helltoast

yes, but it has to be in hex, so 747474... tried upper case too (545454...)

that's what I was looking for, thanks! but unfortunately it didn't work. I type hdtool2 -m -p 7474747474747474747474747474747474747474747474747474747474747474 -o UNLOCK -d /dev/hdb and it returns "no drq after issuing multiwrite_ext" I'm assuming that means the password is incorrect? I triple checked and it's 32 lower case t's... EDIT nevermind, that's just the error you get after too many failed attempts. I power cycled the console and was able to try again. thing is, it still doesn't work. I get the message unlock hard drive with password 747474... and nothing happens.

it is an IDE drive but I don't have a board with an IDE interface unfortunately... which is why I wanted to do it through the xbox. would an adapter work?

ha, no problem. I'm fairly certain it's a SP0842N

it's a Samsung drive.

you know of any programs on the xbox that lets you input a custom master password? chimp261812 doesn't, unless you edit the source and rebuild it. or do I have to get an adapter for my PC?

it wasn't configmagic I don't think. like I said, if memory serves, it immediately locked up once I rebooted, back in the day. drive is locked, high security. so the master password should work, right?

thanks, dave. yeah, xbox is what drove me to learn how to solder. this was ages ago though, and the drive is 500 gigs so I wanted to save it. it's locked with the old password, not the nulled one. if memory serves, it stopped working then the moment I rebooted. because it wasn't unlocked, or locked with 0s. problem is that I can't enter a specific master passwords in chimp. it's not XBOXSCENE nor TEAMASSEMBLY, it must be 32 letter Ts (Samsung drive). but I don't know of any programs for the xbox that allow you to input your own master password. I don't care about the contents but I wanted to do this from the xbox, so I don't have to get an adapter. or several, until one works. but it's looking like I don't have a choice.

it's locked with the old password, before I nulled it. is there any app I can use to input a custom master password? as opposed to chimp only letting me use the default XBOXSCENE/TEAMASSEMBLY.

long story short, ages ago I softmodded a 1.1 machine and naturally locked the drive after upgrading it. shortly after I tsoped it though, and zeroed and password- without backing the original or unlocking the drive. I tried chimp261812 and neither master password (XBOXSCENE and TEAMASSEMBLY) worked. the master password *should* be a string of 32 T (it's a samsung drive) but chimp won't let me input a different master password. there's the hddkey.txt option but it only accepts 16 bytes of hexadecimal characters, unless I'm missing something it's not related to the master password. there's also the linux terminal but I'm not sure what I'm doing here. any ideas?

yes, ADM1032 was the problem. thanks a lot for your help!

don't have the equipment to test it that extensively unfortunately. I'll just try replacing the ADM1032, but assuming that's not it, what else could it be? maybe the caps are blown? don't think the PIC could be causing this, everything else seems to work fine.

unleashx and evolutionx. temps read 0C on hexen and rocky's as well. definitely a 1.1/not a 1.6, I just TSOP'd it. been googling this and came across another post of yours. someone else had this problem and you suggested they cleaned the C6F2 and C6F3 caps, and checked for a broken trace between pin 7 on the ADM1032 and pin 15 on the PIC. I cleaned both caps thoroughly (and reflowed C6F3 since it was closer to the leak) and checked for continuity between the pins. found no problems... maybe the ic or the caps are dead?

just got another xbox and after softmodding and TSOPing it, both temperatures show 0.00C. any idea why? it's a 1.1. clock cap leaked but the acid did not reach the ADM1032 chip. there's a lot of rust in the cage though, and a nasty dent on the board near the power suply.

samsung* it's the other way around but yeah, I guess that's what I'm going to do. it's just weird, I was more interested in troubleshooting in case something was wrong with my 1.1 board. but I guess the adapter is the problem. isn't startech supposed to be better than the generic ones? it's faster though, and I'm mainly playing off the hdd, so it's not like I'm going to switch. maybe it's defective? thanks for your help by the way.