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That part really sucks. I've recently been cataloging and digitally archiving all my old family photos (going back to the 60's). There's thousands. And digitizing VHS tapes. I couldn't imagine losing all that stuff. Sorry for your loss of this stuff. I'm sure there's other folks, but the 1st name that pops into my head for getting a new HDMI-kitted Xbox would be @ModzvilleUSA (https://twitter.com/modzvilleusa) Just FYI, there's about to be two new options for internal/digital HDMI mods. OXHD (by Ryzee and Harcroft) and an HDMI project being worked on by Nemesis. Both are close to being done. Point being- if you wait a bit you'll have more options beyond MakeMHZ to choose from.

Its a full set in that it has at least one version of every game released. If I had included all the foreign language games then I would of had MANY complaints saying the exact opposite of what you said. I did contemplate adding them but as the VAST MAJORITY of users would prefer not to have them I decided against it. A lot of PAL releases contain multi language anyway. Plus as @Dempsey_86 says there was usually some form of censorship IF a German release was made. Better to have the main PAL release every time imo if you must insist on not having the NTSC version. Also consider the fact that many German, French etc people also do speak and read English very well as a second language. That is correct however I did add a couple of the alternate releases from the Repackinator Alt database, but only as I already had the files downloaded for personal use.

That capacitor is just to smooth power goes into the SPDIF port. It has nothing to do with the actual signal itself. Start by cleaning the AVIP cable and port connections. It's possible you have some dust causing poor contact. Try connecting a generic high intensity red LED between the outer legs of the existing SPDIF port and directing that into your SPDIF cable. If that works but the port does not, it's the SPDIF port burning out. Also try using the SPDIF output from the xbox to another device like a cheap Cmedia CM6206LX USB sound card or Turtle beach DSS. Try another device with SPDIF audio out to your current sound system (again cheap CM6206LX sound card is great for this).

If they had extra content, I would agree with you. But censorship is not content, it's deliberately breaking a game in my opinion. (I know it's a law in Germany). I always need to watch out if I buy 2nd hands games, that it's not a German release.

I did not download the set, but I assume @nikeymikey did a full set as in the main set json in repackinator. This set is build like this: Full NTSC set + all PAL exclusives + all JPN exclusives There is no reason to add french or german games because they are the same game as the NTSC versions. Most of the time they are inferior because there is no 480p support in some of them or they dont have the english langue in them. NTSC is always the better version of the game.

The 'ideal' temperature is, in theory, as low as possible for any PC or games console. Reported temperatures are a matter of question as I suggested in the previous post too and those can vary with Xbox version too. UnleashX and EvoX dashboard temperatures, particularly with v1.6 Xboxes are suspect but are still good for comparison purposes ie. if your normal temperatures suddenly increase without any obvious environmental cause then it is a matter of concern even if the actual figures are unreliable. With any Xbox dashboard you shouldn't be worried if at default fan speed (20%) it reports CPU/GPU as high as 60°C/140°F as it might well do at the height of summer and a long gaming session in a room at 30°+C. You can always switch the fan speed up and, typically, that will reduce the temperatures by about five degree Centigrade with each 20% step. But a retail Xbox fan at 100% is not a quiet thing. With XBMC I'd suggest you do what I do and that is set it to automatic temperature control with the aim temperature as 50°C/122°F and the lowest speed as 20%. In a temperate climate that will keep the fan speed at 20% for much of the year and, obviously, at or below the aim temperature.

Well, It's basically done. I didn't get the DVD "Ready" light to work (it kept fucking with my DVD ROM drive and making it act funny), but I did get the activity light going, separate from the HDD activity LED. LAN is there as well. The two on the left are the RX and TX LEDs for the Super IO debugger. I'll test more tomorrow with the XDK and debugging through LAN, but it looks like this project is good

I got the debugger working. First, some pins were loose on the SMSC chip linking to the LPC pins. Now, it will not work with the 1.4 board I'm trying to use, because the LFrame via is borked. I already know, man. I gouged the shit out of it. Anyway, if I have to use the 1.0 that I used here to test the unit, then I will, but I'm gonna try to get the 1.4 Lframe working. Project is back on track and the BOM I posted is good.

The guy I bought it off of had definitively replaced the paste already and I already re-pasted it again after pulling the heat sinks towards the beginning of this adventure. I may have schmooed a little too much on there or not cleaned them well enough. I didn't have to pry at all to remove the heat sinks so I doubt I damaged the chips. From all the reading I've done on these systems, they seem to be surprisingly durable but also super finicky. Invisible trace rot, bad caps with no signs, stupid disk drives. It all seems fixable, but stupid hard to diagnose. I ordered more thermal paste and I'm gonna drown those chips in ISO soon

Good ideas. I removed the cap from the circuit and intensity didn't change. I was wondering if it was possibly failing and becoming a short. I will grab a toothbrush and clean up the connector. I'm not sure why I didn't think of that. I have a new cap and SPDIF port on the way. The SPDIF port was very worn out from decades of use anyway. I don't have any high intensity LEDs around to experiment with unfortunately. I do have an old PC SPDIF bracket but didn't really feel like desoldering it as that port won't fit well with the XBox adapter anyway (I have it for an old nForce MCP-D motherboard ).

Had I waited just a couple days, I would have saved myself the effort of designing this pico zero pcb I ordered just a couple days before the "official" one was posted on GitHub . Made it according to the schematic for the regular pico so it uses different pins than the "official" one and I didn't add any resistors. Works wonderfully using the regular pico image, with a mayflash magic ns I already had as a receiver for an xbox one controller. Only problem is that I can't seem to get rumble working with this config which is probably some compatibility issue with the mayflash adapter. I'll have to test it wired to confirm. Now to solder a few more of these and order those usb c cables!

Thanks for the tips. I will look over it again. It is of course possible the cabling has hidden damage too. But all the visible wiring looks ok. The optical port is rather worn out though. It had a broken solder joint and the little door barely closes. I wonder if an electrical arc from a broken solder joint could damage it. The port connection also has a lot of play in it. I dug around Digikey and found a replacement emitter assembly that looks remarkably similar to the original, and also bought a replacement cap. We'll see what happens!

This is causing some memories to surface. After playing with these prebuilt releases from around the web, and finding IGR non-working, I looked around more and found the github with python patcher: https://github.com/gaasedelen/titan I patched an original m8 Plus myself and the patch itself is what disables IGR. I don't think you can load the final patched builts into EVTool.

@tiertop Expanding upon Marty's post here, it may be possible that there is a short or something fishy about grounding that is causing attenuation/dimming in the LED or blocking the data signal from reaching the transmitter entirely. Definitely look at ALL the wiring in there.

Looks like you’ve started to lose strands here. I’m assuming this is the cable that the case has ruined, as you mentioned. I don’t see anywhere else that I would personally start my troubleshooting. If you’re capable, I’d repair that connection and see what happens.

I think they are available on Etsy. I bought one there about a year ago. It works well. I've been using it with an 8bitdo wireless adapter and primarily a XBO or PS4 pad. There is a quirk in that the 8bitdo won't pair with the controllers on power up unless I press its connect button.

Yeah hopefully they weren't thrown out. The tape is probably wound tightly enough around the spools to not let water get in. Outside layer might be exposed to water but inner could be fine. Even if the plastic shell is hosed, the tape spools could be transplanted into a donor shell. Several of my tapes had mold on them and I took them apart and sprayed alcohol on them to clean the outer layers and edges. But inside was mostly fine. I also have a stack of hi-8 tapes, but decent camcorders are expensive so been holding off on those. Hopefully you can find and salvage them. OXHD is coming along pretty well from what I can see. They have working boards. Here's a shot of one: https://x.com/OGX_Harcroft/status/1772763477519573003 I actually have an unpopulated OXHD board that I still need to build. My XboxHD+ works just fine, but I'd rather not be locked to Stellar or have to jump through hoops to make it work standalone. When my Stellar wasn't working for some reason, it was a very odd feeling not being able to use my Xbox because I couldn't get a video signal. XboxHD+ works well aside from that requirement and I don't mean to speak badly about it, it's just not a product that suits my particular needs.

Just got a great deal on this. $15 with free shipping on eBay. After your reply I did a little more research on The Third Age. Initially I thought it was Strategy RPG, but to my happy surprise it's standard Turn Base. Don't get me wrong, I like SRPG's, but I have to be in the mood for them. Anyway, thanks again for the suggestion!

don't forget pixelfx is also making their retrogem compatible with Xbox. lots of options very soon

If you just did the those I mentioned (and of course any that looked suspect) you’ll probably be fine for a while. Just thought I’d mention the full recap as an option for down the road. If you run in to issues finding the cpu caps on the board dm me your revision or a pic of the mobo and I can give you the locations and values. For the rf shielding I thought you might find this useful. Quite a few people chimed in with different methods they use (sanding, painting, replacing, etc).

Thanks a mill FrostyMaGee! for all the great info and offer in further guidance. It has been a hell of a journey to say the least.In between reading posts, I managed to get one XBox back to stock and softmodded and upgraded the drive. I ordered the IDE(PATA) adapter 6 years ago along with the 80pin ribbon cable, so was all good to go. Had a few 2TB WD green drives that checked all the boxes. I know you said avoid them but they are very quiet and I haven't noticed any stalling when playing or loading - so far. After my negative experience above with the wrong unlock/lock adapter, I had the workflow down pat playing around with the Warmstor brand IDE adapter from eBay, FATXplorerBeta64 and XBoxHDM-2.3-Beta4 (on the borked but recovered drive above). Quick and easy. Did not tick the right box in FATXplorerBeta64 to format the drive correctly so quickly doing that gave access to the whole drive. Managed to rip most of my games onto the HDD (a few refused to work) and have been a happy chappy since. If anyone needs a link to the IDE unlock adapter in Oz, do let me know. The clock capacitor has been removed on this baby, but I need to replace the x3 caps near the CPU/GPU - thermal paste replaced on both chips. Parts coming in from abroad. Another XBox had a flashing orange ring after cleaning copious filth upon opening and stopped working - was working seemigly ok with carpets of filth - with the orange light indicator and refusing to show an image and then completely blank. I narrowed it down and replaced the ADM1032 Temperature Monitor with this https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/temperature-humidity-sensor-ics/7919623, which may have been indicating overheat and causing the issue. I ripped pads and spent a week micro-soldering to recreate connections but managed to get it onfor continuity. I'll confirm all is working once the caps come in so I can recap both xboxes and then add a 2TB to this one, too. Two remaining questions I have: 1. The damaged caused over time by clock and other cap leakage should not be underestimated. I have been lucky with these two I have and will ensure I get to all the other caps in time. Please please please remove the clock cap at minimum. Apart from the four caps I will have replaced, are there others that have a tendency to do the above mentioned damaged? 2. There seems to be a lot of corrosion/rust on the metal suppoprt frame at the bottom or near the fan. I tried soaking in baking soda but that did not help - maybe I should make the bath more acidic? If anyone has any experience with this corrosion any advice would be appreciated

Absolutely, it's on my list. I've already been able to pick up the other Tolkien games. Looking forward to getting the Third Age.

Welcome! Since you said you enjoy rpgs I thought I’d recommend Lord of the Rings: The Third Age. It’s an rpg I really enjoyed on the original Xbox.

Just done a v1.1 myself. Did get a bridge on chip 3 and whilst going to test on a Jafar loaded with Xblast, it started beeping. Just for future reference. All good now, just wicked it away. Quite easy to spot if you look at a cut across of the board at the chip pins, you've added.

i have an og xbox with a temperature lcd display similar to the one in the pictures below. can someone tell me what temps i should be seeing while gaming as well as while sitting idle at the XBMC dash my xbox is tsop and before i take it apart to replace the paste i wanna check my temps to see if a paste replace is even necessary

Definitely a real thing I've seen in many youtube vids. I most recently saw an lcd temp display on the front of a console. A bit of an eye sore, but a very nice feature.

Hello everyone!, Blz? I'm doing a port of "The Orange Box" For OG Xbox using the official port of HALF-LIFE 2, The Project is already 90% finished and I'm in the last step which is REPACKAGE the files to .XZP (Only)....... In it will include; HALF-LIFE 2 (With some improvements), EPISODE ONE, EPISODE TWO AND PORTAL.... Does not contain TEAM FORTRESS 2 due to Xbox being too weak for it If someone help me create a repackager of .XZP files the game will be completed, anyone available?

Download took about 12h - which is good for me. Extracting took another 10h - now my co2-footprint is very high At least I dont have to ftp all these files.

Signed up to comment on this. Awesome job can't wait to see. I love playing Half-Life 2 on OG xbox. This might be a strange request, but would you be able to have Portal broken off into its own game/ISO? I would love to put it on its own disc and make a custom cover art etc for it separate from Half-Life. Maybe you could have Portal separate, and include the Portal Still Alive game with it. That would be awesome!

Debugger wired up with relocated TX & RX LEDs Quite the shitstorm of wires, I know. But as long as they're never seen... fuck it. I'll hide the wires better Here it is. SuperIO RX and TX lights working on the left. On the right side, from left to right: DVD activity, DVD Ready, HDD activity, LAN activity. This was a long project, but worth the work. I wanted to do a Development kit, but with a little more than the LAN debugging that came with the regular Debug kit. This more like a mix between the DXT-2 (Debug Kit) and DXT-4 (Development kit). The DXT-4 had serial debugging at the kernel level, as opposed to just LAN. I still have a ways to go with my Windows XP SDK setup, but the console is done. I wanted to internalize the serial debugger, so I did, keeping things neat. The only thing is, I would not have view of the Transmission/Receiving LEDs if I did so, so I soldered molexes to the SMD LED pads on the debugger and relocated the LEDs up front. At first I had issues with the debugger, but I managed to finally find some loose pins on the SMSC chip on the debugger linking the chip to the LPC. Once that was fixed, I had to swap out the 1.4 board I was planning to use with a 1.0, since I determined that Lframe could not be made to work on the 1.4. I basically trashed the via on the edge of the MCPX and couldn't repair it. JESUS that thing is fragile. So I plugged it into the 1.0 and I got output through Windbg. Awesome. Then I saw the video of the status LED array and wanted to do the same thing, so I did. A very statusy and verbose console I have here. I call it the DXT-5. Lol. Obviously the console is upgraded to 128MB of RAM. The SuperIO debugger case is printed green (off color but still) as well as the fan shroud. Also printed some green feet since 3 were missing and the one remaining was falling off. The clips used for the LEDs are 3D printed as well. I went with PETG instead of resin, since I have shit luck with resin and everything I make with it turns into crap. lol. The software setup is TSOP flashed Cerbios 2.3.2 Hybrid flagged as debug in the ini. I wanted to keep the LPC free for the SuperIO ribbon. You can do an LPC breakout and have both the debugger and a modchip, but it served no purpose for me and I wanted as much space as possible. I have a PBL out to retail (XBMC) and will create a shortcut in the future so that I can load XBMC straight from the XDK if I need to debug through it for whatever reason. The HDD structure is just like my other HDDs and consoles. 2TB with XBMC as the main and based on the Origins image. The debug flag in the ini is what gets me to boot into teh XDK dash. However, I still need to learn to code, so I will probably start with hello world, and then write my first app installing and then enabling or disabling the FPS overlay DXT extension. The USB-C breakout I used is here: https://www.adafruit.com/product/4090 This is what fits into the Rear USB-C breakout board mount STL I included in the bundle. Buy one, it's only a few bucks, but get the 1 Ft cable, too. Forgive me for not doing a pinout, but a pinout can be done yourself with a multimeter and a cable with the wires exposed on one end and the other plugged into the jack. That's what I did. You have to put the cable through the RF shield and then solder the wires to the board... unless you wanna just cut some of the grille off the RF shield. However, you do need to fit it into one of the bottom vents (the bottom left, looking at it from the inside of the case) and you will see a channel in the fan for the USB cable to go through. Line it up with that. I have included in this package all the 3D prints, wiring diagrams and info (Gerber, BOM) for the SuperIO debugger that I used to make this development kit. If you need anything, ask me. Debug Kit Goodie Bundle: https://mega.nz/file/JqdiFTqb#Ca4eF9tDnwTdIUDDyewTpFyj7p-Jqa73LLHCZmvV5jU

When you buy some used consoles on Ebay or elsewhere when you see "Refurbished" stickers on them? I bought a number recently, and one had a refurbished sticker underneath it. When I opened it up it was missing one screw for the PS, both screws for one and two controller ports and broken tabs to help hold down the fan! Man these guys are crude!

The HDD and LAN activity LEDs have the cathode go to the point indicated. DVD points, however, must have anodes go to the point.

I’ve never actually seen one with a refurbished sticker. I would generally disregard unless they give a detailed list of the work done to them and it includes a recap. For any I’ve ever sold I never called them refurbished and always listed a very detailed sheet of things done (including an itemized list of caps replaced including location, values, brand, etc) and photos of the work inside and out. Half the Xboxes I’ve seen of late with the claim of “refurbished” appear to have been opened up and blown out with a can of compressed air. Somehow that’s “refurbished”. Lol Btw, how did these people leave a psu screw out? They’re only two in it. LOL. It shouldn’t be missing any but I could maybe understand if one was missing from say the mobo. Maybe. The broken tabs for the heat sinks and no screws for one of the dual controller ports…unacceptable. I’d expect that in a parts box only.

So, I did some testing with my 1.0 with a single TSOP split switch (512k/512k), with Xblast.xbe. Xblast correctly identifies the TSOP chip, regardless of the switch is in the A position or the B position. However, when flashing, it will crash and freeze halfway through flashing the A position, or it will complete the flashing and reboot on the B position. Either way, it will flash the bios (mostly) correctly even if it freezes. I say mostly, because I then ran the latest BiosChecker XBE with CRC codes added for the various version Cerbios files I was testing, and it resulted in very strange results, some that showed obvious corruption. One of the switch positions showed 256k slot A as what was really in slot A, then position 2 as what was in slot B, then position 3 as what was in slot A, and position 4 as what was in slot B. The other switch position showed something like a correct slot 1, and correct slot 3 for what was flashed, but a CRC that didn't match anything flashed to it in slot 2 or slot 4. I was able to recover from a bad flash, by completely booting the system, and then completely loading Xblast, and THEN flipping the switch from the bank that worked, to the bank that wouldn't boot, and then flashing in Xblast. I had to do this, because some test BIOS'es I flashed just failed to boot at all. Due to this testing, I would go with what was pointed out by @KaosEngineer in the 2017 'TSOP splitting' thread, that explained "Why you shouldn't do TSOP Splitting": https://web.archive.org/web/20070205091445/http://www.xbox-linux.org/wiki/Why_you_shouldn%27t_do_TSOP_Splitting After running on the split bios on an old, fairly beat up system, I attempted to use XCAT 1.0 to archive what was on a few different pulled HDD's, and after running for sometimes hours, it would eventually just crash and completely shut down long before the archiving was complete. The crashing might be unrelated, due to the console being beat as hell, but the results of the BiosChecker were very odd and disconcerting either way, and the article linked above does kind of explain the dangers of attempting to split a bios, and how it's honestly not really worth it, if stability is important to you.

Haven't come across that yet. I would completely disregard a "refurbished" sticker. May mean something to the average person but not to us.

I found this usb c to xbox controller port adapter on AliExpress: https://a.aliexpress.com/_Euz8mmF I think it would be a nice fit for this project!

The 2Tb sata upgrade makes sooo much difference. I love having games running on it and not having to use the dvd drive. I’ve had it that way for far too many years and have been spoiled by it. Lol. Oh and that warmstor adapter has been one of the most consistent adapters I’ve used for locking/unlocking the ide hdds since my old usb adapter died a few years back. I’ve never run in to an ide hdd it didn’t work with using fatxplorer or Xboxhdm. When you get to the hdd upgrade stage you’ll need an 80 wire 40 pin ide cable to replace the stock cable, a sata to pata adapter for the hdd (startech preferred unless you have one of the dvd drives that doesn’t play well with those and then usually the green Chinese brand works. The most important feature is to have a master/slave pin designation option as you’ll need this), and obviously a sata drive. If you stay mechanical something like a WD Blue or Black works well. Avoid any of the green or power saving type hdds. If you’re not building a new drive via fatxplorer or Xboxhdm and plan on using Chimp to clone your old drive then you’ll also need a molex splitter or you can use the power from the warmstor adapter to power the sata drive during the cloning process. It’s an easy process and everyone here can make recommendations on hardware and help out with the process when you get ready to proceed. Best of luck and glad you were able to get the current stuff straightened out!

A reflow of the additional RAM chips solved my freezing issue. Turns out that XblastOS can pass tests even with some pins not secured.

This guide and pictures taken from: http://www.biline.ca/xbox_solder.htm TSOP Flashing Unlock points if you are unsure which Xbox version you have click Here TSOP unlock points for version 1.0/1.1 Xbox This is the top of the motherboard Connect the two solder pads at R7D3 as in photo above. This is the bottom side of motherboard Connect the two solder pads at R7R3 as in photo above. All Ver 1.0/1.1 Xbox's with a 'SHARP' TSOP chip must also connect the additional red wire as in the photo above. All other TSOP's DO NOT require this step. TSOP Unlock points for all Versions 1.2/1.3/1.4/1.5/ Xbox's This is the top side of the motherboard These Xbox's have both points located on the top of the motherboard, for the first point connect the two solder pads at R7D10 as in photo above. For the second point locate the junction between R7D2 and R7D1 and connect the two solder pads as in the photo above. After the solder points are completed you should re-assemble your xbox (but leave the top cover off) when the power button is pressed it should boot normally as it did before you started. Note if you get the message TSOP write protected while attempting to Flash the TSOP you might need to check and resolder the points to ensure a good connection was m while attempting to Flash the TSOP you might need to check and resolder the points to ensure a good connection was made. To split Split a 1MB TSOP (v1.0, v1.1) into 4 banks of 256k, the following picture explains how to accomplish this: Note: If you have a 1.6/1.6b Xbox, it has no TSOP and therefore you cannot flash it. You will have to install a modchip or softmod.

Yes, I usually only post when there is a big update, at the moment I'm without my PC, so I can't go very far, but I have 2 maps from Episode 1, and 2 from Episode 2 running successfully.... Portal is already running all (missing models and textures).... When I get another PC I will start making optimizations on the episode 2 maps to be able to run them all on the Xbox with a good frame rate and all the content (or almost everything).

Down to 9. I am currently in the hospital (for my Wife) so I may be a bit more slow to respond... but I will! (on a plus side... Our family has grown by one). @roastedRingwormI haven't forgotten about you... and yours are set aside and not included in the 9. I should get with you by the end of week (so far been extended 2 more days in the hospital)

Hi all, I have decided to fill some of my spare time ( just need to find some) with getting back into the OG XBOX and modding. Hoping that I can find all the tools I need here. I have my old XBOX ready to go Wish me luck im going in

Hi ! I'm from Italy, i have my Xbox since when i was a kid and now that i have some time i want to bring back to life my old Xbox. It's nice to that the Xbox is still alive !

Hi to all! I'm very please to announce that I'm working hard on porting as many as I can stuffs from Kodi's GUILIB to make XBMC4Xbox more up to date with Kodi. All of this started as desire to port Estuary skin and current GUILIB that XBMC4Xbox had is very outdated and porting wasn't possible. So I started to look through Kodi's soruce code from around 2011 and slowly I was starting on implementing functionalities. Threads on Kodi forum helped me a lot because every major release of Kodi had a quick brief of all changes that were done to GUILIB. Ofcourse there aren't all changes but most crucial and important are. Here is a video that showcase what I have currently: Don't worry about all missing things. That has nothing to do with XBMC4Xbox GUILIB. Reason for all this "error & missing things" is because of XBMC4Xbox doesn't have same Window IDs and InfoLabels like Kodi. But that's not a hard to fix, the most important thing is that XBMC4Xbox GUILIB is up to date with Kodi's (v15). P.S. It would be really nice if admins could create separate subforum for XBMC, just like there are for Rocky5's projects and N64Freaks products. I would like to have XBMC4Xbox forum with subforums: General, Development, Skins, Plugins & Scripts.

Yes, still I'm working on it! i'm that a short on time and resources on moment, but I'm firm and strong! You can wait and one day The Orange Box will still be Complete on Xbox and with new and unusual features!

Yeah, I have calipers already and only really need the dementions of the post holes and can then remix one of the free files already out there. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel lol. Yes to the adapter on the molex. Technically this kit is designed to relocate your HDD over the mobo to allow fans to be installed over the PSU. Thats cool and all, but 32tb of storage is cooler. (It may, in fact, be hotter once im done ) If you run the entire unique library of around 1045 games as full ~7gb as full ISO you need a 8-10tb HDD just to hold the OX library. I personally have another 1.2tb of retro roms and emulators in my build. I plan to use the rest of the space as onsite backup for my media server. All my important stuff has a cloud backup, but I can't justify payimg to stire ~5tb of movies and music. I haven't been able to justify purchasing another large storage solution recently and this will be a great option. I have seen others share ffmpeg downscaling solutions that they claim have worked but haven't tried any myself yet.

Question is: what can you even do with 32tb or storage on an OG? Much beyond 4tb is incredibly hard to fill. Not knocking it though, nature abhors a vacuum and hopefully people will find ways of utilising the storage. Hopefully it kicks off a renaissance in using the OG as a media player; I managed to watch a few downscaled blu-rays after carefully tweaking their encoding but it was kind of a headache. Great picture and sound quality though. If someone could make the process of encoding stuff easier, I could see more people using this kind of storage.

Yes, why do you think it would not work? The Xbox controller port is USB with an extra Yellow wire used by a lightgun. Source: https://photobucket.com/gallery/user/xphazer/media/cGF0aDovWGJveFVzYlBpbnNfenBzYzI3ZTMxNTIuanBn/?ref=

The TRAY_IN needs to be held high (3.3 volt) to tell the main board the DVD tray is closed And from memory the CD_RDY need to be held low(0 volt) to tell the main board the CD/DVD is ready. The NEJECT is high (3.3 volt ) until you or send a tray open by pressing the eject. Cheers SS Dave Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

Does Somebody hast Pictures of a 1.4 diagram