSU, no top shell, no DVD -1.6 ($10) board + HDD, w/ Delta PSU ONLY Peripherals remotes, tons of IR receivers (2) OEM AV cables (4) 3rd party AV cables NEW (2) 3rs party power cables NEW Controllers (FULLY TESTED WORKING) (5) Duke ($21/ea) (3) S - black .. one needs L3 top, will ship w new thumbsticks (19/ea) (3) S - blue ($23/ea) (2) S - green ($23/ea) (1)third party long breakway green cable (1)third party short breakway green cable Nuby arcade stick ($35) Controllers (WITH ISSUES – no breakaway included) $7/ea (1) Duke – L3/R3 wonky/broken (1) S - black – iffy cordset (1) S - black – stuck L (1) S - black – White/Black stuck (1) S - black – Back & Start stiff (1) GameStop – dead Y button (1) Pelican – blue, bad R3 Controllers (FP and "Dead" – no breakaway included) $5/ea (4) S - black ..(1) board and shelll only (1) eclipse S, black FP/As-Is wireless ($6/ea) (2) green digital labs + receiver Orange madcats + receiver Eclipse/Pelican PL2006 receiver MISC PARTS Drives Samsung - dead board HL - no board, no tray Thompson - complete, functioning??? PSU (1)Delta PSU, As-Is Misc (3) HDD caddies (1)DVD caddy (9)DVD shielding pieces (1)PSU shield Dozens of rubber feet (3) OEM ribbon cables (2)OEM fans OEM HDDs, locked as teamassembly (2) ST310211A (1)ST310014ACE
  6. I have some 4 port OGX360s with micro USB cables and Xbox adapters, no case as I do not have a 3D printer. $125 shipped to the USA International shipping may be more depending on where you are. I have blue and black PCBs so let me know what you'd prefer.
  7. @miggawhatStarted a thread back in 2019, with issues about ethernet port not working right. I have an ethernet problem as well, but different. This is new to me, never had any network problems of this type before. I bought an ebay "as-is" untested box, luckily it booted up, cd worked, and after 20 years of life, the clock capacitor was in "like new" shape (no leakage or anything, but of course, I still removed it). It had never been opened before, and oddly there was a HDD screw floating around the HDD tray that had come loose, just as an anecdote. Anyway, I took the G & CPUs's heat-sinks out to re-thermal compound them. I plan on making this my first TSOP, getting my feet wetter, so to speak. After softmodding in my normal fashion, I attempted to FTP over the C, eeprom, and MS backups to my master backup storage drive. Unfortunately, I wasn't getting an IP showing up in the dash, even and after confirming I had all the network settings correct: FTP enabled Set to static 192.168.0.2 port 21 4 users allowed User and pw both : xbox Known good x over cable, and double checked on another box (as I describe below) I was able to copy the C and eeprom's to USB/mem card and transfer to a working 1.6 softmod. I then FTP'd, from the working 1.6, the contents of the memory card. So I can technically upgrade the HDD externally, and add the games and emulators I want. However, I'm more into system link stuff, and a non functioning ethernet port/network stuff isn't desirable. On the rear of the box, I get NO lights whatsoever. I gave it a little wiggle and jiggle, but nothing would light up and no IP address would show up on the dash. I checked and cleaned the port with swabs/qtips and iso, the swabs came out basically clean. All the pins/tabs looked to have good contact surfaces, none bent or missing, etc. I'm considering getting a solder pump finally, and trying to swap out the physical port for another one, but swapping ports depends on what advice you fine folks might provide, which I thank you for greatly!! Anyone else have an issue like this? V1.0, Unleash X (Ebay #3)
  8. Are you looking for a digital optical cable? Here you will find everything you need. SF Cable's best-selling Digital Optical Cables are listed here. You can find a wide range of digital audio/video cables at discounted prices here. Order Online!
  9. Can i make component cables for the 360 out of them? Or will only 360 component cables work?
  10. Hopefully this will be an easy solution.. I'm trying to find extended cables for the insides of a 1.6: - DVD Drive Power cables - Gameport cable extention - PSU power into the mobo Ideally I wanna try find some premade cables/adapters.. but If it has to be a DIY jobby then tips would be much appreciated!
  11. i'm using the official xbox HD adapter and high quality component cables but i always get interference. anybody know why and a way to fix it?
  12. $25 Custom DIY Component Cables for OGXbox made from an official Xbox360 set of cables. I do not grantee my work. This was a personal use set and I figured I'd pass them on to the community. *NOTE* Composite is NOT connected. There is only YPbPr and L/R audio
  13. As the title says, I have an Xbox with an incredibly annoying buzz/hum problem. The buzz comes from the speakers of the TV, not the Xbox itself. And only occurs when using the component cables. When using composite cables, the audio is perfectly fine. Haven't tried SCART as I do not have the cable. I'm pretty sure this issue wasn't an issue just a few months ago. I've tried using different power cables, different power sockets (in case of grounding issue)... I think SOMETIMES it depends on what game is being played whether the buzz appears. My Xbox is softmodded, with the only physical mod being a new SATA HDD using an HDD to SATA adapter. Is this a possible cause? The only other thing I can see are three capacitors that LOOK like they are bulging, but no leaking yet. The three caps in question are right below the CPU heatsink, labelled C3E2, C2E5 and C1E1.. I've attached a photo to show the caps. The photo isn't mine, I found it on Google images but it's identical to mine., Are these caps related to audio, or are they related to something else like power? So the question is... does anyone out there have any ideas as to the cause of a buzzing noise with component cables that probably wasn't there a few months ago?

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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