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Showing most liked content since 01/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Hey everyone sppv made a grepo and he has shut it down so i am helping him keep the files up still so he made a app called net builder so i hope you guys enjoy here is the link https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lmoiuCoHmjvKgZEhY--Cndoa40EZmPqC
  2. 2 points
    Got 3 Diy install sets for the internal HDMI mod for sale right now. Keep in mind you should be handy with a soldering iron. It's not a lot more complicated than a chip install but if you already have trouble with an xbox chip leave this mod alone for now. Price for each set is: 70€ +shipping costs. Drop me a PM if you want one!
  3. 2 points
    Dude 100$s plus the solderless part is not a bad price and i could see this selling very easily so i dont know what you mean by its a bad deal
  4. 2 points
    Go ahead and softmod the Xbox first. Then you will be able to FTP into the Xbox and copy all the saves to your computer for backup. FTP is a method of networking into your Xbox, or many other types of computer systems, from your computer. You need an FTP program, I prefer Filezilla. Once the Xbox is softmodded and plugged into your network it will have it's own IP address just like every other device on the network. You open your FTP program and connect to the IP address of the Xbox and it will open up a listing of the Xbox's hard drive where you will be able to upload and download files on it. You should also go ahead and open the Xbox and determine what model it is, if it is below a 1.6 model you need to remove the clock capacitor to prolong it's life. It sounds like a lot of information all at once but there are plenty of tutorials to help you out and we are always happy to help with any questions you have.
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    Now i have started on my first slim XboX. It is an 1.1 xbox i bought a while a go, it has a Xcuter2 Lite chip it, so my first working chipped xbox. Thought this was i good candidate for an slim, since i can run it without the DVD PCB. I rigged the "dremel" and got ready to cut (after reading a couple of guides) But the switch broke when I tried to start it..... Had to fix it: Found the bigger toy for cutting the shield Test fitting while cutting: I mounted a 60mm fan to the shield. And test fitted it in the bottom And finally fitted the newly cut down dvd caddy with HDD (not the one i am using yet). Need to get a molex extender, since it wont reach as it is. I am pretty happy with my first slim xbox. It is not finished yet, i am thinking of tinting the lid. Not decided what style jewel to go for yet, or if I should mount the shield again or not. Maybe leave as is, or black out the interior. Maybe even som led mods? But it seems like the hardes part of the mod went pretty well, I'll let you decide. I also have to make or source some bolts to use, and not decided if tinting it black, red or red with black on top...... Sent fra min NX551J via Tapatalk
  7. 1 point
    Gonna ask someone who has vast experience on soldering to do this to me, or else get a conductive ink. Really people don't release how good this console is, when I see it on sale on major game shops is always collecting dust, as an underrated system, and people don't know his power to emulate a true arcade machine and dozens of game systems, you can get most of that with the Pandora system that costs three to four times more, or a raspberry pi 3, with all extras will surely reach almost the same price as a Pandora, but none of them gives you a dedicated HDD and the ability to play dozens of emulators and a list of more 800 original games made for this system, I would say this is a heck of a console.
  8. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk
  9. 1 point
    Glad you are here!
  10. 1 point
    Been wanting to get my hands on this for a while, will be a great update to have on hand. Thank you!
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Here is an app pack of every thing you should need for all your modding needs for original xbox and quite a few tutorials.
  13. 1 point
    I'd like to buy this from you, send me a DM with your PayPal info and I'll send you my address.
  14. 1 point
    Yea i collect alot of original xbox files as i find them and add them into that google drive
  15. 1 point
    Yea no problem took me a while to put together
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Can you provide a USB descriptor dump of one of the controllers? If you google something like 'usb descriptor dump' there should be tools to do it easily. This is the first one that comes up for me and does the business: https://www.thesycon.de/eng/usb_descriptordumper.shtml I want to confirm there's nothing too different from a genuine wired controller.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    The capacitor will leak and when it does it can literally eat through the traces of the motherboard. Removing the capacitor and cleaning up the area helps prevent this. If it is not removed it's just a matter of time before the Xbox quits working. On the 1.6 boxes they upgraded the caps to a higher quality and it's not currently an issue, in fact they are required on a 1.6 for the Xbox to even boot. Any system below a 1.6 needs it removed as soon as possible.
  20. 1 point
    Currently not, but it shouldn't be hard to add. I don't own any wired controllers so if anyone is happy to test let me know To play with multiple wired controllers, you will need to connect a USB 2.0 Hub to the port you would normally just connect the Wireless receiver.
  21. 1 point
    For the reboot of xbox when your run gta sa, the problem is version of default is NTSC and the xbox is PAL. Here the fix https://www.mediafire.com/file/90pq3ram3vm7oha/GTA_San_Andreas_FIX_Pal.rar/file there is two version of default.xbe inside the archive one output 480i (work ONLY with composite cable), and the other output 480p (work ONLY with component cable). Then if you want to use custom draw distace, first your need to patch the fixed default.xbe to use extra ram and new CPU, then use the modded stream.ini for draw distance i edit three timecyc.dat; x4,x7,x10. https://www.mediafire.com/file/j54h5df4c32uhxu/Draw_Distance.rar/file I hope this will help. your welcome man!!! stream.ini
  22. 1 point
    Saw someone else's pictures of their XBlast Lite v1 Pre-edition modchip and U4 was labeled AUA. I see many different SMD chips with that labeling. Not sure why many chips use the same SMD marker. But not all are in a 6 pin package. I think it's a 1.2V - 8V, 3A PFET High Side Load Switch w/ Level Shift & Adj Slew Rate Control - TI TPS27081A or similar part from another manufacturer.
  23. 1 point
    The source for the XBlast OS (BIOS) has been released just not a schematic and CPLD source code. bennydiamond @ assemblergames.com (aka psyko_chewbacca @ xbmc4xbox.org.uk) worked on this project for many many hours to build the modchip and write the custom OS. From what I understand, sales of the modchip were not as high as expected for the first release's run. His chip is/was much more expensive than the current Chinese Aladdin XT plus 2's but has many more features.
  24. 1 point
    wow good job man it looks so clean
  25. 1 point
    1. ??? 2. Yes, the Xilinx CPLD chip will have to be programmed; however, the JEDEC file and source code for the XBlast modchip have not been released to the public. 3. The XBlast modchip and Aladdin XT plus 2 mod use a different CPLD. They are not compatible with each other. Different code will have to be used to program the Xilinx CPLD on the XBlast modchip. See #2.
  26. 1 point
    Yes, you're right, with upgraded xbox; the game will use 64 MB of extra RAM and the higher processor will give more and stable FPS. Gta sa uses only 13 MB of streaming memory (loading textures and buildings dffs), the rest being used to load vehicles, animations, peds. so imagine what a xbox of 128mb ram that can do.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Isn't it quite easy to make a sync button on a wire? Then we can mount the sync button where we like Sent fra min SM-G930F via Tapatalk
  29. 1 point
    I was going to recommend Emustation as well but since it seems he is not very comfortable messing with dashboards I kinda figured it was a little advanced for him. I set up Emustation on every box I work on for people. It's my favorite dashboard by far.
  30. 1 point
    As there might be a couple people out there who want to own an Xbox Alpha Development kit but don’t want to spend the Cash they cost I thought I just write up a guide how to build one yourself with off the shelf parts! This is not the first guide about this topic out there but hopefully the most detailed and helpfull! I’m going to do this as a picture supported step-by-step guide so it should be easy to follow for anybody. Let’s start with the parts used in the Alpha2 Console: -Intel VC820 Desktop Board -128MB RD Ram (Kingston KVR800X 18-8/128) -733Mhz Slot 1 CPU (Part number SL3XN) -250Watt ATX PSU (ATNG Model: PS-250S) -20GB IDE HDD (Fujitsu MPF3204AT) -3,5” FDD (Sony MPF920-C) -DVD Drive (Hitachi GD-7000) -64MB Geforce3 (180-P0050-0000-A05) -Network Card (Intel Pro/100) -Soundcard (Wolfson Micronics WM9707_AMR_EV1_Rev2) -USB Card (Xircom Portgear PGPCI2 ) Now on to the parts you need to buy for a basic bootable setup: -Intel VC820 Desktop Board (CC820 should also work!) -128MB RD Ram -733Mhz Slot1 CPU -Any ATX PSU 250Watt or more -IDE HDD 20GB or bigger -Any DVD Drive that reads self-burned CD-r -64mb Geforce 3 NV20 Video Card ->more details a bit later! -Intel Pro/100 Network Card That’s the minimum that is needed to get the alpha to boot the recovery CD. If you want to be able to do anything except looking at the Recovery Screen you need some more parts: -2 Port USB Card that uses an Opti Firelink 82C861 Chipset -Xbox Controller to USB Adapter +Xbox Controller -Wolfson Micronics Soundcard (or the recreated Version) -Any Case to install it all to. (The original case for the alphas is the GlobalWin YCC-802) That’s how my stack off parts for the alpha looks like: Once you have all the parts together let’s start by putting it together! Guess I don’t have to cover how to install the CPU, Ram, Video Card, PSU, Network card, Audio Card and the Drives. The end result should look like this. It’s not important in which pci port the usb and lan card are installed. BUT it is important that the lan card is installed as the Alpha won’t boot otherwise!!! When it’s all put together turn it on and check that it properly posts and there are no errors or whatever before continuing! Now on to burning a recovery CD! (Thanks to Borman for releasing the May2001 Alpha2 recovery! All credit goes to him for the release!) You can find the files in the download section and can simply download them. Here's a direct link to the files on an external Server: Alpha Recoveries and VGA Bios Once downloaded just use ImgBurn (or any other iso burning software) to write the May2001 recovery to a cd-r disc. Pop that disc into the DVD drive off your alpha and you should see the Xbox animation and should be greated by this recovery Screen afterwards: Now (if you haven’t done it earlier) plug in the Controller using the matching adapter and Press any button to start the recovery. The progress bar should show how far the progress is. It shouldn’t take any longer than 5 Minutes to finish and you will see this screen. Then remove the recovery disc from the drive and reboot. You should then be greeted by the following screen where you can set a name for your alpha console. Congratulations your Alpha Development kit is now fully working and ready to be used! Soundcard: I recreated the Soundcard to build a completely working alpha kit for myself as the original Alpha soundcards are as rare as the original alphas. If you need one for your build just drop me a message and I can build a couple more! Graphics Card: The video card is an important part of this build so here’s a little extra information about that part. The Card needs to be an NV20 Core Card with 64mb. 32MB cards might also work but we want to be as close as possible so buy a 64mb card to not get into trouble! I successfully tested 2 card from 2 different vendors: -Medion MS-8838 Geforce3 200ti -MVGA-NVG3T2A 64MB Many other NV20 core cards should work and I gladly extend that list if you used another card on your build! J Flashing the engineering Bios is NOT needed it is only a cosmeticall detail you might enjoy. The motherboard does also not need to be on a special Bios version or anything. Troubleshooting: You Get a blinking black cursor and no Xbox boot animation? ->You might have forgotten to install the Lan card, got a wrong one or your Nvidia Card is not supported! Your DVD-drive doesn’t spin up and you end up with an intel Network card boot/bios Screen? ->Something might have gone wrong with the CD you burned or your drive can’t read the cd-r! Could also be a problem with the boot order! Check that in the Bios the dvd drive should be the first boot device! If you have any questions about the build or anything just drop me a PM!
  31. 1 point
    Hey everyone I found this website and I figured I share it the name is arcade punks here is an link to there xbox files https://www.arcadepunks.com/original-xbox-file-archive/ merry x-mas og xbox.
  32. 1 point
    Hey everyone im having a delay on the downloads I will be getting 2tbs of data on google drive tommarrow just reply too me if any of you want to add some files btw not taking roms
  33. 1 point
    I will have an link up tommarow for everything xbox cause I got a drop box setup so be on watch for that tommarow.
  34. 1 point
    And feel free to post something if you have any problems
  35. 1 point
    Well this is a great site to start learning how to mod the og xbox along with xbox-hq that has some pretty good stuff on there too.
  36. 1 point
    I would try a new cable or try taking off like 20gb in xbox partitioner
  37. 1 point
    Hey everyone I am getting 2tb in google drive and I will be putting xbox files in there as I will not fill up all of it so if anyone wants to put some of there xbox files in there I don't mind but I wont put any roms inside there just let me know by PMing me or commenting on this post thx.
  38. 1 point
    I haven't seen many people post information about XCM shells, which some are mislead or mixed up between Ghost Cases, so I'll try to clear that up here with information I've gathered over the years. . XCM stands for (Xbox Custom Mods). Originally XCM started back in the glorified days modding Original Xbox and shortly moved to other Consoles. For those who are not familiar with XCM at all, XCM is a third party company that makes thirds party accessories and replacement cases for multiple game consoles (not just Xbox). They are still in production mainly for the newer generation consoles and handhelds but as for Original Xbox the shells are long out of production. So far in my years of collecting I've only encountered 5 shell variations that XCM produced years ago. Many have tried to have the company reproduce the shells as well as suggestions for different colors other than the 5 variations and have failed so XCM shells still retain their value. Although the shells were probably equally manufactured ill list them in rarity based on my encounters an opinions. The shells are still made from cheaper plastic from the original OEM shells but much higher quality than ghost Case Shells. Finding an XCM shell in worthy condition (Not cracked or Yellowed) is hard to find nowadays and can fetch for a high price. This is when I bought a brand new Red XCM back in the day, It's the best way I can show a parts list right out of the box. (Junkie Cheap Controller and bag of parts Not included) LOL #1 XCM Crystal Ruby Red Edition The beloved transparent Crystal Red XCM shell. This shell is literally the most sought after shell out of the 4 other variations mainly of course for the elegant ruby color. Microsoft never made crystal red limited editions so having a modded red console sticks out in any Xbox collection. Through the years I have seen this console shell pop up new in box like 4-5 times and personally I've owned about 4 of these myself which were sold off to new owners. The shell was a full body set with everything you need to dress the console. (Red Top, Face plate and Bottom Shell, Signature XCM DVD Red bezel, Red eject/power buttons fitted with a red ring, signature clear jewel showing "XCM Crystal" on it and 4 spongy pads for the feet) #2 XCM Crystal Clear/Transparent Edition This XCM shell matches Microsoft's original limited edition crystal shell. These shells in particular looked amazing with an Xecuter's Crystal Control Panel giving your Xbox an all decked out look with nothing retail. I've encountered a few people who have owned these shells but never in perfect shape. I managed to find two of them brand new in the wild and lots cracked, broken or missing the correct parts. Due to the type of plastic degrade yellowing can occur which can maybe be fixed with RetroBright or something.? People have used these for Painting... I know a crystal Orange or Green XCM would be unique but if your shell is in perfect condition it puts a pain in a collectors heart. Set comes with (Clear Top, Face plate and Bottom Shell, Signature XCM DVD Clear bezel, Clear eject/power buttons fitted with a Clear ring, signature clear jewel showing "XCM Crystal" on it and 4 spongy pads for the feet) #3 XCM Crystal Sapphire Blue Edition This shell is a matching of Microsoft's Halo 2 Ice Blue Limited Edition Console. These shells are bad ass fitted with a Blue Xecuter Control Panel, I have found only one in the wild brand new, only a set few used throughout the Xbox forums and I have only owned two of these. I believe back in the day these shells were sought after big time because of it being a cheaper option than buying a Ice Blue Limited Edition. This set comes with (Blue Top, Face plate and Bottom Shell, Signature XCM DVD bezel, Blue eject/power buttons fitted with a Blue ring, signature clear jewel showing "XCM Crystal" on it and 4 spongy pads for the feet) #4 XCM Crystal Pure White Edition This glacial white shell matches Microsoft's very rare limited edition pure white 2nd anniversary console. I have not found even one of these brand new in the wild and I've only owned one. These shells are made of a pure white plastic that may look painted but also can suffer yellowing over time Like the Panzer Dragoon Limited Edition. This console comes with (White Top, Face plate and Bottom Shell, Signature XCM DVD bezel, White eject/power buttons fitted with a Clear ring, signature clear jewel showing "XCM Crystal" on it and 4 spongy pads for the feet). #5 XCM Crystal Silver Edition. Unlike the other XCM's this one is painted but painted by XCM themselves. I've owned 1 & 1/2 of one of these. During my hunting days I've only came across two of these shells, one with the Jewel Drilled out and missing the correct eject/power buttons. and this one here above which is near mint condition. There's not much information on these but doubtfully less appeasing to the eyes. I'm not sure why XCM went the silver route but I think they were attempting a chrome like look but in my theory I'd say this one is the hardest to find due to the lack of interest on it and the assumption that it was a crystal XCM shell not custom painted by XCM.
  39. 1 point
    Hey guys here is another pack for you guys. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1auJ7di6u772WS_B5bUJTW85kNRI_LWff
  40. 1 point
    Hi I know this site is for original xbox but if anyone is looking for a all in one download pack of jrunner I have a copy right here https://drive.google.com/open?id=14AfY7aw35d-mitvLDtAIbWlIMbTNE0Ne
  41. 1 point
    Hey guys im just putting out my YouTube channel This one is a gaming one but I will soon be making another channel that is about modding. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrzwo9qpzCi20Ubq75UXJDg?view_as=subscriber
  42. 1 point
    Here is just a full set of original xbox trainers so enjoy. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1uDFvudNygx4gigztawEsbteyiyDQk2n5
  43. 1 point
    Here is a softmod pack I did so enjoy. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Sixko_u8PaVKoAVtlKrNL1PXgx6-ga34
  44. 1 point
    Hey guys here is another pack I spent a lot of time searching the internet for all of this so enjoy. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1MuSRNL7L2Iyf5E-zgOufBmbrCRFH6Dxn
  45. 1 point
    Hey guys I have another pack I put together go check it out. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1o5XU8rJ72NlHkpVXIUxfuMdln972oJGk
  46. 1 point
    Here is a step by step tutorial for making a high quality component cable using an Xbox 360 component cable and a standard original Xbox Composite AV cable that pretty much everyone will have. I was looking for an original Xbox component cable recently and my options were a cheap Chinese non brand component cable, a monster cable or an official HD kit. The latter being crazy expensive nowadays. Since I have a background in electronics I thought why not make one from a 360 cable if a standard AV cable has all the pins present but not wired. I did a quick Google and I am not the first to have done this but thought I'd throw up this step by step for anyone who isn't afraid of some small soldering. You could just splice a 360 component cable onto a Chinese component cable but this way you have a pretty much official cable that is very high quality.. Here goes. Get yourself a 360 component cable and a standard AV cable with the 3 RCA plugs, red, white and yellow. . Cut the head off your original Xbox AV cable. Take a hair dryer to it now to make the plastic sleeve malleable and remove the sleeve from around the socket. Use a screwdriver to help pry it off if needs be. It should come pretty easy but don't be too rough as we want to get it back on at the end. Now loosen off the clasps around the cable by prying them out with a screwdriver and then with a long nose pliers if needed. Again don't go too mad as we will need to squeeze these back on at the end. Now you should be able to remove half this casing. The socket itself with the pins will still be secured inside. Now take a long nose pliers and carefully separate the remaining casing. Do this carefully and slowly just enough so you can remove the pin housing. The less you bend this the nicer it will look at the end. Take note of the way the two sides lock into each other. The little tabs click in from the top. So grab the side with the tab and pull up. So pull up the right hand side then turn it around and again pull up the right hand side. Patience.remember this has to go back together. Try to open this up less than I have here if you can. Don't worry about the black shield cables soldered on to the casing. We will be removing these anyway. Once you get the pins out if you're lucky you'll just have a piece of black tape over the pins. If you're unlucky you'll have a blob of hot glue over them both sides. Don't despair....you can get this off with some small effort. If you are met with the glue you can again soften it with a hair dryer and get a screwdriver and gouge the majority of it off carefully. I would then get some sticky stuff remover and spray it on and leave it for 5 minutes. Then carefully scrape lengthways down along each pin with the corner of your small flathead screwdriver until it is all gone. Take your time and make sure it's all off. This is the stuff I use for that. Here is the pins that the lucky people will get with the tape. Lovely clean pins straight from the factory. Now take your 360 component cable and cut the head off this just below it's socket and get the sleeve off your original Xbox socket and put it onto your 360 cable. Just keep turning it until it goes on. It's pretty much the exact fit. And a second time...PUT THE SLEEVE ON YOUR 360 CABLE BEFORE YOU START TO SOLDER!!! You do not want that sinking feeling when you've just done lots of tedious work to find you've to de-solder everything because you forgot to put the sleeve on. Now take a sharp knife and about 2 inches back from the end score a ring around the insulation. Take your time and bend it a bit and let the sharp knife do the work. Don't go mad here. You want all of the shields inside to be intact. Again. Patience. You'll be met with a load of cables with a braided shield around them. The cable with the colour is the signal every time and the shield wrapped around it is that signals ground. It is possible you could find two cables, a signal and ground both insulated and not braided shields. Either way it's the same thing and actually easier if you don't have the braided ones because the braids are trickier to solder because they are bigger. You will also have some white fibres up the middle. Cut these off. And an overall screen, the one that's on it's own. Don't cut this off. For each cable push the braid down a bit to loosen it and make a hole as near the base as you can by separating the braid and pull the coloured cable through. Then pull the braid and twist it nice and tight without breaking it. The idea is to get it as thin as you can. When you've separated each signal from it's screen measure it against the length of cable already soldered onto the original Xbox pins and give yourself a bit extra and cut them all. Strip the ends of each signal. Only about 3 or 4mm and be careful not to pull out strands while stripping the insulation. Make sure there are on stray strands by giving the ends a little twist and tin the ends and also tin about a half inch or so of each braided screen. Try keep them tight with no loose strands. To tin put a small bit of solder on your iron and use this to heat up the wire and flow the solder with the transferred heat of the wire, not the iron. This makes the strands basically into a solid cable. Now desolder all on the cables from your original Xbox pins. Also I highly recommend you use Weller solder or similar decent quality solder as it will make life easier than using cheap stuff. Now to the good stuff. I have taken this diagram from an online search and did not create it myself. It is the best diagram out there and credit to the Creator. I will find the name of the guy on YouTube that has done this and credit him. So you have already tinned your cable ends and braided screens. Now you want to go and tin each pin you will be using. Just a tiny bit of solder and heat the pin for a second. Do not stay on the pins with your iron for anything over 2 seconds or you'll melt plastic. Take your time. Everything one by one. When you've tinned all the pins all you need to do for every solder joint is put a tiny bit on your iron and press down gently and the tinned cable will marry into the tinned pin. Do not use extra solder, no need. The tiny bit I suggest for your iron is simply to transfer the heat. Go ahead and tin pins 1, 2, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 18, 19, 21 and 22. That is for audio right and left signals and grounds, two jumpers for the mode and red, green and blue signal and grounds. To note the connector I've used here is one that was covered in hot glue so it looks a bit bashed up but is electrically sound. Audio right - red to pin 1 and it's ground to pin 2. Also make 2 small jumper wires and tin them as previously. Solder these as shown to pins 6 and 7. Bend the jumper wires around to the other side and solder pin 6 jumper to pin 18 and pin 7 jumper to pin 19. Ignore that strand to the right, that is the overall screen and it's not soldered to a pin, just a bad picture. Blue signal to 9 and it's ground to 10. Green signal to 11 and it's ground to 12. Audio left - white signal to 14 and it's ground to 15. Be careful that you don't mix up the pink with the white, they look very very similar. Last but not least the pink signal wire to 22 and it's ground to 21. Careful with this one. All the rest were 'signal, ground' and this one is 'ground, signal'. Tape up the yellow cable. Nice to have a spare socket at the end of your cable so you can fix this in years to come if one of the rca plugs every gets broken you can solder the yellow up instead. Take the yellows ground and twist the thin overall ground wire around it. Bend it as shown and then tin them together with some solder. We will use this to ground the metal housing on the plug. Scratch up this part on the plug housing with a screwdriver. Now turn your iron up a touch if needed and flow solder onto the part you just scratched up. Solder the screen from the yellow that we tinned together with the overall screen to this part of the case. Cut a strip of electrical tape. The width of standard electrical tape is perfect to cover the pins. I recommend you do this instead of hot glue to insulate the pins. At this point plug it in to your OGXbox and see does it all look good. (Troubleshooting tips at the bottom of this post if it doesn't look quite right) Put this guy back into the other part on the plugs housing and carefully crimp back on the cable grips after around the outer insulation. If you were careful taking apart your plug top earlier you will be happy right about now. If you weren't don't worry, just get a long nose pliers and carefully form it all back together. Remember these tabs click in from the top. They won't sit right if you try click them in from the under side so you'll have to do a touch of light convincing with a long nose pliers again. Be careful of the pins inside now. Don't want to break it now after all of that. Don't lose the cool once they are almost snug you can put a bit of pressure on the tabs with a screwdriver to secure the housing. Once it is fairly solid slide your sleeve back down to cover it up. Now what you have is a top quality fully Microsoft component cable for your OGXbox. In my opinion it's better quality by a mile than the old HD kit and and the monster cable. It's also two fingers up to the cretins that want 70 quid for a cable. You'll get a brand new 360 component cable for around the price of one of those horrendous terribly shielded Chinese component cables and everyone has an AV composite 3 plug standard cable lying around. Also the 360 cable is about 2 metres long. Hope this is of some use to someone. I originally threw a few of them pictures up on the Facebook group but thought I'd post it up here as a reference for anyone who is interested. TROUBLESHOOTING: When you have finished soldering all of the pins do a continuity test with your multi-meter between each pin that are next to each other, You may have one strand from the shield bridging the pin next to it. If this is the case you can try run a sharp knife between the pins to separate any stray strands. A quick multi-meter test is to test between each tip of each RCA plug to the pin you soldered for that signal on the plug. Also check the tip of each against ground (outer ring or barrel the of RCA) make sure there is nothing bridged out. Note that all ground will be connected together. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and it doesn't look right, go back and check each cable you soldered against the diagram again and if needs be reflow any dodgy joints. If you plug it in to your OGXbox and you are missing a colour again go back and check your wiring/soldering. The colours are RGB (Red = Pink cable, Green = Green cable, Blue = Blue cable) For example if you see only Greens and Blues when you load up a game the issue is with your Red colour (Pink cable) and you may have mixed up the ground and signal. The same is true for any colour you seem to be missing. Also do a test of the Audio Right and Left by plugging one out at a time and see do you still have sound. Any issues, the fix will be as above, re-check your wiring against the diagram and re-flow if necessary. Try the cable with a game you know well so you know how it should look colour wise. If it all looks and sounds good close it all back up and enjoy!! Note also that there is a perfectly good optical audio pcb inside the Xbox 360 head, maybe someone could have a go getting that usable. You can also connect the yellow to pin 24 and it's ground to 23 instead of connecting ground to the overall screen and leaving yellow spare if you want to have the option of using it like a regular composite AV cable like the one we butchered to make this. I rather keep it as a spare, means your cable will last long into the future and I don't ever plan on using it as a regular yellow, red and white composite.
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    Weird. lol. No idea why it would do that. I made a minor update to the initial release, if you wanna try it again and see if it works for you now.
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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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