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Hello everyone and thanks in advance for your help. As you can see from the pic here: https://imgur.com/a/Vvnf6uX I removed today the clock cap and I found some corrosion. I cleaned very carefully (probably more clean will need) with a soft brush and isopropil alcool. I have noticed that corrosion affect some SMD component that now are gone, so I navigate the web looking for pictures to find the missing component so I can but and resolder them. Please help me with the values of the following components from bottom to top: R7G2 = 3K ohm R7G1 = 1.1 K ohm Q7G2= 1AM R7G3 = 285 Ohm CR7G1= A11 R7F9 = 2K ohm R7F8 = 256 Ohm R6F7 = can't find any value on the net Can you help me with those values? Also, any tip to double check? thanks

I'm messing around with my own Xbox OG and have a modchip with Cerbios in it. I also changed the default hard drive with a SATA 160GB version and an IDE2SATA adapter with 80 wires 40 pins IDE cable. The boot is slow and yes I know the cheap IDE2SATA adapters can be annoying. But I used the exact same adapter in other Xboxes and they work fine. So, I did some testing. With the DVD drive attached (in the cerbios.ini it is defined as DriveSetup = 1 (which is HDD & No DVD (Legacy Mode)) the boot time is 42 seconds. When I detach the DVD drive, the boot time is aprox 20 to 21 seconds before the full EvolutionX dash is loaded. I tried several DVD drives (the one original in this Xbox is a Thompson, but I also tried Philips, Samsung) and the load time is with the DVD drive attached always 42 seconds and without at max 21 seconds. I also tried another 80 wires 40 pins IDE cable a had laying around, but same issue. Because I sometimes use the DVD drive I can`t eliminate it, so I'm out of ideas. If the adapter was also slow without the DVD, I would suspect that to be the problem, but in this case the performance without the DVD is fine (I also tested the adapter in a PC and it has good throughput). So if anyone has an idea to check and improve the time with the DVD attached it would be nice.

FYI: https://x.com/modzvilleusa/status/1712345234364080547?s=46&t=9Ks-lWRGXCwsmOy16I0-HQ please do not make this a slander/argument/etc post. This is just news that will make a few of you happy @Bowlsnapper

Nothing special. Just a fun way to spend an hour.

Is there another place I can find ports of games to put on my xbox? I've gone through here: http://www.emuxtras.net/dlsystem/ Just looking for another great site that may have some other stuff to find. Thanks!

Hey I'm was trying to setup Insignia and was getting some network issues and thought it may be the bios or settings in the X3 config live so I took a look at the time and date settings and the year was 2004, so i set the current date and time, rebooted the Xbox and loaded back into config live and it displayed a message "Fixed Datesettings", I then went back to the time and date settings and sure enough it switched back to 2004. Can anyone tell me why this is happening? My Xbox is a v1.0, X3CE modchip running x3 bios version 3294 force progressive scan on banks 1-4 and then banks 5-8 have the standard x3 3294 bios. I have removed the clock cap. Any help would be appreciated.

Limited Edition Japanese “Skeleton” Xbox for sale! This is my whole collection I’ve been working on for 5 years. I have lost interest in it and it just sits around unused. I’d like it to go to someone who would actually enjoy it! Everything is tested and working except for the wireless controllers. I recently picked those up and have not tested them. It’s possible they work just fine. Minor cosmetic scuffs on everything but does not effect functionality. A cracks on the Xbox itself, mostly around where the case screws go. One of the corners does have damage. See pics. Asking for $650 or best offer shipped in the US. PayPal only. Let me know if you have any questions! What’s included: - Limited Edition Japanese “Skeleton” Xbox - 4 special edition controllers - 3 wireless controllers (untested) - Pound HDMI adapter - Madcatz HD component/composite cable - 3 controller extension cables - 1 controller port to usb female adapter - power cable Mods: - TSOP flashed 1.4v motherboard w/ EvoX bios - 128mb ram upgrade - Startech IDE to Sata adapter - 80 wire IDE cable - 1TB SSD drive - Insignia Live setup (account/gamertag will be included) - DVD drive delete - XBMC-Emustation Dashboard - RGB lights

Is this even something you can do? Or would I waste my time trying? I have two xboxes waiting to softmod>tsop, the disc drives in both are fugged so I can't use my mechassault disc. I'm wondering if the softmod can be performed from a digital copy of the game on the hard drive + hard drive copy of the exploit game save, all while running on a modchip.

I wanted more of a subtle lighting mod for this halo console. I used the extra fan header to power 3 LEDs. Left side was easy to see. I also placed one in the middle to have a subtle glow from the front. The right side was tricky, because of the downward facing CPU air baffle on the underside of the HDD tray. So I put the LED on the very edge of the motherboard and pointed diagonally up and at the underside of the newly chromed HDD tray. Had to point it at an angle under that smaller opening in the bottom of the vane. That gave me the light output I wanted out the vent and the front bottom of the case is now (more) symmetrically lit. I am hesitant to show the wiring because I'm not too proud of it. As long as the light I want is there, who cares? And yes, I know there's overspray. Good thing nobody will ever see it. Lol. My controller port LED mods are getting much better and neater.

Hello, I have one or two questions regarding the D0 point. With an xbox with version 1.6 the whole thing is called lframe (what does this abbreviation mean?) and it has been confirmed by various people that there are several mAh tiles and if you simply short-circuit this line with ground "could" damage the mcpx chip. Therefore the lframe cut is recommended. So far everything is known and at least for 1.6 I do it that way. Now to my question. What about D0 ... what does D0 even mean and where does it come from, also from mcpx? Tiles there also several mAh? I don't know about you, but I always have a bit of a stomach ache when a conductor track is to be short-circuited for which it was not actually intended. Hope you understand my english. Greetings

I want to change the hdd of my xbox with an ssd, because the optical drive is not working, but I know that I need the EEPROM to trick the xbox into thinking that the ssd is its original drive, but I dont really know how to do it without installing a custom firmware on the hdd and then be able to use an FTP to get it (the stock firmware doesn't allow the xbox to connect to a pc via ethernet). Then the only other way to do that is "hotswapping" but it requires an old computer with IDE connections but it's a bit difficult to find one. so if there is another way of doing this,let me know to try it Thank you in advance

Hello! I've found a lot of good info and clever people on this board, so I'm hoping someone can help me out. It started with my old v1.1 Xbox and I screwed up the flash on the Xecuter 2.3b Lite and had no way to recover, so I bought an OpenXenium. I installed the pin header and mod chip and it worked great, for about a minute or two. Then the Xbox crashed. When I powered it back on, it FRAG'd. Disconnecting the mod chip didn't boot back into the stock BIOS either. I found a guy selling a mint v1.1 Xbox nearby for cheap so I bought it. I yanked the clock cap, installed the mod chip, and it booted up and worked great...for about a minute. It crashed and FRAG'd on reboot. Disconnecting D0 and removing the chip wouldn't boot the stock BIOS. Sounds familiar... After leaving the Xbox to sit for a few days while I ordered a magnifying lamp and some nicer wire, I soldered on a new D0 connection and just put the chip in with nothing else (no video even) and switched it on. Green light! Great! Installed the DVD drive and SSD and then...FRAG. I'm pretty confused now. I followed this guide to check the contact points on the board and I traced their resistance, all are less than 0.1 ohms (except the grounding pins...I don't know why those are mapped to vias?). https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2021_01/68206083_xboxLPC.thumb.png.331244095aee4bc57088b5b4ce2ec6c7.png With the system powered on, I checked the voltage and all looks good except the Pin 5 RST voltage is sometimes really low. That seems significant. I have another Xbox on the way but at this point I'm starting to think the mod chip is broken and murdering Xboxes. Since they won't boot even with the chip disconnected, that makes me think the chips borked the EEPROM or caused some electrical damage. I also find it weird that after letting the Xbox sit for a couple days and really not doing much, it worked once and then not again. I'm wondering if there's some kind of breaker being tripped and that resets? I know the Nintendo 64 has something like that if you had inserted the memory expansion pack backwards, you'd have to wait an hour or something. I've visually scanned the motherboard looking for bad traces, solder splash, anything looking out of the ordinary and it all looks fine. I'm at a loss at this point. What else can I check? What am I missing? Big thanks for any help anyone can provide

I’ve done a little digging lately and it seems there are quite a few options these days for wireless support of more modern controllers. I’m looking to avoid a ton of cables going everywhere for 4 controller support. The Brook Wingman XB2 is a nice option, but requires 4 of them, similar to the OGX360 module needing all four controller ports to be physically connected when in use. This obviously causes a mess of cables and gets quite pricey. Looking for some information about any newer/lesser known options. I’m all for making this myself and hopefully internalizing it. I just can’t stress enough that the amount of loose cables is a huge turnoff for me.

The .xbe file format seems to be reverse engineered, but as far as actually compiling them goes, you still need to use Microsoft's official tools from 2003? Which also means not being able to use modern C/C++ features...? I'm having a hard time believing this. Are my Googling skills just bad, or has nobody bothered to fork gcc or clang or modern?

Hello, yesterday I was using XBPartitioner 1.3 to edit the partitions, but the tool was on the HDD and I wasn't using the HeXEn Engineering Disc. After i rebooted the Xbox it gave me error 16. I tried burning the files for the HeXEn disc but it wouldn't boot into anything and just kept giving me the same error. Earlier today I tried to connect the HDD to my PC and it gave me a password screen for the drive. I tried both passwords from the hddinfo.txt I have from my backup of the drive but it didn't work and said "HDD is locked." What should I do now?

Every game I've tried has repeated simultaneous audio/video dropouts, though the game doesn't freeze (controller rumble still happens at expected time, and game time has passed when audio/video returns). It seems to be more common when there's more activity in the game scene, though it happens at 'quiet' times too, even in the dashboard (Rocky5) with some video modes. It's a lot worse in PAL-60, but happens in PAL and NTSC, over component and through HDMI converter. I've tried various combinations of video modes set in Rocky5, enigmah or lpartx. Nothing working yet. I haven't done anything hardware-wise to this thing in the ~15 years I've had it, and have only recently installed Rocky5 - seems like a hardware issue?

I just need to know how to wire these LEDs up and what the resistor values are. I can't find any place that is either still up or still hosting photos.

I just had tsop'ed my xbox and Clean the C from Softmod after Tsop, so i want to install Unleashx, when i installed and open it the screen goes black, but others dash evox, avadash etc works fine?? My xbox is tsop'ed but i still have softmod savegames and unleashx savegame is they who broken unleashx?

After i Tsop my xbox with Evox M8 plus the dash won't boot and i was know about this then i tried to install unlashx dash from hexen 2021 disc then i installed in E/Dash and then i got message says: do you want to make it your default dash, i click in Yes, after that the boot animation frozen with microsoft and when i tried to boot hexen nothing happend :(

I booted up my XBMC and noticed that it wasn't loading as fast. The menu takes forever to load and when I finally reach the menu it just shows a blue screen with loading. I can't login and I get a script error. Below is my log file. Please help me find a solution. I'm quite a noob and hope the fix is easy. Log file xbmc.log

Hello, Some help would be really appreciated. I really don't understand why it occurs. But it's the second PAL OG XBOX 1.6 that "dies" after doing the modchip : Open Xenium with LPC Rebuild. I have successfully followed this tutorial (and the solder joints look good): - 1st one working fine during a week after Xenium mod chip LPC Rebuild + Version 2.3.5 Make MHZ then sudden black screen and after Flashing Red and Light - 2nd one working fine after Xenium mod chip LPC Rebuild + Version 2.3.5 Make MHZ: Then died after one hour same symptom Flashing Red and Green. Is there a way to fix this Red and Green issue? Tried different power supplies did not make a change. Seems to be an issue for the motherboard?

Hello everyone, I am reaching out to the community for some help. Long story I had a working HDMI mod with Open xenium on an Xbox. I wanted to try the ram upgrade. I had the Hynix ram stock, tried to replace them with Samsung, ram error and could not get that board to work again. I used a working spare board from my stock Xbox and just brought the open xenium and Makemhz HDMI over. I rebuilt the LPC using Amtech flux and my hakko soldering iron with my Kester ledded solder. I get great joints with these in combination and using an amscope for seeing what I'm doing. A mistake I think I made because it's been awhile, I removed the AV port and did both the LPC rebuild for the open xenium and HDMI board at the same time. Like I said it's been awhile and I may just need to patch the bios right? Problem is I am getting solid green on the chip and HDMI board (btw I used a new flex cable and use precision micro soldering pen to get those joins solid. I tested with a multimeter getting continuity and 33 ohms across each. No bridging or issues I can see under the scope with the ribbon cable, connector or the packages. I rebuilt the lpc again and still persists. One issue I should be honest and mention is the pin I took out for the lpc pins second one on the back left (was on some install guides to remove the pin). The hole pan was burnt off. Completely my mistake had the iron temp set way too high for another project. The trace going from that to a via on the front side of the board had been disconnected. That via goes to the back of the board but then it goes to the lpc where the pin is missing anyways. Basically I don't know if this is the issue. I am not getting a short that I can tell. Do I need to reflash my open xenium since it was working and setup on the old Xbox or is the issue that disconnected trace from the burnt out hole to the via, or is it something else potentially, can I test something with my multimeter? Do I just need to somehow patch the bios. Idk how now with the old av port missing. Audio works when I disconnect the open xenium but no video. I tried my testbench HDMI monitor. I tested my crt with an adapter that adjusts an HDMI signal to be adapted to composite. I tested on my TV upstairs and computer monitor with three good known working HDMI cables. I get no video when xenium is plugged in. I get no frag and can't see anything under the scope or infrared camera for chips going bad like the encoder. I've attached a short video showing the status of the lights. Any help is appreciated, thank you. https://youtu.be/Q00fV6C5C7c

Hello! I hardmodded my V1.1 and got a 2tb hdd all partitioned and loaded with my backups for when my disc drive inevitably fails. The problem I have now is that when i open the games tab in UnleashX off Cerbios, games just says empty? I had it working just fine with a handful of games but when I backed up my full library this started occuring. I have tried repartitioning the drive with FATXplorer and it displays the drives and free space but won't actually display the games, any ideas?

I am running both from the ‘app’, and the script option and I select yes, then no to preview videos, and no to skip artwork that already exists and then it just starts on emulators and 36% pleas halp me internet!!!

Hi to everyone! Registered here after often been reading various topics. Ive tried to transfer savegames for Halo 1 and 2 from one console to another, via memory card/flashcard. Although on secondary console in Local GameSaves data is visible with icon, when I copied it to memcard it was blank file with profile name only, 2 of them for 2 games. I've chose copy in File Manager and of course it automatically offered me destination. I couldn't choose free area, selection was only on Back arrow, so I've pasted it like that from memcard on my primary console, UDATA. (Idiot, I know.) So that means I copied it from Local GameSaves on one console, and pasted it to UDATA on another. Now on my main console Local GameSaves menu has Halo 2 icon on it, and almost every previously blank savegame has Halo 1 icon, I think. Also, strangely size have gone to 0 Bts for every single save, that has that data visible (because some don't, some have names, some are without names). I can't find where the files go. Searched through all folders on UDATA, there are no files with corresponding date. I did delete these files from UDATA root, that have today's date, no avail (backed them up on computer). So here's how it looks: Do you know how to solve this?